tom1979

tom1979

Well-Known Member
Full Member
evening all,

Last week I visited Storm Tuning again and now have their Stage 3 map and a few other modifications. The transformation is unbelievable even coming from their Stage 2 map. No smoke and EGT’s remain unchanged. My Defender with a 3” lift, disco transfer box and 33x12.5x15 wheels is now much more driveable although I think now it’s going to have to be lowered and put on sensible size wheels!

My ageing radiator whilst working ok is looking like it’s getting on a bit and I am thinking of replacing it with something a bit better, it is at least 7 years old and could possibly even be original (year 2000 model !). I have an Allisport uprated intercooler which seems fine but they are very slow to make or do anything and I have had other problems with them on other things although the outcome of that was i ended up teaching myself to tig weld to an acceptable standard!!

wondered if there are any other recommendations on uprated radiators?

If Allisport are the best to go for then is it recommended to go for their electric fan kit too (integrated to the radiator)? I know there are mixed opinions about doing away with the viscous fan as it does aide in providing airflow to the engine bay.

And also, maybe the standard (decent make) radiator is good enough anyway?

Many thanks
 
Unless its showing signs of overheating then is it needed?

Mine creeps up a little when booting it but thats because my rads seen better days. Bought a new Nissens unit to replace my old one with.
 
The most I have seen (booting it on the motorway) was 98 and in the heat of summer maybe slightly higher.

Have you a link to the Nissens one you got?

Cheers
 
depending on your needs and i am geussing with all the maps and stages done
yes a bigger cooling or more efficient coolant system will be better ..to a curtain point. ..towing or racing ..however the boiling point of coolant has not changed unless you also change out the coolant cap to a higher pressure value
common sense is also needed when playing hard for lengths of time regardless how many coolers you have on board
 
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ps tom keep your viscous in place and coaling ..when the viscus fully locks in yes this robs power from the engine as it draws in air flow ..howling noise

unless you can find thermos fans and a coaling set up that pulls the same amount of air flow with out a load on the electrical system ?

LOL the amount of alternators i have changed or rebuilt due to sound systems it is not worth it
 
Thanks for the replies. Since I don’t tow with it or push my luck for extended periods it sounds like a good quality standard radiator with be ok, possibly some silicone hoses though. And yes, the boiling point of the coolant hasn’t changed :)

@ozzyboydeano you agree the viscous fan is better than electric?
 
Also agree viscous over leccy.

Was from Trans global £120 i think.

I have read from a few people that using the Allisport uprated rad in a road car tended to "overcool" meaning the heater doesnt work and other issues.

I was considering silicone hoses till i sas the price!! :confused: not needed imo unless leaking or split.

I am however planning to swap the LR coolant gauge for a Stack one so i can see the "live" temp as it happens.
 
bankz5152 said:
I am however planning to swap the LR coolant gauge for a Stack one so i can see the "live" temp as it happens.
Click to expand...

I got a durite temp gauge and a new coolant sensor housing and am planning to tap it in there, haven’t got around to it yet though been on the shelf for six months lol
 
See my signature about the viscous vs electric fan... i've tried 3 types including dedicated Kenlowe and a big russian 450W one and none of them was up to the job at ambient 30*C + , the russian was the best but on long uphills but the ECT went to 105 with that too.

I have bigger alluminium radiator(cheap one from ebay) cos i tow a big boat from time to time and it doesnt affect heating as the heating circuit doesnt go through it also i have FBH for winter
 
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sierrafery said:
See my signature about the viscous vs electric fan... i've tried 3 types including dedicated Kenlowe and a big russian 450W one and none of them was up to the job at ambient 30*C + , the russian was the best but on long uphills but the ECT went to 105 with that too.

I have bigger alluminium radiator(cheap one from ebay) cos i tow a big boat from time to time and it doesnt affect heating as the heating circuit doesnt go through it also i have FBH for winter
Click to expand...

I’ve been looking at this one, welding looks better than some on eBay: https://rover.ebay.com/rover/0/0/0?mpre=https://www.ebay.co.uk/ulk/itm/201296728493

Did you write a post about you FBH? I was looking to install one on my Defender
 
tom1979 said:
Thanks for the replies. Since I don’t tow with it or push my luck for extended periods it sounds like a good quality standard radiator with be ok, possibly some silicone hoses though. And yes, the boiling point of the coolant hasn’t changed :)

@ozzyboydeano you agree the viscous fan is better than electric?
Click to expand...

yes viscous is better for this application .....however i preffer electric fans on a vehicle that revs more than 6000 rpm we dont see many diesels reving past this point

however turning larger tyres consistently on a stock drive train is just as good as towing

i love seeing all the 4wds running big tyres like 35 inch mickey Thompson mud tyres .....but the engine struggles to turn them

hence the stage in remaps done ?

