whiperx

whiperx

Member
Hi everyone,

I'm new to Landyzone but hoping someone with much greater knowledge than me can help !

Recently bought a 2003 Freelander 1 V6 (yes I know, what a plank). 65k on the clock with service history up to 46k, no evidence of any major work completed though. Bought it cheap (with the overheating issue) with the intention to fix !

So, here's what happens and what I've done so far;

Starts up fine, running a bit lumpy (showing a misfire on cylinder 2), runs for about 10/15 mins on idle and then starts to boil over in the expansion tank.
Bottom radiator hose seems freezing (not sure if that's normal and the rad is working as it should). Also hooked it up to a live data feed and it's showing that coolant temp reaches 97 degrees (fans don't kick in) when the boiling begins.

So far, since I've owed it I've replaced the following:
Expansion tank and Cap
Thermostat
Coolant temp sensor
Various breather pipes and hoses

Still the same issue persists after all the above. Also the system has been bleed numerous times and to the letter as far as the workshop manual states.

Any ideas ? :confused:

Forgot to mention too that when I last ran the car (while waiting for it to overheat :)) I noticed the exhaust downpipe glowing red hot, surely that isn't normal :confused:
 
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water pump fins broke ???????

maybe there broke which in turn means the fluid is not getting pushed around the engine like it should so of course will boil over ?

also check the engine bleed bolt to make sure no air lock
 
Water pump was a possibility but seems like water is flowing round the system, could the new stat be faulty ? I didn't test it before it was fitted :5biamwithstupid:
 
When it's running, turn your heater on. It should give you an indication of whether or not your pump is working or if you have a bubble in the cooling lines. Heat=good. Cold=bad.
 
When you say the eggsource pipe is glowing red hot at the front... mine have turned orange/pink. They stay this colour when cold. Not sure what colour they were from new.

The coolant system needs to be pressurised when hot, to stop the coolant boiling. If yer has a leak then it won't be pressurised which is bad news.

Does it loose coolant?
Is the large coolant pipe at the top of the radiator in front of the engine soft when it's cold, and hard when it's hot? If not then yer has a leak.

Typical leaks are coolant in the v of the engine or passenger foot well when the heater matrix leaks.

cgqcYv2.jpg

coolingv6 cgqcYv2
 
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Thanks for the info Hippo, I'll check the passenger footwell. But doesn't really loose coolant, well not that's noticeable anyway. But yeah, my top rad pipe is soft when cold and hard when hot.

As for the exhaust, I mean actually red hot when it's running, looks like it's just pre first cat at the front, so hoping that's not goosed !
 
whiperx said:
Here's a pic of what I mean on the glowing exhaust :eek:
Click to expand...

Was the glowing manifold after a run or just when it was idling?
If after a run then it's completely normal for the whole manifold to glow for the first couple of feet. The KV6 is thermally very efficient, so the heat not absorbed by the engine goes down the exhaust instead. The cats use this heat to convert the CO into to CO2 so it's not wasted.
I glowing at idle, I still don't see an issue provided it's just at the collector. If one manifold runner was glowing while the others weren't, it suspect a leaking exhaust valve.
 
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It was actually idling at the time, saw it glowing here as in the pic but also at the rear (again looks like pre-cat). So is this ok or have I got another problem?
 
whiperx said:
It was actually idling at the time, saw it glowing here as in the pic but also at the rear (again looks like pre-cat). So is this ok or have I got another problem?
Click to expand...

I've seen the manifolds glowing many times. If you ever see the manifold while the car is on a dyno, they glow bright orange!!
Glowing at idle at the collector is, I'd say normal.
 
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Pressure test the whole cooling system. Also pressure test the new cap. I kid you not tons of new caps are faulty from factory and the freelander v6 need a cooling system with no pressure leaks. I look forward to your replies.
 
Right, after much checking and testing (elsewhere in the engine bay) I decided to pressure test my "new" expansion tank cap !!! It's defective FFS !!! I bought it only a week ago, genuine LR part , do they not test these before selling em ! Anyway, it start venting at 10psi, so isn't working as it should, I'll have to get another one !
 
whiperx said:
Right, after much checking and testing (elsewhere in the engine bay) I decided to pressure test my "new" expansion tank cap !!! It's defective FFS !!! I bought it only a week ago, genuine LR part , do they not test these before selling em ! Anyway, it start venting at 10psi, so isn't working as it should, I'll have to get another one !
Click to expand...


This is why I say to test the caps. I look forward to your replies.
 
Well, I'm hoping my overheating issues are now sorted :banana:

Fitted my new cap, ran the engine for about 20 minutes, even went out for a spin and no issues, heat from the blowers, no bubbling ! Coolant temp got up to 111c too and my jet engine fans were going like the clappers !

One problem on my run out, the bloody HDC failure warning came on ! So gonna have to look at that now, along with the misfire on cylinder 2 and the O2 sensor fault !!!! Oh well, keeps me busy :rolleyes:
 
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