ifloochies
Well-Known Member
Its all well and good that he cleans out the intercooler, but considering the fact that the problem didn't go away when he drove it with the hoses off, I would say there's still an underlying problem. The 300tdi naturally aspirated is a bit more noisy (air intake noise) but isn't exactly gutless as he has described his problem. If it's not too much of an inconvenience, I would suggest you get the pump looked at by a diesel service shop....the previous owner may just have gone a bit over the top in trying to tweak the pump and may have actually made it worse, giving you the symptoms you have now.
Hi all, thought I'd give a bit of an update. So far here is whats been checked / repaired / replaced.....
air filter
fuel filter
oil filter
oil
sedimenter cleaned
injectors
fuel pump
intercooler
intake manifold
air intake hoses
MAF
boost solenoid
turbo
and guess what, I still have the same issue. I've run out of ideas now
air filter
fuel filter
oil filter
oil
sedimenter cleaned
injectors
fuel pump
intercooler
intake manifold
air intake hoses
MAF
boost solenoid
turbo
and guess what, I still have the same issue. I've run out of ideas now
Compression test , change your atf gearbox oil
ifloochies
Well-Known Member
M44FYB, you may have just stated the cause of your problem; faulty EDC.
As you've rightly said, your pump cannot be tweaked, its all electronic gimmickry and a such whatever it is that may be wrong with it is not a diy job.
It is worth noting that after over 16 years of operation, some of these systems are starting to show their age and some owners have simply opted to have the EDC system swapped for a standard all mechanical pump.
For starters, have someone put diagnostics on it and let's see what comes of that.
All the best mate....
Mudron
Active Member
The EDC system is as simple as it gets when it comes to operation. If you have black smoke at all speeds apart from idle then you are getting far too much fuel for the given load.
This would suggest either;
The needle lift sensor on number 3 injector may have broken down and is giving incorrect timing of the injection start and duration.
The EGR valve is stuck open
1 or more injectors have failed
The pump physical position timing is massively out.
The stroke position soloniod is out of calibration due to fault or failure.
This would suggest either;
The needle lift sensor on number 3 injector may have broken down and is giving incorrect timing of the injection start and duration.
The EGR valve is stuck open
1 or more injectors have failed
The pump physical position timing is massively out.
The stroke position soloniod is out of calibration due to fault or failure.
Hi, I'm in Bradford ,West Yorkshire.
I actually own a snap on modis ultra scanner. I have scanned it but it gave no fault codes, I ran live data and from what I could see everything appeared to be functioning correctly. The egr valve has already been removed. How difficult is it and what parts would be required to remove the whole edc?
Mudron
Active Member
I wouldnt have thought the snap on would be able to read the codes. Needs to be a lynx etc.
Some obd tools can communicate with the ecu but cant read the trouble codes, so assume there are not any.
I would personaly try to solve the issue, the EDC system is very economical (would be great if they fitted it to the manuals) with better power curve etc.
Try unpluging the needle lift sensor on no. 3 and see if it makes any difference?
I think its just a case of physically fitting the manual pump.
I have never done it so I would hazard a guess the kickdown would need some fettleing and a new accelerater cable fitting.
I am sure somone will be along who has done it.
You can leave things like the crank sensor which is a begger to get to, in situ as it wont hurt.
You could remove the ecu and all wiring or just unplug the ecu.
Some obd tools can communicate with the ecu but cant read the trouble codes, so assume there are not any.
I would personaly try to solve the issue, the EDC system is very economical (would be great if they fitted it to the manuals) with better power curve etc.
Try unpluging the needle lift sensor on no. 3 and see if it makes any difference?
I think its just a case of physically fitting the manual pump.
I have never done it so I would hazard a guess the kickdown would need some fettleing and a new accelerater cable fitting.
I am sure somone will be along who has done it.
You can leave things like the crank sensor which is a begger to get to, in situ as it wont hurt.
You could remove the ecu and all wiring or just unplug the ecu.
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My sensor is on number 4 injector, the one closest to the bulkhead. If I just unplug it will it cause any other issues in regards to running? Also I have noticed the injector appears to be seated a little higher than the other 3, not sure if it's meant to be like that. I did remove in and try seat it lower so it was level with the others but it won't go lower. I would prefer to keep all the edc in place if possible but I'm getting to a point where I'm losing interest & patience with the car now. I'll also try unplugging the ecu and see what happens.
I've unplugged the sensor on injector no4 and the black smoke has gone, I'm now getting a little white smoke. Also as I've unplugged the sensor the engine check light has come on and put the car in limp mode so I can't check if the power is back or not. Looks like I'll have to source and fit a new injector before I can check any further
