M

Milesm

New Member
Hi,

I've just replaced the head gasket, thermostat, oil, blead rad etc. It had its first run lastnight 2 miles and the temp guage seem to go up quick. So i turned on the heater, lovely hot air, but i was expecting the needle to sit around the middle of the gauge. The car has been sat around for about 2 months.

Im going to double check oil and coolant levels and also check firing order.

Any other suggestions?
 
could be a long list..
air lock, ####ed rad, ####ed viscus, ####ed thermostant, warped head, head bolts not done up right, ####ed water pump, leak past the head gasket.. sure theres more
 
If the temp dosent go above 3/4 and holds steady you should be fine (thats were mine sits)
When the engine is hot (at 3/4) you should be able to hear and feel air being drawn through the rad, Turn off your engine and the viscous fan should be stiff/ locked up, if not it will be faulty and not cooling properly,

Allso is your engine geting hot or is it just your guage
 
Don't panic yet if you only put it back together and ran it last night, and for only 2 miles. There's lots of air to burp out and it takes a while for the coolant system to settle down again.

When I put mine back together it got hotter quickly, then I needed to top up the coolant, then it went down again and hot again etc. etc. After a few runs and a lot of standing idling while tuning etc. the coolant level is constant and the temp gauge sits where it was before the rebuild.

Just keep an eye on your coolant, top it up if necessary, and see what happens. Should be fine though.

If there was a major problem there would be smoke issues from the exhaust. Also, if you are worried, check your spark plugs to see what's going on in the cylinders.
 
Last edited:
I've let it run and there's moisture building up in the oil, F*~k!
I torqued the heads to factory setting but if its still allowing coolant through. if the heads are warped then crap and the same if the liners slipped. but since I used the old heads bolts there might have been some stretch, would over torqueing the bolts sort it and how much to torque by?
 
Does the top hose go rock hard? Normal to be firm, just not rock hard. (When up to temp).

When you say moisture building up in the oil, how much? Perfectly natural to get a bit of mayo under the oil filler cap during the first few runs. Especially after a rebuild and especially after it's been sitting for a while. There is naturally moisture in oil from the atmosphere which is burned off and out during use, again, don't panic unless it's major.

Not ideal re-using head bolts, although they're not the stretch type so should be ok.

The important question is does it run ok? Is it running rough? Down on power? If not, and the top hose isn't rock hard, just keep driving/running it and topping up fluids as needed. All should settle down.

Instantly banging on about slipped liners etc. is ridiculous and scare mongering. Lets check the basics first. As has been said, the 3.5s VERY RARELY suffer from slipped liners or block trouble.
 
Last edited:
You must log in or register to reply here.

Similar threads

B
Freelander 2 (LR2) Freelander 2 coolant issues
Replies
6
Views
238
GrumpyGel
GrumpyGel
P7XES
Disco 3 coolant over spilling
2
Replies
21
Views
1K
P7XES
P7XES
G
300Tdi coolant issue
Replies
2
Views
400
GilesHarrison
G
Bustrucket
Disco 2 Td5 Overheating
Replies
3
Views
607
johnlad
johnlad
Bife
Freelander 1 Oil Cooler
2
Replies
28
Views
1K
Bife
Bife