I you look at this nice picture from Hippo (Thanks Hippo!) I highlighted in yellow what I am guessing based on that pdf will be were the line pressure tester needs to be attached.

550-750 kPa or 80-109 psi is what is expected.

The good news seems like this test can be done with transmission in car. I would not expect a dealer to be able to do this, but a transmission specialist might.

Or if Hippo or someone else has another has a second transmission kicking around, we could get the measurement of that bolt and source the fitting and pressure tester to do that test ourselves.
 

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This appears to be a tester for this. (Note I never used one, I just googled for it)

ATD-5550 - Automatic Transmission and Engine Oil Pressure Tester - ATD Tools, Inc.

ATD-5550
Automatic Transmission and Engine Oil Pressure Tester

  • Checks oil pressure in automatic transmissions and gasoline engines
  • Tests major model domestic and foreign cars and light trucks
  • More accurate than dashboard oil pressure gauges
  • 6 ft. of nitrile (oil proof) hose to make testing easier
  • Standard and metric fittings
  • 2-1/2" gauge has dual scale dial with ranges from 0–300 psi and 0–21 BAR
  • ATD-5551 Replacement Oil Pressure Gauge for ATD-5550

US$35 here (there most be equivalent in the UK)
Amazon.com: ATD Automatic Transmission & Engine Oil Pressure Tester: Automotive
 
Wow you have been busy!
That's a lot to get my head around - I'll try to absorb as much as I can.

I got home too late tonight to measure the sensors, but I think I measured them when I did the solenoids. I can't be sure so I'll definitely try again.

I spoke with the LR Stealer in Taunton today who was actually pretty helpful.
From the symptoms he seems to think it's a clutch band (?) on the way out and he doubts that there will be any codes to read, but he will do so if I really want for an hour's labour (probably about £100 + vat).

If it is a clutch problem, it's probably curtains for the car. There's too much else wrong with it to hand over the cash for a transplant.
But, when the fault started it happened very suddenly and it certainly hasn't got any worse since, so to me it seems more like a breakage than wear. But what do I know?

Tiring day but I'll get back to it tomorrow.

Thanks for all your help so far! Your enthusiasm is very motivating :)
 
Lets not pay for code reading at this point I suggest.

since this happened suddenly, I am thinking either the sensor wires corroded (which you will be able to test soon) or a solenoid is sticking, especially since this is not happening after car ignition restart.

I will look on the VW forums for the 09A (their version of this transmission, uses the exact same solenoids) and find out which ones commonly stick.

I will wait for your update.
 
Any updates on this ? I have found that solenoids can fail mechanically but still test fine electrically so I wanted to know the results of your current test before going there
 
Sorry haven't had a chance yet.
Got home late again yesterday (flat tyre) and it was raining when I got home tonight.
I will check and update as soon as I can - your assistance is appreciated! :)
 
Hi Bukko
Joined this thread a bit late, what are the symptoms of your gearbox fault, possibly they are the same as mine.
Thanks Ianda12
 
ianda12 said:
Hi Bukko
Joined this thread a bit late, what are the symptoms of your gearbox fault, possibly they are the same as mine.
Thanks Ianda12
Click to expand...

Ok...

No MIL or error codes via a standard OBDii reader. Don't have access to a Hawkeye or similar.
When I first start the car, the gear changes are fine for roughly 5 minutes.
Then the changes become rough, in every gear except in/out of neutral.
If I stop and switch the ignition off and back on, the changes become smooth again for another 5 minutes or so.
One strange thing I have noticed is that kickdown is always smooth, but changing down due to deceleration is very rough. I avoid this be shifting into neutral before slowing down.

What do I mean by rough changes?
1-2 = thump from gearbox, sometimes takes 1 - 1.5 seconds for the revs to pick up
2-3 = noticeable hickup, i.e. car weight shifts forward then backward, ending in a thump, hard to tell where from
3-4 = thump from rear diff
4-5 = same as 4, not as violent

Before you ask, I haven't tried it with the propshaft off - I ruled this out because of the switch off/on thing.
 
