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dorowe

New Member

• May 28, 2006

• #1

I have just bought a 1999 Freeelander with a "Headgasket" problem that required a new (secondhand) block & head. At least I bought it knowing there was a problem (A failed head gasket that was true but also included two melted pistons, two valves with missing chunks, head face a complete mess and one liner way too low)!


It is now running ok but does not stop, particuarly when towing, despite new discs & pads


What parts do I need to fit the later vented disks - is it just the callipers & disks or are more parts required?


Would fitting upgraded pads & disks to me existing set-up, e.g. EBC, be a cheaper/better alternative?

 

marksurry

New Member

• May 28, 2006

• #2

What make disks and pads did you fit? Did you allow enough time for them to bed in?
There are a few people on the forum that tow with their Freelanders, I reckon they can answer your questions better. I haven't heard of any one having braking problems though.

 

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dorowe

New Member

• May 28, 2006

• #3

Reason may be that I bought some Ebay disks & pads. The disks look ok but the pads may be suspect.

However the later models had upgraded disks so would appreciate some advice as to best way to go:

1) Official LandRover Pads
2) Performance pads, e.g. EBC
3) EBC pads + disks
4) Upgrade to later model system - This would also provide new calipers so preferred option but do any other parts need changing - I have 16" wheels?

 

marksurry

New Member

• May 28, 2006

• #4

Ebay disks and pads eh? That could be your problem. There are 2 components on my car that I don't cut corners on.
1. Tyres.
2. Brakes.
You may find the Ebay brake components are sub standard. I have standard Land Rover brakes and they have no problem stopping my V6 monster, even from great speed. I thought they would fade but they have proved to have great stopping power.

 

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outlander

New Member

• May 28, 2006

• #5

The servo on mine seems to be woefully lacking - if I am manouvering in a way that I need to 'creep' forward by applying pressure to the brake pedal on & off then the servo runs out of air by about the 4th or 5th prod - has caught me out on a number of occasions and is a right pain in the butt when I am trying to manouver the trailer - Land Rover Assist guy claims he could find nothing wrong with the brakes tho'

 

tinytdi

New Member

• May 30, 2006

• #6

I had a thread going a while ago about upgrading brakes as I was never totally satisfied with mine, I now have her stopping on a dime. I replaced the original solid disks with cross drilled and grooved units from Bearmach, kevlar pads and residual pressure valves on the front and rear. These keep a small amount of pressure in the lines so when you hit the brakes they respond as though you have pumped them up. Apparently early freelanders suffer from the fluid slowly seeping back to the master cylinder so these valves work a treat by keeping the pads "just ready". I have had no problem with this setup without upgrading to vented disks and changing the calipers. I would strongly suggest trying the valves first off as they made a huge difference. Scrap the ebay cardboard disks though!

 

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dorowe

New Member

• May 30, 2006

• #7

I don't believe the eBay disks are the issue as steel is steel but the pads may well be closer to cardboard than kevlar!

Changing the calipers may be sensible given the mileage so the later calipers with the larger vented disks may be best option and with official Land Rover pads or pads from a well known motor sport supplier.

I think this is possible but a confirm would be useful.

 

tinytdi

New Member

• May 31, 2006

• #8

Dunno about the calipers suffering from miliage...mine have done over 150,000 miles and are fine...

 

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dorowe

New Member

• Jun 15, 2006

• #9

Just to end this story. I have now fitted the later vented disks with new calipers & caliper mounting bracket and of course new LR pads. I had to remove the outer lip of the brake disk shield.


Apart from the cost (!) the braking now works without excessive pedal pressure & no fade.

Fitting LR or EBC pads to the previous disks may have improved the position but this is a complete fix - and all LR parts!

Lesson learned!