jolly-109 · Mar 10, 2016

The series 3 I recently purchased has a rover V8 transplanted into it and it's been a wiring nightmare as it was never completed by the previous owner.
One of my last issues is the oil light will not go out (at all) so I have a few questions.
It looks to me that the switch is "closed" on start up and then goes open circuit when pressure is reached is this correct?
Switch is on the earth side is this correct?
Is there any way of testing the switch?
I have not changed the oil or filter and car not not really been run for a few years but does start and run fine, oil looks lovely and clean plus filter doesn't look old BUT neither does switch so I think previous owner has changed it..
Any help much appreciated as usual.

jamesmartin · Mar 10, 2016

if you have ignition on and touch the wire to earth light should come on, if you start engine with wire of switch you should have no light ,but if light comes on when you attach wire to switch you either have no oil pressure or switch is buggered, v8 oil pumps need priming with petroleum jelly if they ever empty,its worth checking you actually have any oil pressure

jolly-109 · Mar 10, 2016

OK then the wiring sounds right so its either a knackered switch or no oil pressure.
Is it possible to test the switch?
Is there a procedure for priming the pump with jelly? or a way or testing oil pressure. I have no idea what has gone on with the engine in the past but don't want to run it with "possibly no oil pressure"

jamesmartin · Mar 10, 2016

oil pressure tester to know what pressure is ,you could remove filter and see if its full and oil comes from pump whislt engines cranked
you remove pump head 6 x bihex bolts 8mm spanner size ,pack pump gears with petroleum jelly using a new gasket bolt head back on, pour as much fresh oil in filter as you can and still screw it back on

jolly-109 · Mar 10, 2016

jamesmartin said:
oil pressure tester to know what pressure is ,you could remove filter and see if its full and oil comes from pump whislt engines cranked
you remove pump head 6 x bihex bolts 8mm spanner size ,pack pump gears with petroleum jelly using a new gasket bolt head back on, pour as much fresh oil in filter as you can and still screw it back on

Thanks very much I shall have a look over the next couple of days.

waldamar · Mar 10, 2016

As above plus get a mechanical gauge [£30.00 or so] simple, reliable and will actually tell you what's going on - you don't know the engine or trust the wiring so mech. gauge will sort both......................... good luck

jolly-109 · Mar 10, 2016

waldamar said:
As above plus get a mechanical gauge [£30.00 or so] simple, reliable and will actually tell you what's going on - you don't know the engine or trust the wiring so mech. gauge will sort both......................... good luck

Is there a port to add a mechanical gauge then as it's pretty tight down there?

waldamar · Mar 10, 2016

jolly-109 said:
Is there a port to add a mechanical gauge then as it's pretty tight down there?

Depends on the filter head you've got - maybe a couple of ports, often one tucked round the side, or just use same port as switch is in at present or you may [just] have room for a tee piece, then you can have gauge and light. The mech gauge is just a union and tiny pipe, that you can bend but mustn't kink, so can fit tight places. My main objection with electrical, apart from wiring, is the switches were often set REALLY low so yes the light may go out - but if it's only a 10psi switch that's not very reassuring..................... added to which as you don't know the history of the engine - you have no idea which switch you have. Good luck
http://www.vehicle-wiring-products....pillary-type/394135c81895fc9b5783cb243c7754a5

jolly-109 · Mar 11, 2016

waldamar said:
Depends on the filter head you've got - maybe a couple of ports, often one tucked round the side, or just use same port as switch is in at present or you may [just] have room for a tee piece, then you can have gauge and light. The mech gauge is just a union and tiny pipe, that you can bend but mustn't kink, so can fit tight places. My main objection with electrical, apart from wiring, is the switches were often set REALLY low so yes the light may go out - but if it's only a 10psi switch that's not very reassuring..................... added to which as you don't know the history of the engine - you have no idea which switch you have. Good luck
http://www.vehicle-wiring-products....pillary-type/394135c81895fc9b5783cb243c7754a5

Taken your advise and ordered that gauge, not bothered about having the light as well as the gauge seems a much better idea. I will see what happens when I have fitted it. Thanks

waldamar · Mar 11, 2016

jolly-109 said:
Taken your advise and ordered that gauge, not bothered about having the light as well as the gauge seems a much better idea. I will see what happens when I have fitted it. Thanks

Now I'm worried! There is a slight possibility you'll need an adaptor bush - wont know for certain until you get your gauge - not expensive but maybe a delay - my filter head has 3 ports, all different threads!............. also the pipe will be too long and unless you're very handy with solder you can't cut it - no problem you just need to find somewhere out of the way to coil the extra............. So I hope I haven't caused you more hassle, but once done they're worth it [as are mechanical temp gauges] good luck

jolly-109 · Mar 11, 2016

waldamar said:
Now I'm worried! There is a slight possibility you'll need an adaptor bush - wont know for certain until you get your gauge - not expensive but maybe a delay - my filter head has 3 ports, all different threads!............. also the pipe will be too long and unless you're very handy with solder you can't cut it - no problem you just need to find somewhere out of the way to coil the extra............. So I hope I haven't caused you more hassle, but once done they're worth it [as are mechanical temp gauges] good luck

Don't worry I'm sure it's the right way to go in the long run just thinking now maybe I should find a T and try to fit light and gauge if I have room.
I do have another question I have stripped the pump whilst waiting and I seem to have an extra port with a spring in it but have no idea what it's for? Do you know what it's for.

