htr
Well-Known Member
Tell us a wee bit more about your FL1 - year, engine, g'box, km...
Don't loose heart. I really like my K series 1.8. It's 20 years old now and I've enjoyed owing it since 2014. It has not been without drama BUT it is a fairly simple vehicle to work on and I've managed lots of work on it myself. Including: head, exhaust, cooling, transmission [ CVJ, drive shafts diff mount...], lighting ...
clunking, Hmmm, without more info that could be just a fairly simple CVJ or at its worst a shagged IRD [transferbox] due to a stiffened VCU.
Most will recommend you doing the one wheel up test [OWUT] a time of well less that a minute is pretty good - a minute or significantly longer is not good. Are all the tyres the same brands, size and inflation - that's a critical factor for a FL1.
Your could do an IRD oil change. Loosen the fill plug BEFORE removing the drain plug! Oil colour will give an indication to IRD health / damage...
Keep us posted.
Don't loose heart. I really like my K series 1.8. It's 20 years old now and I've enjoyed owing it since 2014. It has not been without drama BUT it is a fairly simple vehicle to work on and I've managed lots of work on it myself. Including: head, exhaust, cooling, transmission [ CVJ, drive shafts diff mount...], lighting ...
clunking, Hmmm, without more info that could be just a fairly simple CVJ or at its worst a shagged IRD [transferbox] due to a stiffened VCU.
Most will recommend you doing the one wheel up test [OWUT] a time of well less that a minute is pretty good - a minute or significantly longer is not good. Are all the tyres the same brands, size and inflation - that's a critical factor for a FL1.
Your could do an IRD oil change. Loosen the fill plug BEFORE removing the drain plug! Oil colour will give an indication to IRD health / damage...
Keep us posted.
Lissylulu
Member
Thank you for your reply!
Its is an 03 2L auto Serengeti with 140,000 miles on the clock.
Unfortunately i'm not very mechanically minded hence taking it into a garage. All tyres the same and inflation is right also as that was my first check.
It is due to go in tomorrow to remove the prop as cant afford a new transfer box.
Its is an 03 2L auto Serengeti with 140,000 miles on the clock.
Unfortunately i'm not very mechanically minded hence taking it into a garage. All tyres the same and inflation is right also as that was my first check.
It is due to go in tomorrow to remove the prop as cant afford a new transfer box.
Nodge68
Well-Known Member
It's not uncommon for the IRD to fail on mistreated FL1s, but not normally on well looked after vehicles. Maybe it's been used with odd tyres in the past, that has accelerated the IRD failure.
Don't forget to tell your on company that your propshafts have been removed. Some insurance companies will change more for the policy due to it being a modification, than repairing the IRD in the first place.
Nodge68
Well-Known Member
IRD is the correct name for the FL1s transfer box.
It only affect towing, if it's over loose or slippery ground.
You'll lights might not be related, as the 4X4 system is entirely mechanical. So you'll need to investigate those too.
GrumpyGel
Well-Known Member
Welcome to LZ.
Clonking could be a knackered mount for the rear diff (very common).
Whining, I believe, is not usually from the IRD - it usually tells you of problems once its to late in LOUD style - could be the VCU/prop support bearings (or indeed lots of things).
I would do 3 things, essentially as above...
(1) make sure all the tyres are EXACTLY the same (ie same make & model not just size).
(2) do a 1 wheel up test on the VCU.
(3) change the oil in the IRD and see what colour it comes out.
This will tell you what parts are good and what's not - then you can work out the cost of keeping it 4WD (and they are obviously more capable in 4WD). Your insurance company will tell you the monthly/annual cost of running 2WD.
https://www.landyzone.co.uk/land-rover/tests-new-freelander-owners-should-do-on-their-car.312863/
The TC/HDC issues won't be related to your other issues. You'll need to plug in a diagnostic code reader to find out what it is (probably brake peddle switch). When I need the codes read, I take it along to my local indie LR garage and cover their palms with a few pieces of silver. 'ODBII' dongles and the like won't (usually) talk to the Freelander ABS ECU. You may need to get the codes read when the lights are lit to be sure of getting the code - not exactly sure on this.
Clonking could be a knackered mount for the rear diff (very common).
Whining, I believe, is not usually from the IRD - it usually tells you of problems once its to late in LOUD style - could be the VCU/prop support bearings (or indeed lots of things).
I would do 3 things, essentially as above...
(1) make sure all the tyres are EXACTLY the same (ie same make & model not just size).
(2) do a 1 wheel up test on the VCU.
(3) change the oil in the IRD and see what colour it comes out.
This will tell you what parts are good and what's not - then you can work out the cost of keeping it 4WD (and they are obviously more capable in 4WD). Your insurance company will tell you the monthly/annual cost of running 2WD.
https://www.landyzone.co.uk/land-rover/tests-new-freelander-owners-should-do-on-their-car.312863/
The TC/HDC issues won't be related to your other issues. You'll need to plug in a diagnostic code reader to find out what it is (probably brake peddle switch). When I need the codes read, I take it along to my local indie LR garage and cover their palms with a few pieces of silver. 'ODBII' dongles and the like won't (usually) talk to the Freelander ABS ECU. You may need to get the codes read when the lights are lit to be sure of getting the code - not exactly sure on this.
