ok.. this post is all about "I"..... eye eye eye eye eye....
I have just refitted a new(er) engine and new LUK clutch and DTMF into my TD4 (2003) Freebie.
I haven't started it up yet... but.. (from experience..... which wasn't good)
I have fitted a new LUK Slave Cylinder
Fitted a new Bearmach Master (because they are easy to change when they fail)
I'm dreading firing it up for the first time, to put my foot on the clutch and have no pedal.
so...
in simple terms...
what is the best way to bleed this flaming thing (if I need to)
Previous experience....
New Slave (but not brilliant quality)
New Master Cylinder
fired engine up and put my foot on the clutch.... couldn't even get the car into gear....crunch grind crunch....
I ripped the engine out and found loads of float on the crank shaft.... hence a new engine.... LUK Cylinder... etc.etc.etc.
I will post my update tomorrow night, but wondered what the correct bleeding procedure was.
some are vaccum bleeding.
some are fitting a one way valve and traditionally bleeding.
I will initially try traditionally bleeding by pulling the clutch pedal top the top (if I need to bleed it)
I'm hoping someone has done the bleeding of the concentric clutch and can give some great ideas.
Thanks In Adv. Guys.

Pressure or vacuum bleeding is preferable TBH. It's difficult to get the air out system otherwise.

Thanks Nodge...
funny.... the engine purred like a kitten, very smooth... the clutch pedal was to the floor initially... I lifted it with my foot and had a full pedal
all 3... yes... 3 gears engaged perfectly...... but..... looking at the gearbox today, I have lost 5th and Reverse.
I tried to engage gears by moving the selector mechanism on the gbox after the rods were disconnected, but the shaft would not push INTO the box..
after swearing at it.... I have a low mileage box coming tomorrow with full gear linkage....

Still needs a little bit of bleeding.... will vacuum bleed it today...
Cheers Guys,