Hard Drive · Jun 23, 2020

Having replaced the vacuum hose between the reservoir chamber (see the photo) and the Turbo Controlling Solenoid, might anyone know what the chamber is actually responsible for?
What might its internal structure consists of?
And if the hoses ( input & output) were reversed what might be the result?
I recently removed the hoses, discovering they had a very narrow id bore. I replaced the hoses, and a wider id seems to have made a difference in how the turbo reacts. Basically, it's quicker and more reactive.

3mm on the left, 4mm on the right. It may not look like much difference, but it seems to be.

The reservoir? It's internal structure is of interest to me. Maybe others too? It's possibly a damper, but what might be the repercussions, if any, if the in & out connectors were swapped over? I would especially like to know as I have done that. My reason? The replacement hose wasn't long enough. And if you don't want to do the same, buy a 1.5mtr length instead of my 1 mtr - as I did, then cut to length.
I used my Kindle to make this Thread yesterday, but my Kindle took me to Stolen Land-Rovers Forum instead. I'm on my PC now.

andyfreelandy · Jun 23, 2020

As far as I know it is a storage tank, so hollow!

Presumably the holes are set to allow sufficient vacuum to operate the turbo solenoid without emptying too quickly and causing a pause in operation.

I binned one with a broken stub, should've cut it in half. Pretty sure it is empty though.

paul99 · Jun 23, 2020

Suck and blow through the different holes using a clean silicon pipe, to see if there are any check-valves in it. If there are, then you need to connect it the correct way.

Nodge68 · Jun 24, 2020

Hard Drive said:
Turbo Controlling Solenoid, might anyone know what the chamber is actually responsible for?

It's a vacuum accumulator. It's a hollow chamber that is simply there to add volume to the vacuum circuit for the turbo control actuator. It's purpose is to stop the vacuum depleting at times of full throttle operation, thus preventing the power from dropping off after a few seconds, which it could do without the accumulator in the circuit.

andyfreelandy said:
Presumably the holes are set to allow sufficient vacuum to operate the turbo solenoid without emptying too quickly and causing a pause in operation.

This exactly.

Hard Drive · Jun 24, 2020

Thanks for your input, everyone. I'll do what you suggest Paul, as a test.

teddywood1 · Jun 24, 2020

was told by LR that the vacuum chamber has a valve inside I found this out because the pipe had been put on the back of it which was going to the turbo and it caused many problems, like put your foot down on the gas and it did not respond it would take a while to build up and you could be stuck coming out of a jumction or on a round about ,LR gave me a diagram and I decided to renew all pipes but when I came to remove the pipe from the front of the chamber I broke the little pipe that comes out now I am wishing I had kept it and cut it open

Nodge68 · Jun 24, 2020

teddywood1 said:
I was told by LR that the vacuum chamber has a valve inside

Not as far as I could tell. It's just a hollow vessel for storing vacuum. I've had to repair both pipes on mine, by fitting short lengths of copper pipe, and epoxy them in place.

I could see right through the middle, when I did that repair, so there's nothing in there but empty space.

Hard Drive · Jun 25, 2020

teddywood1 said:
I was told by LR that the vacuum chamber has a valve inside I found this out because the pipe had been put on the back of it which was going to the turbo and it caused many problems, like put your foot down on the gas and it did not respond it would take a while to build up and you could be stuck coming out of a jumction or on a round about ,LR gave me a diagram and I decided to renew all pipes but when I cam to remove the pipe from the front of the chamber I broke the little pipe that comes out now I am wishing I had kept it and cut it open

Thanks Nodge68, and I have a test result concerning the vacuum capsule. And you are absolutely correct in what you state.
1. I tested the capsule from both ends, with the opposite end to the one tested left open and disconnected.
2. Using a vacuum pump, each end proved to be the same, with air passing through unhindered.
3. I used the vacuum as well as a positive pressure on each end, and the results were the same.
4. The capsule is nothing but empty space, as said by Nodge68.
5. It doesn't matter which hose is connected to which end as they will still work as required.

So there you have it.

paul99 · Jun 25, 2020

So you could easily replace it with a metal one or an old bean can, lol.

Hard Drive · Jun 25, 2020

paul99 said:
So you could easily replace it with a metal one or an old bean can, lol.

