Its a landrover, they don't really need to be powerful, they are an off road vehicle. Td5 produces about 155hp standard, My landy makes 85horse, which I find quite adequate for working on the farm, laning and some road use."Strange upgrades"... an intercooler and oil catch tank? I wan't her to have a little more poke, that's not so unusual is it?
Although I don't usually mention it for fear of lynching by enviro types, my breather is routed into the chassis too! No point in taking any chances!On my much older tdi engines I tried a catch tank its seemed to attract condensation and make a grey sludge, in the end I routed the breather pipe to atmosphere and the intercooler pipework is still spotless inside, obviously if you do deep water work this isnt such a good idea!
So I fitted a blank to the inlet pipework so a few minutes with a screwdriver will make the engine waterproof again.
You could well be right. Aint really looked into it, but they do have good road speed.I think the TD5 produces about 120bhp as standard in Defender.
For road use it's alright, but much nicer to drive with a remap, as it can keep a steady speed up and down hills without having to go up and down the gearbox.
Having said that l never got our TD5 90 remapped in eight years.
My 110 seemed harder work on the motorway etc so l got that done.
Just buy a cheap jobbie off eBay mate and put a 'grease nipple' type connection on some solid pipework (after the cooler) and run it into the cab, you can only check boost under load - easiest way on a gradient (if egg sucking, sorry!). Find a quiet hill and leave the bonnet on the latch and keep fettling. Not sure on the td5's yet what gear would be best to create peak boost but it wouldn't take much figuring!Ive got a alisport one in mine but it came with it, as noted above mine has been played with and im currently adjusting the waste gate to dump pressure at higher rpm as it starts to kangaroo and then runs flat due to over boosting. Im getting close to gettig it right but really need a boost guage to get it right as too much makes it sluggish.
I think the TD5 produces about 120bhp as standard in Defender.
For road use it's alright, but much nicer to drive with a remap, as it can keep a steady speed up and down hills without having to go up and down the gearbox.
Having said that l never got our TD5 90 remapped in eight years.
My 110 seemed harder work on the motorway etc so l got that done.
Have you tried the diesel basics, like setting the tappets and changing the fuel and air filter? Always worth getting the most out of what you have got, before replacing bits that may be fully functional.You can tell my 110 has more to give just from a week of general driving, you can almost feel it gasping for air when pushed. I believe they are 122 and a map should take them to 150. Obviously with a derv you are looking at torque and not chasing ponies though!
down shift to 3rd, you are lugging the engine at 30 mph when you floor itMy remapped TD5 is much better to drive, but l do get more smoke when l floor it particularly at low RPM (say 30mph in fourth)
You can only really see it if a car is following in the dark.
I guess you can't have both.
Getting 2020kg of 110 county iron must take a but of shoving!Youve also got to remember a Defender is a heavy old beast to get going!
Have you tried the diesel basics, like setting the tappets and changing the fuel and air filter? Always worth getting the most out of what you have got, before replacing bits that may be fully functional.
Torque is really what is needed with a landy, my Perkins engine 2a only produced 60 horse, but more torque than a 3.5 v8!
Have you tried the diesel basics, like setting the tappets and changing the fuel and air filter? Always worth getting the most out of what you have got, before replacing bits that may be fully functional.
Torque is really what is needed with a landy, my Perkins engine 2a only produced 60 horse, but more torque than a 3.5 v8!
Ive got a alisport one in mine but it came with it, as noted above mine has been played with and im currently adjusting the waste gate to dump pressure at higher rpm as it starts to kangaroo and then runs flat due to over boosting. Im getting close to gettig it right but really need a boost guage to get it right as too much makes it sluggish.
Thanks I never thought of fitting one into the metal work, I was going to t off the wastegate rubber pipe at the end away fro. The turboJust buy a cheap jobbie off eBay mate and put a 'grease nipple' type connection on some solid pipework (after the cooler) and run it into the cab, you can only check boost under load - easiest way on a gradient (if egg sucking, sorry!). Find a quiet hill and leave the bonnet on the latch and keep fettling. Not sure on the td5's yet what gear would be best to create peak boost but it wouldn't take much figuring!
TBH I've not had a look as I've not been under the drivers seat yet as it is bolted shut for securityHave you got the boost controller on that?
BAS and Alive do them allows you to run near 200 odd psi boost.
You must mean 20 odd psiHave you got the boost controller on that?
BAS and Alive do them allows you to run near 200 odd psi boost.
Yes, think you would be right about that, as it goes. Not really an option for performance increase, then!I havent looked in a td5 for years but seem to remember they are hydraulic tappets.