I have a new "Britpart" filter but have read horror stories do you think I should order a OE one whilst I'm at it?
See pic below

jolly-109 · Mar 11, 2016

jamesmartin said:
oil pressure tester to know what pressure is ,you could remove filter and see if its full and oil comes from pump whislt engines cranked
you remove pump head 6 x bihex bolts 8mm spanner size ,pack pump gears with petroleum jelly using a new gasket bolt head back on, pour as much fresh oil in filter as you can and still screw it back on

I do have another question I have stripped the pump whilst waiting and I seem to have an extra port with a spring in it but have no idea what it's for? Do you know what it's for. Plus it looks as though the gasket is virtually missing (parts of it anyway) so I will order another if I can find the correct part number as it looks as though one gear has been rubbing.
I have a new "Britpart" filter but have read horror stories do you think I should order a OE one whilst I'm at it?

jamesmartin · Mar 11, 2016

pump housing etc4276 plus gasket err1990 isnt cheap you can get the surface lightly skimmed, just the releif valve should have a spring as below, you often get plugged holes were theyve need to machined through but one end needs to be blocked

waldamar · Mar 11, 2016

Pressure relief, as James has said, clean it up and leave alone! Many will whince at this but I just made a new gasket [probably from a cornflake packet] fine and leakfree 10 years on. A light skim a good plan but a good clean up, fresh gasket and all should be fine. I'd agree with your concerns re. filter, always get good quality - any good motor factors can cross reference filter numbers as you don't know exactly where your engine came from! Good luck - the main point of this whole excercise is you'll know the state of your engine sooner rather than later - which has to be good..........................

jolly-109 · Mar 16, 2016

waldamar said:
Pressure relief, as James has said, clean it up and leave alone! Many will whince at this but I just made a new gasket [probably from a cornflake packet] fine and leakfree 10 years on. A light skim a good plan but a good clean up, fresh gasket and all should be fine. I'd agree with your concerns re. filter, always get good quality - any good motor factors can cross reference filter numbers as you don't know exactly where your engine came from! Good luck - the main point of this whole excercise is you'll know the state of your engine sooner rather than later - which has to be good..........................

OK, new gauge fitted with T piece and pressure switch and new mechanical gauge (the one suggested) all fitted and working. Light now goes out and gauge reads around 35-40 psi (revving it in the garage). I have two questions now:-
What pressure should I get on rover v8?
When I do an oil change in the future do I have to remove oil pump and pack with vaseline again or should I be able to just fill the filter back up?

jolly-109 · Mar 16, 2016

jamesmartin said:
pump housing etc4276 plus gasket err1990 isnt cheap you can get the surface lightly skimmed, just the releif valve should have a spring as below, you often get plugged holes were theyve need to machined through but one end needs to be blocked

OK, new gauge fitted with T piece and pressure switch and new mechanical gauge all fitted and working. Light now goes out and gauge reads around 35-40 psi (revving it in the garage). I have two questions now:-
What pressure should I get on rover v8?
When I do an oil change in the future do I have to remove oil pump and pack with vaseline again or should I be able to just fill the filter back up?

jamesmartin · Mar 16, 2016

doesnt need priming when you change the oil, only when its drained back ie when stripped down or engine lent over when on the floor prior to fitting etc, its not a high oil pressure engine 30-40 is ok

jolly-109 · Mar 16, 2016

jamesmartin said:
doesnt need priming when you change the oil, only when its drained back ie when stripped down or engine lent over when on the floor prior to fitting etc, its not a high oil pressure engine 30-40 is ok

Thank you for your help.

waldamar · Mar 16, 2016

30-40 sounds healthy, is that at running temp? what revs? I've only got 30 or so hot while running[driving] down to about 15 max at tickover hot - so looking like you've got a good un. What's next with the project? Good luck

jolly-109 · Mar 17, 2016

waldamar said:
30-40 sounds healthy, is that at running temp? what revs? I've only got 30 or so hot while running[driving] down to about 15 max at tickover hot - so looking like you've got a good un. What's next with the project? Good luck

Next is to fit a speedo cable, welding on outrigger and then hopefully take it for its first MOT in over twenty years! I may need to buy some new tyres thinking about it

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