It's me again! Finally managed to find the courage to look at the rear brakes... I hate drums.

Found that the wheel cylinders feel like sh*te and don't return when pressed, they go no pressure from the pedal until about 3/4 the way down the pedal, I think either air got in there and can't get out out the internals are broken. Video here showing the cylinder that does not return and has no resistance!

You can see here it moves a bit but then stops there, I wanted to make sure I was thinking rightly. So went to the other side to ensure that was working and when pressed inward it returns back to its original position albeit slowly.

2 new cylinders are in the way.

Let me know if you have any thoughts on this...
 
It's me again! Finally managed to find the courage to look at the rear brakes... I hate drums.

Found that the wheel cylinders feel like sh*te and don't return when pressed, they go no pressure from the pedal until about 3/4 the way down the pedal, I think either air got in there and can't get out out the internals are broken. Video here showing the cylinder that does not return and has no resistance!

You can see here it moves a bit but then stops there, I wanted to make sure I was thinking rightly. So went to the other side to ensure that was working and when pressed inward it returns back to its original position albeit slowly.

2 new cylinders are in the way.

Let me know if you have any thoughts on this...

None other than, yep, put new cylinders on. If not properly bled the air in them, which contains water vapour, adds to any rust problem. Also they work over such a tiny distance that even if you take them apart and hone them, they often simply don't work again properly. If you do take them apart you will see how amazingly gunked up they get.
 
Never had any success with that methond on any car. 2 person method for me is:

1) open bleed valve & assistant pushes pedal steadily to floor & hold.
2) close bleed valve & assistant releases pedal.
3) repeat 1 & 2 until no bubbles on fluid.

Remember to check master is topped up regularly.

Depending on the system, for one-person bleeding, you can either use vacuum on the caliper valves, or ezibleed on the master. Some ABS system prevents these from working, so it's back to 2 peeps.

RAVE specifies your method for the freelander.
Or the very simple rubber tube with the bolt in the far end and the slit in the side. Cost peanuts and I use them all the time, I have even made one when I couldn't get one.

Eezibleed is an oxymoron. Gave up on mine when it refused to work but sprayed the engine bay with brake fluid. Tired it on various cars with no luck.

But each to their own!!
 
Thank you for the reply, didn't even think to take them apart! My pressure bleeder seems to work alright, but I'll be using the pedal next time to ensure I get full range of the master to ensure air is taken out of that, going to fit them next weekend, painting the new front calipers I got too... so pictures will be coming soon (still painting)
 

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