Well, I rushed the bleeding process. I started the car first, ran the system dry and then poured in the fluid. While working the steering, I had an air block. With the wheels on the ground, I tried to force the steering as it seemed stuck on full lock. I kept doing this and eventually the steering started grinding. It turned out I knackered the bearings in the box. Fortunately the company replaced the box for me. So the second time round I did it properly....
The proper way to do it is.. check everything is attached and secure. Then pour in the fluid in the reservoir. Turn the engine on and then quickly top the fluid up, keeping it on maximum level in the bottle. The fluid level will drop quickly, so keep the fluid hand to top it up. Once the fluid stabilises, leave the engine running till warm. This warms up the fluid and makes it more viscous and less likely to get an airlock. Then, connect the bleed hose (preferably non return) to the steering box. Get someone to start turning the steering wheel slowly turning it from lock to lock. Holding it on each lock for no more than a few seconds. As soon as he starts turning the wheel, unscrew the bleed valve, but only a little until the fluid starts flowing. Keep turning the wheel from lock to lock until all the bubbles have gone from the fluid. Make sure to keep the fluid level topped up. Once the fluid is clear, tighten the screw and that should be it. I left mine to settle for half an hour and came back and re bled it. It did clear out more bubbles.
Re the drag link, basically, there should be no play in the drag link and drop arm to road wheels. If you ask someone to gently move the steering wheel from side to side while your underneath the car, you can see the drop arm turn and you should be able to feel with your hands where there is play in the system. If there is play in the box, then it can be tightened, but still may need changing depending on the leak and play.
If the drop arm moves exactly as the wheel is turned, you should be able to see clearly if there is lay in the drag link. The ball joint is designed to move, but should not have too much movement in the ball joint. If you are saying that the steering wheel is moving up to 7 inches without the road wheels moving, it should be obvious to see where the issues are. But you need someone else to turn the wheel while your having a look underneath.
I hope this makes sense...
MudRat:crazy_driver: