James2

James2

Member
I'm replacing the N/S drag link end. In order to make my ball joint splitter fit I had to hacksaw the bolt at the point of the clip hole on the thread. I could then get the splitter in and split apart the joint. So far so good. However, I cannot remove the track rod end, despite penetrating oil etc So, as I have to replace the bushes in the damper, I decide to remove the entire rod and damper. Having removed the damper, I take the castlated nut off the steering box end of the drag link, fit the splitter, apply pentrating oil and start to turn. It was so stuck, that the ball joint splitter broke before the joint came apart!

So I am no stuck, I cannot put it back together and I cannot take it apart! It doesn't help that this is our only car and I need to pick my wife up in four hours.... suggestions?
 
I should have made it clear that I was only removing the drag link to put it into a vice, I don't have a new one.
 
Before you even think about splitters, remove the nut and give the arm where the taper goes three or four good lamps with a club hammer. Often it will pop out, if not it will soften it up for the splitter.

When it has popped, pry the slots in the bar open, and spray fluid in, you should be able to unscrew the TREs. It is highly likely you will need to get new TREs.
 
James2 said:
I'm replacing the N/S drag link end. In order to make my ball joint splitter fit I had to hacksaw the bolt at the point of the clip hole on the thread. I could then get the splitter in and split apart the joint. So far so good. However, I cannot remove the track rod end, despite penetrating oil etc So, as I have to replace the bushes in the damper, I decide to remove the entire rod and damper. Having removed the damper, I take the castlated nut off the steering box end of the drag link, fit the splitter, apply pentrating oil and start to turn. It was so stuck, that the ball joint splitter broke before the joint came apart!

So I am no stuck, I cannot put it back together and I cannot take it apart! It doesn't help that this is our only car and I need to pick my wife up in four hours.... suggestions?
Click to expand...
Try placing a hammer or some such object on one side of the steering arm to brace and support it and then giving the other side a good whack or two with another hammer. The shock breaks it loose. I've never used a splitter before, always the whack and go method.
 
Hi Turboman, thanks for this. I have a new draglink end. But do I really stand any chance of getting the other end free - if it is in so tight that it broken the spilter?
 
Two hammers, use one as an anvil and hit around the socket of the ball joint at 90° to the line of the bolt.

Sometimes takes a while but it will just drop out.
 
End is out. Which was easier than I thought it might be. Damper is off too. Is there anything I can do to service the damper whilst it is out? I am replacing the bushes. Or is it a seal item? Slip on the drag link end thread and all bolts/nuts I assume on reassembly. What about in the actual cone of the link arm etc where the ball joint goes in, slip here to make it easy next time?

James
 
Crap... just putting it all together and I find that that bloody ball joint splitter has buggered up the thread on the drop arm ball joint, meaning I cannot the castellated nut back on. Any suggestions? It looks like the thread shaft has actually bent!
 
James2 said:
Crap... just putting it all together and I find that that bloody ball joint splitter has buggered up the thread on the drop arm ball joint, meaning I cannot the castellated nut back on. Any suggestions? It looks like the thread shaft has actually bent!
Click to expand...
If it has bent replace it.
 
I'm not sure that it isn't just the very tip actually. Problem is the ball is turning in the arm, so I cannot get the nut to go down. How can I hold the ball joint without messing up the thread?
 
James2 said:
I'm not sure that it isn't just the very tip actually. Problem is the ball is turning in the arm, so I cannot get the nut to go down. How can I hold the ball joint without messing up the thread?
Click to expand...
You will probably kill the ball (joint) if you try and grip that bit. Sounds like a game over to me but if in doubt post up a picture...
 
James2 said:
I'm not sure that it isn't just the very tip actually. Problem is the ball is turning in the arm, so I cannot get the nut to go down. How can I hold the ball joint without messing up the thread?
Click to expand...

Use a lever on the ball joint to press the taper in then turn the nut.
 
I cannot get the top cap of the drop arm ball joint to seat all the way. I have tried a few times and it always sits proud at the top about 0.5cm. Any suggestions? I don't have a G clamp on me, but I have used a socket on a trolley jack to try and send it home, likewise a hammer and punch. Any ideas? It's all that's stopping me getting home now!
 
James2 said:
I cannot get the top cap of the drop arm ball joint to seat all the way. I have tried a few times and it always sits proud at the top about 0.5cm. Any suggestions? I don't have a G clamp on me, but I have used a socket on a trolley jack to try and send it home, likewise a hammer and punch. Any ideas? It's all that's stopping me getting home now!
Click to expand...

Either the spring is trapped under the bottom plate, it needs to be central, or the top race isnt seated fully in the arm. Light pressure with a jack should seat the plate far enough to get the circlip in.
Some of the cheap kits are such poor quality they are very hard to assemble, try an OEM quality for best results.
 
I had a Britpart ball joint kit for the drop arm once and it wouldn't push far enough home to get the circlip in, no matter how much I jacked with the bottle jack. Eventually I ended up using the old cup and spring. Sometimes the tolerances are a bit generous on cheaper kits. It's worth making sure the spring clip is fully home in its groove too. I've had one drop out on me. So as well as jacking the innards into the drop arm I go round the clip with a hammer and drift giving it a few little taps to help seat it in the groove.
 
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