Great advice thank you all... however...
Would you put loctite on the three fixing bolts on reassembly as it looks like it had some on originally?









also their torque settings?
 
Great advice thank you all... however...
Would you put loctite on the three fixing bolts on reassembly as it looks like it had some on originally?









also their torque settings?

Yes.... and also on the 4 bolts holding in the nonreturn valve bit and the diaphragm bit. Use blue/green and not red threadlock.

As for torque I have to admit I have no idea. I just torque em up enough that I'm confident the oring is nice and compressed in there and it's tight enough for the threadlock to do its thing.

Remember, it's the oring doing the work of sealing the air in, not how tightly the bolts are done up.
 
I have some great pictures on my phone regards my valve block rebuild, I cant seem to upload them onto the thread...anybody brave enough to offer advise to a technophobe!
 
I have some great pictures on my phone regards my valve block rebuild, I cant seem to upload them onto the thread...anybody brave enough to offer advise to a technophobe!

Replied on the other thread. If on a PC download Irvan View. Open picture then save as reducing the quality by maybe 25% and see what the file size is. I save the new files in a folder called ToBeUploaded.
 
BXAY8438.JPG
BXAY8438.JPG
TJGM2327.JPG
 
not sure if you can see above photo, but the top one is with new seals in, bottom one is as it came out of block.
 
I built a valve block today for Bertie wooster, its now like brand new:) . Threw in a driver box as well to help the guy get the beast back to tip top EAS status :D:D:D
He may need help guys after fitting the new valve block.I have put the brackets on it and fitted the pressure switch to the driver box to make it as easy as possible for him.
I am just a bit rusty on the tech side of things after that :) I leave the tech side to the experts amongst us :)
Thanks
Kurt :)
 
Ermmmm.... I wouldn't use those red silicon orings. I've had them before and they don't last. With proper viton ones the shortest lived rebuilt block I've done lasted 3 years, the best went to 7 which was hard for me to believe, but it did.

When I tried with the red silicon ones- this was shortly after Rover Renovations went belly up- they could barely manage a year. Could be a climate thing but for sure they don't last as long.
 
Ermmmm.... I wouldn't use those red silicon orings. I've had them before and they don't last. With proper viton ones the shortest lived rebuilt block I've done lasted 3 years, the best went to 7 which was hard for me to believe, but it did.

When I tried with the red silicon ones- this was shortly after Rover Renovations went belly up- they could barely manage a year. Could be a climate thing but for sure they don't last as long.
When I take out the one that’s in there now, I will be looking to rebuild that one too. Will be looking at other options for replacing the rings so any constructive advise welcome.
 
When I take out the one that’s in there now, I will be looking to rebuild that one too. Will be looking at other options for replacing the rings so any constructive advise welcome.
Well I reckon if you stuck with a set of good viton orings, you'll be fine. I've had them from a variety of vendors, starting with Rover Renovations to the most recent X8R and they've all been fine. It was only that batch of silicon orings which didn't seem to have the longevity of the viton ones.

It could just be as @wammers says and they're too soft for the nonreturn valves but fine everywhere else, or they could be crap everywhere, I don't know. I'd just stick to viton all round, me.
 

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