LOL. Yes, Paul, I could... and that is really tempting. Must be stainless though. I wouldn't fit any old bean-tin to my car.

paul99 · Jun 25, 2020

My style is more of this:

Hard Drive · Jun 25, 2020

Mmm, yummy. Now you're talking. Really classy! I could just imagine an MOT engineer scratching his head at that one. lol

teddywood1 · Jul 7, 2020

Hard Drive said:
Thanks Nodge68, and I have a test result concerning the vacuum capsule. And you are absolutely correct in what you state.
1. I tested the capsule from both ends, with the opposite end to the one tested left open and disconnected.
2. Using a vacuum pump, each end proved to be the same, with air passing through unhindered.
3. I used the vacuum as well as a positive pressure on each end, and the results were the same.
4. The capsule is nothing but empty space, as said by Nodge68.
5. It doesn't matter which hose is connected to which end as they will still work as required.

So there you have it.

I really beg to differ as only last week I had a call from a friend and said my freelander td4 is in a mess I asked him what had happened he said he had someone around to do a few jobs on it including renewing the vacuum pipes and now it would not pull away quick like it used to as soon as he said that I sent him the picture I have just added showing the way the vacuum pipe goes number 8 must go to the back and number 12 that goes down to the turbo valve must go to the front I have known about half a dozen td4 where people have put the pipes the wrong way around and suffered real problems like I did.

Nodge68 · Jul 7, 2020

teddywood1 said:
I really beg to differ

You can beg to differ if you like, but there's no valve in that chamber. It's just a hollow chamber, with nothing inside but empty space.

paul99 · Jul 7, 2020

Not being au fait with vacuum/pressure behaviour, I wonder if the spacing of the inlets and outlets would create a proportioning valve effect? Although I would suspect that it should just be the same pressure all round, given same diameter tubing and inlet/outlet holes.

teddywood1 · Jul 8, 2020

Nodge68 said:
You can beg to differ if you like, but there's no valve in that chamber. It's just a hollow chamber, with nothing inside but empty space.

then I can not understand why if you connect the number 8 tube to the front and 12 to the back it will not work or is this only on the auto cars and Nodge68 I am not arguing with you

Nodge68 · Jul 8, 2020

teddywood1 said:
then I can not understand why if you connect the number 8 tube to the front and 12 to the back it will not work or is this only on the auto cars and Nodge68 I am not arguing with you

The vacuum accumulator needs to be between the vacuum pump line and turbo vacuum line. This is so the vacuum is maintained at times of sustained boost.
Unless the incorrect pipe connection puts the vacuum accumulator out of the turbo circuit. I can't see it making any difference, simply putting the pipes on the incorrect ends of the accumulator won't make any difference.

teddywood1 · Jul 11, 2020

I was in Ireland when I found there was something wrong and it got worse and worse in fact it was that bad it was going up and down the gears because of lack of vacuum but I did not know that at the time and it made my auto gearbox to go into limp mode so in the end I called the AA and they took us home a piggyback ride all the way home and it took us some 20 hours to get home because the AA insisted on sending a van out first, upon getting home I booked it into my local auto box repair place and that all they do auto boxes and they said a fault in the vacuum had caused the box to over work as it did up and down the gears because the engine was getting no vacuum , so I ordered the correct vacuum tube and the LR dealer who knows me sent me by email the diagram that I have shown , and I realised straight away what the problem was, and the confirmed that it has to go that way , so in all £800 later I learned a lesson so that is why I ask have people got the vacuum pipe the right way around as I do not want people spending like I had to ,if I can get a vacuum chamber that had it I will cut it open just to see what is in there, but last week I decided to do a vacuum test and found the pipe from the chamber was no good as with the vacuum tester and blocking the end of the pipe up it would not hold on vacuum so I binned it and replaced it with what I had brought before.

Alibro · Jul 12, 2020

Pretty much every TD4 on the road has a split in the vacuum pipe going to the EGR valve. Unless it's been replaced of course.
Could this be the cause of lower vacuum at this end of the chamber? Maybe there are several chambers in it with small holes between.

hd3 · Jul 12, 2020

.. i just took a new unit ..
attached a hose .. blew in both ends .. sucked at both ends ..
no difference either way ..
```````````````````````````````````````````````````
[ the one in car has one spigot broken
[ fixed with epoxy glue and some copper pipe
`````````````````````````````````````````````````````````````````
was half tempted to replace the old one
then cut it open to solve this debate ..
``````````
atb
~ S ~

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