Don't get me wrong, I think you're all cnuts...


Downsey, this is sarcasm, lightly disguised as banter. You cock.
 
I'll have a pint of the strongest larger ya got mate, I'm gona get ****ed now as I aint gotta get up in the morn:D
 
I am all for a laugh and if asking for a bit of advice from people in the know was wrong so be it, what you failed to see mate was sarcasm and banter on my part, I took the opportunity to have a laugh with your comment and you appear to have taken it personal. ........for that I TRULY apologise. Ta he
 
I am all for a laugh and if asking for a bit of advice from people in the know was wrong so be it, what you failed to see mate was sarcasm and banter on my part, I took the opportunity to have a laugh with your comment and you appear to have taken it personal. ........for that I TRULY apologise. Ta he

Oh dear........this is sounding familiar :eek:

Anyone recognize 'You give it but cant take it back mate!' :doh::doh:

Go and fit a new clutch cable :rolleyes:
 
Clutch shouldn't use ANY fluid. Check the unions and if there's no sign of a leak then the seals in the master or slave cylinder are on there way out


It will APPEAR to use fluid as the clutch plate wears.

This is because the slave cylinder never returns quite as far as the clutch linings wear away.

Just thought I'd mention it.

TOP TIP (This is a beezer)

top up the reservoir HALF WAY only.

Then nip under the car and press the slave cylinder piston back in slowly.
The fluid level in the reservoir should rise. If it does, great.

Shove the slave piston all the way in. Now get your mate VERY SLOWLY to press the clutch pedal down, and keep an eye on the fluid level. You stay under and make sure the pushrod stays where it should be.

Your mate does the pedal up and down a few times, topping up as required and CARAMBA!
Nine times out of ten perfect clutch and no bleeding needed.

This is a secret - don't tell anyone.

CharlesY
 
It will APPEAR to use fluid as the clutch plate wears.

This is because the slave cylinder never returns quite as far as the clutch linings wear away.

Just thought I'd mention it.

TOP TIP (This is a beezer)

top up the reservoir HALF WAY only.

Then nip under the car and press the slave cylinder piston back in slowly.
The fluid level in the reservoir should rise. If it does, great.

Shove the slave piston all the way in. Now get your mate VERY SLOWLY to press the clutch pedal down, and keep an eye on the fluid level. You stay under and make sure the pushrod stays where it should be.

Your mate does the pedal up and down a few times, topping up as required and CARAMBA!
Nine times out of ten perfect clutch and no bleeding needed.

This is a secret - don't tell anyone.

CharlesY
how does that work if as clutch plate wears clutch fingers go out toward release bearing ,pushing more on bearing
 
how does that work if as clutch plate wears clutch fingers go out toward release bearing ,pushing more on bearing


Exactly so James, in the Landie that is correct.

The fluid should in fact rise as the clutch wears.

Funny thing is, it never does.

One wonders where the fluid goes.

The reverse flush "bleeding" works well in almost every case of the fluid getting too low.
 
I now have this problem however its come on quickly so suspect a leak. Away for a few days so will hit it at the weekend. Will take all these tips onboard.

For ref: my clutch was fine this morning. Now to the floor. Limped home.
 
Sorted. Bled system (black), push rod had slight kink in it, refilled, pumped, let it settle then again til no change. Spot on now. Next job...:)
 

Similar threads