radiator
fan
alternator
powersteering pump
aircon compressor
gearbox oil cooler pipes(unbolted from block)
crank position sensor
EXHAUST MANIFOLDS
engine wiring loom
engine mounts
starter motor
drive plate bolts to torque converter
inlet manifold
coil pack
14 bell housing bolts
gas struts disconnected from bonnet
so crack on, you should be able to do it all and have the new engine back in all in a weekend working on your own
fan
alternator
powersteering pump
aircon compressor
gearbox oil cooler pipes(unbolted from block)
crank position sensor
EXHAUST MANIFOLDS
engine wiring loom
engine mounts
starter motor
drive plate bolts to torque converter
inlet manifold
coil pack
14 bell housing bolts
gas struts disconnected from bonnet
so crack on, you should be able to do it all and have the new engine back in all in a weekend working on your own
Thanks for the info, Thanks great!
I know about most of it. Do the oil cooler pipes need to be disconnected from the cooler?
So it is not possible to remove the engine with the exhaust manifolds in place then.
I have read somewhere about removing a steering arm to drop the engine allowing room to get to the top bell housing bolts? Any truth in that?
jacckk
Active Member
Look at RAVE for the procedure to remove the steering intermediate column. I removed and replaced the exhaust manifolds without removing that once and it took forever. Then when I had to replace my head gaskets I just removed it which took about 2 minutes and made removing and replacing the exhaust manifold so much easier. It's only two bolts to remove it I believe.
I did remove the intermediate shaft when I done the head gaskets, and it was a right pain to get off. I just thought looking at it there maybe room to leave the manifolds on. Though I'm not sure how far the engine has to come forward to seperate it from the gearbox.
Perfect! Thanks. Just wanted to make sure it was possible before I go getting myself into trouble.
I don't look like too much of a big job. I have done much worse engine pulls before!