ps a silicon hose wont make your coolant flow faster
 
tom1979 said:
I got a durite temp gauge and a new coolant sensor housing and am planning to tap it in there, haven’t got around to it yet though been on the shelf for six months lol
Click to expand...
please tread carefully just be mindful of others as there are members here who lurk in the back ground..... who do not like the fact of extra gauges installed as they are classed as a worry gauge LOL

i have been down this path once before posting vids of my own or trying to help while monitoring mechanically boost or fuel pressures or while trying to diagnose an issue on another post

to the point the amount of gauges i have mounted to my pillar ran off topic LOL

my advise install the gauge where it wont offend people LOL please keep this discreet :cool:
 
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ozzyboydeano said:
please tread carefully just be mindful of others as there are members here who lurk in the back ground..... who do not like the fact of extra gauges installed as they are classed as a worry gauge LOL

i have been down this path once before posting vids of my own or trying to help while monitoring mechanically boost or fuel pressures or while trying to diagnose an issue on another post

to the point the amount of gauges i have mounted to my pillar ran off topic LOL

my advise install the gauge where it wont offend people LOL please keep this discreet :cool:
Click to expand...

I’m planning to replace the existing coolant temp gauge with a durite one that shows the actual temp. Not sure how that could offend anyone? o_O

ozzyboydeano said:
ps a silicon hose wont make your coolant flow faster
Click to expand...

No, but they are stronger hoses
 
tom1979 said:
I’m planning to replace the existing coolant temp gauge with a durite one that shows the actual temp. Not sure how that could offend anyone? o_O



No, but they are stronger hoses
Click to expand...

just wasnt to sure mate not many people like the extra gauges installed even when trying to diagnose an issiue. or look after there investment by adding .. boost/ fuel pressures / oil pressure EGTS etc

i will agree they are a better hoses but why the need to change them out .... dont forget also to change out your boost hoses as these might be baked also

if your experiencing very high under bonnet temps due to the engine being worked hard ..remove the sealing strips that seal between the bonnet and body.. you will be surprised how this helps to take a load off the cooling system

you will find a new stock rad will be better ..just check for electrolysis while your old on is installed
 
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ozzyboydeano said:
you will find a new stock rad will be better
Click to expand...
How comes? ... i've had new stock for few months before the bigger one and the cooling is better with this, with stock the ECT went up to 105 not once while towing uphill with the stock one while i rarely see 100 with the big one, the warm up is the same cos while the thermostat is closed it doesnt matter what radiator is fitted... according to my ECT readings the cooling is improved with around 10% as overall percentage with the bigger radiator so the 30% in the advertising is a bit exagerated IMO
 
sierrafery said:
How comes? ... i've had new stock for few months before the bigger one and the cooling is better with this, with stock the ECT went up to 105 not once while towing uphill with the stock one while i rarely see 100 with the big one, the warm up is the same cos while the thermostat is closed it doesnt matter what radiator is fitted... according to my ECT readings the cooling is improved with around 10% as overall percentage with the bigger radiator so the 30% in the advertising is a bit exagerated IMO
Click to expand...
i was replying to tom as he was asking about a standered decent radiator ... i was trying to explain a new radiator will be better than his old one
 
sierrafery said:
How comes? ... i've had new stock for few months before the bigger one and the cooling is better with this, with stock the ECT went up to 105 not once while towing uphill with the stock one while i rarely see 100 with the big one, the warm up is the same cos while the thermostat is closed it doesnt matter what radiator is fitted... according to my ECT readings the cooling is improved with around 10% as overall percentage with the bigger radiator so the 30% in the advertising is a bit exagerated IMO
Click to expand...


if your engine coolant isnt over heating this does not mean your engine oil temp maybe to high either using the stock engine oil cooler ?

from the UK and now australia ..i am starting to see more internal damages to engines and more turbo failures .. people fitting in larger radiators thinking they can push the engine harder for longer periods

some manufactures have a oil temp sensor to the ecu located inside the engine sump... this is also classed as an early warning device that limits engine power . rather than relying on a coolant temp that will react to late before it catches up 3 weeks later

engine oil isnt just a lubricant its also used a cooling aid that gets over looked ....... regardless of the size of the coolant radiators you have installed up front
 
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tom1979 said:
evening all,

Last week I visited Storm Tuning again and now have their Stage 3 map and a few other modifications. The transformation is unbelievable even coming from their Stage 2 map. No smoke and EGT’s remain unchanged. My Defender with a 3” lift, disco transfer box and 33x12.5x15 wheels is now much more driveable although I think now it’s going to have to be lowered and put on sensible size wheels!

My ageing radiator whilst working ok is looking like it’s getting on a bit and I am thinking of replacing it with something a bit better, it is at least 7 years old and could possibly even be original (year 2000 model !). I have an Allisport uprated intercooler which seems fine but they are very slow to make or do anything and I have had other problems with them on other things although the outcome of that was i ended up teaching myself to tig weld to an acceptable standard!!

wondered if there are any other recommendations on uprated radiators?

If Allisport are the best to go for then is it recommended to go for their electric fan kit too (integrated to the radiator)? I know there are mixed opinions about doing away with the viscous fan as it does aide in providing airflow to the engine bay.

And also, maybe the standard (decent make) radiator is good enough anyway?

Many thanks
Click to expand...

there are mixed opinions
regardless how large your cooling system is oil temp is over looked


maybe ask allisport if your electric system is up to scratch

 
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