Hi
Sounds very similar to mine.
Changing up 2-3 the car engine brakes hard for a second then picks up .
Changing down 3-2 it engine brakes very violently for a second, so much so that I can't make the car slow as much doing an emergency stop with the brakes.
This is why I wondered if its possible for an auto box to change into another gear before disengaging the one its in, so momentarily being in two gears and locking the box solid.
Thanks
 
Right
I checked the resistances for the solenoids as per Hippo's utube video from the gearbox ECU and all the solenoid readings were O.K.
Three of the sensors were O.K. but the 'Vehicle speed sensor' was open circuit.
To check the wiring I undid the barrel connector(C0932), pulled the cable up a bit and checked from there. The solenoids were O.K. but all four of the sensors are now open circuit.
Put everything back together and tested the car, drove a mile up and down the road and everything seems fine.
Decided I must of broken some wires between the barrel connector and the gearbox whilst moving it, so threaded the connector up to bonnet level, cut of the plastic ribbed cable protector and checked the continuity of the wires from pins 1,2,3 & 4 to just before they go into the gearbox. The wires are O.K. and the sensors/wires are open circuit in the gearbox, but the car is driving fine.
I don't think I have fixed my origonal problem but as it was intermittent I will have to wait and see.
Does anyone know if the gearbox ECU is clever enough to realise the sensor readings are crap and substitute some fail safe readings ? (or got any other ideas :confused:)
 
I didn't get round to rechecking the sensors - a question of time and convenient weather!

But, I drove it to London and back yesterday and part-way through the journey it seemed to have fixed itself, so I tried it around London without the usual switching to neutral every time I slowed down, and it was still good.

Tried it again today, drives perfect!
Feel so much better about the car now. Will probably try to get all the other issues resolved :)
 
zefrench said:
Glad to hear. If it changes I still have my notes on where we left off here.
Click to expand...

Thanks for all your research, it's all very useful stuff :)

(Now I just need to sort my low range power issues - might just be dirty VIS valves)
 
It seems I'm not out of the woods yet.

Went to drive home this evening and the gearbox wouldn't engage properly until it had warmed up a bit.
Seemed like it was slipping in first gear, i.e. very little drive regardless of revs and not changing up.

Then after a few minutes it was fine, no problems at all!

Does this seem like a clutch band?
 
Read the posts from Vertuas in this thread, it seems to match your issue:

http://www.landyzone.co.uk/lz/f9/auto-box-jumping-gear-shift-solenoid-problem-234331.html

This also matches this technical info:
http://atsg.com/atsg/facebook/12-24.pdf


The most common sticking Solenoids on the 09A are (I added the LR partnumbers)
04 Jetta w/ 09A won't shift until ATF is warm - TDIClub Forums

THT500030 - N92 - Shift solenoid valve C
THT500080 - N93 - Line pressure duty solenoid valve
THT500050 - N283 - 2-4 brake duty solenoid valve




I see you already changed line pressure solenoid anyway, so I would suggest changing the "THT500050 - N283 - 2-4 brake duty solenoid valve " First, and N282 2nd (since it is not one to "stick")


I look forward to your thoughts.
 

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Last edited:
zefrench said:
Read the posts from Vertuas in this thread, it seems to match your issue:

http://www.landyzone.co.uk/lz/f9/auto-box-jumping-gear-shift-solenoid-problem-234331.html

This also matches this technical info:
http://atsg.com/atsg/facebook/12-24.pdf


The most common sticking Solenoids on the 09A are (I added the LR partnumbers)
04 Jetta w/ 09A won't shift until ATF is warm - TDIClub Forums

THT500030 - N92 - Shift solenoid valve C
THT500080 - N93 - Line pressure duty solenoid valve
THT500050 - N283 - 2-4 brake duty solenoid valve




I see you already changed line pressure solenoid anyway, so I would suggest changing the "THT500050 - N283 - 2-4 brake duty solenoid valve " First, and N282 2nd (since it is not none to "stick")


I look forward to your thoughts.
Click to expand...

Thanks mate you are a flippin' hero :)
 
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