Hi all...

I'm currently in UJ hell... i dont know how many times i've had my props off in the last few months... i suppose it's not a bad idea to replace them all at the same time! Anyway...

I'm looking into getting a full set of UJ's for my 90... have 75mm on front prop and 81mm on rear, the last lot i got were GKN's (Land Rover Defender GKN Propshaft UJ Universal Joint | eBay UK)

... but i've now seen a different type of "GKN" UJ although the box looks like Bearmach: Land Rover Defender Discovery 1&2 Propshaft UJ GKN OEM | eBay UK
described as "heavy duty" are these likely to last a bit longer?

the only other "trusted" make i know of are hardy spicer: TVC100010 RPOP SHAFT UJ HARDY SPICER | eBay UK

anybody got any advice on which of the above three might be the best ones to go for?

one of the GKN's i fitted a year ago gave up the ghost about 2 months ago ( although i didnt replace both ends of the prop so maybe the older UJ being a bit loose put strain on the newer one?) and i've done very little offroading, though i do tow 1-2 tonnes fairly often so they've definately done some work. Still, thats only 10 months of use... not great!

i noticed that the old UJ's i took off the vehichle (which weren't fitted by me) had a metal sleeve over the rubber one on the inside of the bearing cups - does that ring a bell to anyone? maybe theyre an older type that are now discontinued, but they seem to have lasted the longest since ive had the vehicle 4 years now and only started having uj trouble about a year ago... and i've done many long trips between uk and ireland towing heavy loads on the original UJs.

a friend of mine suggested i should go for tractor uj's (presuming i can find them in the right size) - would this be a good idea?

and one last thing... i saw a post here on LZ saying that bearmach UJs should be avoided as it's impossible to get a grease gun onto the nipples which are apparently too short - is there any truth to this? i imagine it could seem like that if you're trying to get the head of the gun into the tight space between the yoke and the flange.

As you can probably tell i'd rather avoid paying upwards of £40 a piece with Dealers (and i understand they supply GKN anyway?)

thanks and all the best!

grease regularly replace both at the same time make sure the phasing is correct and make sure the rear trialing arms are fitted correctly i.e the correct side of the chassis mount. Grease regularly should be fine.

You can get longer nipples for the ujs makes life easier
Ivw had loads of land rovers approx 8 and have never replaced a uj grease often is the way to make them last
Maybe better to get two new props and be done with it?

Lynall

sounds like the phasing may be out ....

first time i did my UJs on the front prop and it lasted about 400 miles before rattling its self to bits - replaced it , got it phased correctly and its lasted ever since

Hi all, thanks for your advice...

been looking into the phasing and getting conflicting opinions...

most folks seem to agree the back prop should be IN phase, i.e. the yokes are in line with eachother.

as for the front prop... some say 45degrees, some say 30 degrees (mine looks to be about that)... and looking at my "spare" 90 which i only got recently (1989, 19J) the front prop is 90 degrees out of phase! mind you i've never driven that one and have no history on it although the UJs on the front prop are in perfect condition and not brand new so the 90 degree aligment cant have been causing much of a problem when it was being driven.

anyway... it seems neither of my props are "original" the rear has a large gaiter over the sliding joint (which the haynes says should only be present on the front prop!) and the front has the more familiar rubber end cap with blue plastic splines. the vehicle had a 2" lift originally so i presume the non-standard configuration may have something to do with this.

one major discovery... although i dont know how much difference it makes... is the fact that both props are on the wrong way round! i.e. the front prop sliding joint is closest to the trans. box and the rear is closest the diff... according to the haynes (i really mjust get a proper workshop manual!) they should be the exact opposite.

and one last thing... there is a small amount of play between the splines on the rear.

maybe lynall is right... i should get some decent props!

and just to complete the set... here's a post suggesting that the front prop should also be totally IN phase!
http://www.landyzone.co.uk/lz/f7/front-prop-shaft-phasing-23057.html

and if anybody says "go to a specialist".....!!!

which end slide is makes no difference to operation work either way as well where transfer box flange or diff flange is makes no difference never need marking ,props should be in phase ,but mayebe phased a little at front 30 degrees would be plenty ,might not be noticeable on some vehicles for some time if out ,some new props dont come in proper alignment i have seen this too ,often they are out of alignment due to ignorance as some,garages often split prop,rather than undo bolts and so get put back any way, front props havent had gaiters for a long time but that makes no difference,if in doubt fit prop in phase (as rear)

Take no notice of the Haynes book of lies,fit in phase [see recent post by me unknowenly running a shaft out of phase]:unusual intermitent vibration:Fit both slides at gearbox,this is just to keep them out of the muck as much as possible.

BOLLIX

Front is run out of phase 1 or 2 splines approx (30 -45 degrees) cant remember off my head which goes against every published article ever written about propshafts in general. WHY Well thats because the nose of the diff is raised and to combat the misalignment causing vibration.


I always put the gaiter to the gearbox keeps it out of the muck well as best as we can.

90 is different the rear is in of course in phase BECAUSE the propshaft flanges are more of less paralell when in normal running the front diff flange is NOT paralell its raised.

The front propshaft is therefore run out of phase to prevent the unwanted vibration ALL coil sprung Landy models are like this. Series vehicles are ALL in phase because the front propshaft flange is paralell.

Paddocks supply propshafts in phase and a note here. We have tested the Britpart/Paddocks cheap propshafts and these are good for the money HOWEVER they have nowhere near the same maximum angle than a genuine LR propshaft and a word of warning to those fitting lift kits or dislocation cones these will bind if you dangle wheels much sooner than an LR Genuine item. I have seen Spydermans front propshaft break because his front axle droped so much that the front propshaft uj's fouled and it spat the propshaft out on a climb. I believe that a genuine propshaft that had UJ's replaced would have coped because it has a greater angle range than that of the ones that paddock supplied.

I think I need to replace UJ's soon, so interested in view on the OP's question about which UJ's are reliable and good value. See prices from £45 or genuine to £5 for copies.

And, I assume phasing is not an issue with just replacing the UJ's. Your not pulling the prop apart!

Well...

the props on my "spare" landy (currently getting less of a landy as i strip it for parts!) look to be original/// so i think my best course of action would be to have them off, get some nice new UJs, and wait for the current ones fitted to my everyday landy to go (might as well get my moneys worth!) and then ive got two nice props ready to fit...

which brings me back to my original question... does anyone have any suggestions of which are the BEST ujs to go for?

Don't buy the cheapy ones from Paddocks, they last weeks not months, fitted some GKN to mine a while back and seem to be doing well after maybe 20,000 miles, regular grease is the key.

Lee

Could always have a look fur the arrows on yer prop...

http://www.landyzone.co.uk/lz/f41/propshaft-alignment-tip-81942.html

might not be noticable if covered in crap and thick paint

Ah use the GKN uj's mesel' and can't really fault them....

http://www.landyzone.co.uk/lz/f41/uj-renewal-59812.html

Just keep greasin' thum as said before and ye should be fine