Dr_evil said:
It was broken when I got it :p starting to get a move on now though so grinder and welder are coming out as they're me favourite tools
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you said it ran when you got it?????

also it was the leads at fault, with your maths you said- and we were all wrong.

Why dont it run then?

:whoosh:


:doh: :p
 
How did I get away with that:confused:


Got my engine running but it ain't right.
Once up to temp. it struggles to accelerate with the odd back fire.
So far I have replaced fuel pump, coil, spark plugs and running off a seperate can of fresh fuel. Also sounds like it may be blowing from exhaust manifold. Hoping it's not head gasket No signs of sparks hen running in the dark and pull an ht lead and the cylinder will drop.
(Lumination ignition)


I thinking clean the carbs, check the gasket & dashpot oil. How do I check the vacum advance is ok? And I guess pressure test cylinders.
 
How do I test the vacuum advance. I took the pipe of the carb and sucked onit but nothing happended inside the dizzy. I expected to see it move. Does that mean it's F*****d or will that not be enough? In which case what is the tool I nee to borrow a vacuum gauge is it?
 
I can't say I noticed. But when I'm back home I will pay more attention. If it is the vacuum, how do I tell which model of dizzy it is I have? I don't see any markings on it.
 
No suction against my tongue, nor does the advance mech move when sucking.

Still don't see any writing on it.

Has anybody replaced a vacuum advance before. Just wondering if there are any tips.
 
I took the first Stromberg off. Diaphragm seems ok. Bowl was clean.
2nd carb removed this morning, and diaphragm also looks ok. yet to remove the bowl.
Whilst it's off I just blow through the fuel lines.

I don't have a fuel return system fitted. Why would this be? what is the advantage / disadvantage?
I was also told to be using thinner oil in the dashpots. I put in the engine oil 20w50.

I thought seeing as i'm at it i'd take of the rocker cover to give it a good clean, maybe a paint. My god what aload of crud was stuck to the inside. Carb cleaner melted it, or with a wire brush it would flake off. Just wondering if it is normal and what it is doing to the engine. Picture to follow....

I haven't got a replacment vacuum - I have been told that as my dizzy was once a points system the vacuum would be about £45 not the off the shelf products shown on fleabay by Powerspark and Ignitionland. For £90 I could get a complete dizzy with internal electrics. So that would leave me with a spare lumination system.

Carb set up:
IMG-20130306-00988_zps099c6953.jpg


Under the rocker cover
IMG-20130306-00993_zpsab970a91.jpg

IMG-20130306-00996_zps8f064038.jpg
 
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The rocker barbecue is not uncommon unfortunately, and if that pic is before cleaning, then it isn't that bad.

Multiple clean outs will sort it, ideally take the sump off so the **** falls out the bottom if the engine and then generally rinse the cam area/valley down with cleaner before refitting the sump which itself will need cleaning out for sludge.

Give it a spin over for a little while on the starter before connecting the igntion so it doesn't run until its got a bit of lube about.

A steam clean to the exterior always helps aswell.

In fact just clean the #### out of it from top to bottom and it'll make you're life easier!
 
Cheers Mr N. That puts my mind to rest a bit.
I guessing all the deposits are down to lack of maintanence, (in my defence previous owners, the first thing was an oil & filter change when i got it 10 month ago) I know the engine itself needed a good clean, but didn't realise the inside was so bad. luckily to justify the paddocks shipping I bought a sump gasket. Another line on the todo list.
 
ive allways thought v8s could benefit from higher detergent oil , diesel oil has other advantages too like zinc etc
 
Are you losing sparks under pressure? Try running it up in the dark and spraying the leads with a squirty bottle of water (the finer the spray the better) if its leads you will see the sparks jump to earth.

Have you got the right coil for the luminition kit? i got one on my mini and it stated i had to have a 3ohm or less coil for it to work properly. Is your coil any good regardless?

Have you tried statically setting the timing about right?
 
When I ran it in the dark, there wasn't any sparks or tracking to be seen. Allbeit I didn't spray with a mister.
No idea on the coil, It didn't alter the performance.
As the vacuum advance is away, the carbs would be drawing extra air through it. I can suck fresh air though it.

Timing to be done this weekend.
 
I had a pretty successful day and can now conlude;

1. My compression tester is faulty. It gave radings of 50psi. Borrowed my mates and lowest reading was 180 with highest at 200. So it must be a high compression engine or someone done some tweeking.
2. Blowing at the manifold, is a craked exhaust manifold. BO5068 is on the casting. Does anybody know a part number?
3. Carbs are the later type of CD175, which doesn't have an adjustable jet. And only one carb sports the cold start ,mech which feeds 2nd carb with additional fuel.
3. The timing advance / retard is seized. And hence the whole timing was well out at tickover. Rotate the dizzy a few degrees and all is working ok.:D
4. No idea to why the setup doesn't have a fuel return.

So on the lookout for a replacment left hand exhaust manifold.
Ineed to get a new vacuum, but I would proably by a complete dizzy with electic ign.
 
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