GrumpyGel
Well-Known Member
If you have a look at that link in my last post, it shows you the 1 wheel up test.
Nodge above refers to the IRD as Freelander's 'transfer box'. It is, but it is nothing like a 'normal' transfer box.
The IRD essentially just has a front diff (so the front wheels can rotate at different speeds) and a direct drive (PTO if you like) to the prop shaft. There is no 'center diff' - so you would get wind up in the transmission if the prop went straight to the rear diff - this would blow the transmission very very quickly. So the prop is split in 2 and there is a Viscous Coupling (VCU) separating them. When driving normally, the 2 parts of the prop are spinning at the same (or very close to same) speed, the VCU is 'loose' - so little drive is transmitted to the back axle. When the fronts lose traction and spin (eg ice, gravel sand), the 2 bits of the prop spin at different speeds, this 'thickens up' the silicon fluid in the VCU (to the point of it essentially locking up - thus providing drive to the back axle when you need it. This happens instantaneously, as does the loosening once the fronts get grip and the props are back to rotating at the same speed.
If you run mismatched tyres, or they are not all pumped to the same pressure, the axles (and therefore the 2 bits of the prop) will turn at different speeds and thus the VCU will stiffen (lock in extreme) all the time and create that harmful wind up. Similarly, the fluid in the VCU degrades over time (and poor tyres maintenance) so will become too stiff in its ambient state or lock up too soon (eg when cornering).
This wind up puts extreme stresses on all of the transmission, and it is usually the IRD that 'goes' first.
If you look after the tyres and their pressures and monitor the VCU (1WUT) to ensure it hasn't got to stiff, then all's fine.
Nodge above refers to the IRD as Freelander's 'transfer box'. It is, but it is nothing like a 'normal' transfer box.
The IRD essentially just has a front diff (so the front wheels can rotate at different speeds) and a direct drive (PTO if you like) to the prop shaft. There is no 'center diff' - so you would get wind up in the transmission if the prop went straight to the rear diff - this would blow the transmission very very quickly. So the prop is split in 2 and there is a Viscous Coupling (VCU) separating them. When driving normally, the 2 parts of the prop are spinning at the same (or very close to same) speed, the VCU is 'loose' - so little drive is transmitted to the back axle. When the fronts lose traction and spin (eg ice, gravel sand), the 2 bits of the prop spin at different speeds, this 'thickens up' the silicon fluid in the VCU (to the point of it essentially locking up - thus providing drive to the back axle when you need it. This happens instantaneously, as does the loosening once the fronts get grip and the props are back to rotating at the same speed.
If you run mismatched tyres, or they are not all pumped to the same pressure, the axles (and therefore the 2 bits of the prop) will turn at different speeds and thus the VCU will stiffen (lock in extreme) all the time and create that harmful wind up. Similarly, the fluid in the VCU degrades over time (and poor tyres maintenance) so will become too stiff in its ambient state or lock up too soon (eg when cornering).
This wind up puts extreme stresses on all of the transmission, and it is usually the IRD that 'goes' first.
If you look after the tyres and their pressures and monitor the VCU (1WUT) to ensure it hasn't got to stiff, then all's fine.
Nodge68
Well-Known Member
Get a second hand unit and have that fitted. Alternatively you might be remove the rear output pinion and fit a blanking plate. This normally removes the gear that's damaged, so the IRD will live on for another few K miles.So we had the prop off this morning and made no difference, garage has said it needs a new transmission box or to take it off the roadsad times
GrumpyGel
Well-Known Member
You say there's clunking on hard lock - if that's so it won't be anything to do with the rear pinion on the IRD as that is not affected by turning with the props removed. Also when my IRD was absolutely and completely trashed to bits, and it was mainly the pinion bearings and gears, it made an horrendous noise just pushing it 2m - but with the props removed I could drive it round the block and it was virtually silent.
It may be a drive shaft, and if its the front RH driveshaft, then that may also have buggered its support bearing in the IRD.
If the clonking's from the back though, then it'll be the diff (unusual, but not unheard of).
You really need to be finding out where the clonk is coming from as you may throw a decent amount of cash at something that doesn't need fixing.
It may be a drive shaft, and if its the front RH driveshaft, then that may also have buggered its support bearing in the IRD.
If the clonking's from the back though, then it'll be the diff (unusual, but not unheard of).
You really need to be finding out where the clonk is coming from as you may throw a decent amount of cash at something that doesn't need fixing.
GrumpyGel
Well-Known Member
The F2 is totally different - you want a different thread.
radio521
Member
I have a whine too from the front, worst at 55-60mph, which arrived quite rapidly. My usual service garage has had a stethoscope on it and said it was from the gearbox but I asked them to disconnect the propshaft to see if the noise stopped. I'm not entirely convinced a stethoscope test is without flaws, best confined to my doctor's surgery perhaps. Anyway I'm unwell today with "man flu" so my thick head is not best for making expensive decisions, the Hippo has only done about 86k miles and all tyres are the same.
GrumpyGel
Well-Known Member
Did disconnecting the props solve the whining?
radio521
Member
No, that makes it more expensive.
Last edited:
