Ok so got it back again from the garage, the reason for the loss of water was that the mechanic that changed the engine put a hose too close to the crank shaft (i think that's what the second mechanic said) which cut a hole in the hose. Took it for a drive. Then off to work (26 miles away) then loss of power and would not start straight away. Finally got it to work 2 hours late. With it cutting out 7 times in the process. Got it home. Took it to a 3rd mechanic and I thought of was the fuel pump.
And not to my surprise it was the fuel pump in the tank. Now its been cleaned out.
I have not picked up the car yet. So i will run it over the weekend to see if anymore problems can arise.

As much as I like the V6 its like most women in my life. Takes me for a ride and a lot if money. Lol

Thanks for all the replies and knowledge. Will keep updating ( the next might be 1 gallon of petrol and match)
 
Old thread revival time.
This little fault has reappeared, only it's got worse.
It appeared after I'd rounded a sharp right turn that climbs rapidly. This makes the car lurch quite violently. I got stuck behind a lorry so didn't get a chance to open the taps. I did feel the engine surge a few times though. I had to turn left onto another road, as I did, I felt the steering stiffen so I looked at the dash. The rev counter was showing zero Rpm and the ignition lights were on. So obviously the engine had stalled, this is a new fault, it's spluttered a few times after this same lurching turn but never stopped altogether.
So I'm after your opinions please.
The fuel level wasn't particularly low, somewhere between 1/4 and 1/8 of a tank.
The ECU hasn't logged any faults which makes fault diagnosis very tricky.
 
When you say the engine stalled, did it actually stop running? If it didn't but it lost power then it must have slowed down then picked up. That would account for power steering loss temporally. Loss of electrical power would effect the auto.

I would be thinking about ignition switch and fuse/relay contact connections causing problems. You would hope the battery were happily charged so it would support the temporary loss/engine loading when the alternator power output dropped with the engine revs.

Just a guess.
 
I was just coasting along down a gentle hill as I was taking the next left turn. It's a sharp left so slow progress is needed.
I didn't notice the engine had stopped running until I turned the wheel and felt it had no power assistance. The ignition lights were all ablaze.
The engine had stalled but restarted with the first turn off the key.
It spluttered a couple of times as I pulled away after the restart. I then joined the A30 which is duel carriageway. I accelerated to 70 and cruised at that for 2 miles before pulling off at the next off slip. I drove down a B road for another mile before the engine spluttered again. I was stopping at this point to pick up my kids from school. After I started up again to set off home the engine was spluttering and hunting about as I turned the car round. I set off home down another B road and the engine missed a couple of beats but was otherwise ok again. I put 3 gallons of fuel in just in case the fuel gauge is miss reading. I gave it some beans on the last mile to home and it ran faultlessly.
All I can think of is a fuel supply problem or fuel surge from the earlier roller coaster corner. It's spluttered several times briefly after that particular corner but up until now has always cleared quickly.
 
Last edited:
Interesting. I guess we need to use guess logic on this. From what I know the only way the engine would stall is if

the gearbox played up (wrong gear or excess loading)
the fool supply was duff (fool, pressure, filter blocked)
the electric power dropped causing the computer to blip
lack of air supply to engine
a sensor played up causing the normal orchestration of the engine/system to fail

No error codes is very unfair. If you drive down the road and steer side to side can you get it to happen again?
 
Hippo said:
Interesting. I guess we need to use guess logic on this. From what I know the only way the engine would stall is if

the gearbox played up (wrong gear or excess loading)
the fool supply was duff (fool, pressure, filter blocked)
the electric power dropped causing the computer to blip
lack of air supply to engine
a sensor played up causing the normal orchestration of the engine/system to fail

No error codes is very unfair. If you drive down the road and steer side to side can you get it to happen again?
Click to expand...

I've had what feels like fuel surge before. That's the original reason for this thread.
It does feel like the fuel supply is to blame.
If I'm going quickly around this particular corner, sometimes the engine seems to die a couple of hundred yards later. It just looses power for a few seconds. After a few seconds, power is restored and it's a way again.
This time I was in a hurry and rounded this particular corner quickly. However once round this corner I got behind a slow moving lorry up the hill. I just plodded along behind it. I didn't notice any lack of power but I wasn't exactly using any power ether.
I continued to follow this slow lorry until I needed to turn left, it's then I noticed that the engine wasn't running. The 100 yards before I turned was down hill and the V6 is so quiet at 30 Mph, I didn't even notice it had stalled.
No codes is a pain. I'll have to experiment with chucking is round corners to see if it does it again.
 
is the pump same as rover 75 in tank as I know that I've fitted clips from rover to cure fuel pump issues with with seperating.
 
Ok there's a new development. Today I'm having to do the school run as the wife is away. I drove the 8 miles to my eldest daughters school. While unloading her bags I left the engine running. I got back onto the car, selected D and didn't move. Looked at the dash, rev counter on zero and warning lights on. So it had cut out again. Tried to start the engine, nothing happened, didn't even crank. Remembered that I'd selected D :doh: I then selected P and started the engine no problem. I drove the 6 miles to drop off my youngest daughter at her school, the engine behaved it's self although it did appear down on power up one hill, the box even dropped down a gear. Otherwise the remainder of the journey was ok.
I then set off on my 10 mile commute. The engine ran ok until I hit some traffic. A couple of times, as I pulled away I the engine drop out for a couple of beats before pulling away.
Whatever this fault is, it's getting worse and appears more evident when the engine is hot.
Thinking about it, the engine had been feeling sluggish when hot for some time. I put it down to high intake temps, but now I'm wondering if something is breaking down when hot.
The MIL isn't lighting and there's still no codes logged.
I've got a new CAS which I'm going to fit but I can't think what else could be causing this fault.
 
If fool delivery were a problem you would think it would cut out at hgigher revs, when demand for fool is greater.
 
could be electrical....
I had corroded contacts under the engine bay fusebox - every now and again it would cut out.... turn engine off and back on - fixed (until nexttime).
 
The Mad Hat Man said:
could be electrical....
I had corroded contacts under the engine bay fusebox - every now and again it would cut out.... turn engine off and back on - fixed (until nexttime).
Click to expand...
This is something I will check. I can't see it being a sensor as the ECU isn't throwing a code.
 
Hippo said:
If fool delivery were a problem you would think it would cut out at hgigher revs, when demand for fool is greater.
Click to expand...

The pump runs continually when the engine is running. Pressure is controlled by a valve in the pump body.
I feel sure that ether the pump is failing intermittently or its supply is being interrupted. I'll check under the fuse box as per MHM post.
 
DEFINITELY electrical, AND fuel delivery related. You are on the right track. I would start by cleaning all contacts in the electrical box under the hood, with special attention to the fuel pump relay. Once that's sorted out, and the problem persists, I'd move onto the fuel tank/pump/filter. Something in the fuel delivery system is loose, and loses the contact as the vehicle leans into the corner.
 
If you take the engine fuse box apart squeeze all the connectors together like I did recently on another fred.

Yer could always swop R1 fool pump relay in the engine bay fuse box for R4 sunroof relay in the fuse box under the steering wheel. I think they're the same.
 
Hippo said:
If you take the engine fuse box apart squeeze all the connectors together like I did recently on another fred.

Yer could always swop R1 fool pump relay in the engine bay fuse box for R4 sunroof relay in the fuse box under the steering wheel. I think they're the same.
Click to expand...

I plan to take the fuse box apart. I'm looking out your thread now.
I've swapped the relay already, it made no difference.
The search will continue. The car behaved on the way home from work today.
 
With yer Freelander stationary on tick over whack the engine bay fuse box several times to see if it cuts out.
 
The Mad Hat Man said:
if yu can get a few 12v low watt (led) lights on flying leads, yu can use them to have a visual indicator of voltage status. if one of the lights changes status when the symptoms happen, yo got your problem area.

Buy Indicators RS 8mm Prominent, Green LED Panel Mount Indicator, Lead Wires, 12V dc RS Q8PP3BXXG12 online from RS for next day delivery.
Click to expand...

I'm going to rig up that kind of thing. An LED on the fuel pump live will give me an indication if the pump feed is interrupted for any length of time.
I had a similar indicator system wired permanently to the VIS motors on my ZS180. I'm thinking of installing a similar thing on Freelander too' that's a different project though.
Getting the thing to run without randomly cutting out it my current priority.
 
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