I have a 1.8 k series freelander and after fixing a water leak into the oil through the intake manifold I still seem to be loosing water, some days the header tank shows normal and the next it's empty what gives? Is this normal or is maybe my header tank cap faulty? Any help would be appreciated.

hi

pssssssssss please go to the introduce section first

Done

could be HG - or if your lucky like i was water pump seal could be faulty.

Don't think its hg as ive paperwork to say it's been upgraded. Would there be water underneath the car as I have none ?

Been reading up on something called k seal? Any recommendations for its use?

gavmumford said:

Been reading up on something called k seal? Any recommendations for its use?

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Shake well, open it up...



And pour the contents down the sink making sure none of the contents are left to tempt you into doing something stupid

Don't use k seal ..... Do a search on it on here

Better to find the problem and fix it properly

Chris

look at your header tank does it have cracks around the top if so get a new one, also after doing you job on the engine have you bled the water system, also have you either removed the jiggle vale or taken the small hose of the header tank and blown into it to open up the jiggle valve and let water into the head .hope this helps

blue beasty said:

Shake well, open it up...



And pour the contents down the sink making sure none of the contents are left to tempt you into doing something stupid

Click to expand...

fixed my rad

jamesmartin said:

fixed my rad

Click to expand...

I imagine you could tell where the water was leaking before you just poured it in hoping to fix an unknown problem?

blue beasty said:

I imagine you could tell where the water was leaking before you just poured it in hoping to fix an unknown problem?

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i did, but id never rule it out as an option to try after going through what you can to start with

Did you drain the coolant system before taking off the inlet manifold?

How did you fix the leak - new gasket?

Did you check the jiggle valve ball bearing was free to move before you refilled the system?

Did you bleed at both points while refilling the system?

Just so we know the facts

It was done in a garage...a new gasket was fitted not sure about the system was drained fully and as for bleeding ???
What I do know is that the header tank will show normal level one Minuit then after a drive will show empty and if I undo the cap it will fill again.

gavmumford said:

I have a 1.8 k series freelander and after fixing a water leak into the oil through the intake manifold I still seem to be loosing water, some days the header tank shows normal and the next it's empty what gives? Is this normal or is maybe my header tank cap faulty? Any help would be appreciated.

Click to expand...

fill it up ,letting bleed screw run clear, take it for a quick run recheck level, ,check all hoses ,heater etc get hot ,feel rad check its hot all over core, test cap or fit new , if rad and all hoses etc get hot system is ok so you must be pressurising system ie head gasket or a leak

gavmumford said:

What I do know is that the header tank will show normal level one Minuit then after a drive will show empty and if I undo the cap it will fill again.

Click to expand...

Doesn't that imply that you're not losing water ?
If it was HG wouldn't you be getting tell tale signs on oil filler cap and in header tank ?
As already said, my trouble was header tank cracking round filler neck.

Disappearing coolant has several potential causes. Coolant bottles can have crazing or cracks around their neck underneath that yellow ringlike label.

If you HG was faulty or failing / failed you'd see evidence of coolant in the oil / on the dip stick. The oil will look like a choc / coffee milk shake. There would also be similar mayo' like goop underneath the oil filler cap.

Inlet gaskets can and do leak. use a good light / torch and a small hand mirror and carefully look below the inlet manifold where the head sits on the block. If if is faulty you may see coolant stains / colouring along the block edge of running down the block. Have a look around the head's outlet pipe where the top rad' hose connects too.

Jiggle valve: There is a small pipe which comes of the inlet manifold on the driver's side. People remove that pipe and blow through to free / check that the little ball valve inside is free.

Water pumps can leak too. Use that torch and have a look below the water pump area to check for signs of coolant staining.

Air locks in the cooling system can be a problem. There are 2 bleed screws. On below the diet' on that metal pipe which the bottom rad' hose connect to. The other is on a heater hose near the engine bay firewall.

To bleed: cold motor - remove coolant cal , top up. Heater control to HOT. start engine - idle.
carefully loosen the lower of the 2 bleed screws. When coolant comes out without any bubbles retighten it. Top up coolant bottle. Repeat with the upper of the 2 bleed screws. Top up as necessary.

Thermostats have been none to give probe's too. A bit trickier to check.

When was the cam belt done? And was the water pump and tensioner replaced then too? If the cam belt is 'due' you could use that opportunity to replace the thermostat.