Hi, hope everyone is having a nice Sunday?
I need some help please, I was taking the family out this morning, when I started the car (Disco 2 2003 ex auto TD5) for the first time, the S and M lights stayed on and flashed, I turned off the car tired again and it was still the same, I tried again but this time moved the gear stick up and down a few times and this time they didn't stay on. I was thinking that it could possibly be the X Y Z switch, I no from reading on here today that the battery could be causing it but I am thinking if that was the case wouldn't it be the same until I changed the battery or could it be intermittent same as if the switch was on its way out, what do you guys think?

So we started our journey and with in a few yards we noticed that the gear changes where lumpy more so on the down changes, after about 10 mins of driving it was really bad and you could feel it through the floor as well as hear it clonk in to gear again more on the down changes stopping at junctions etc. I remembered reading something on here about the MAF sensor and that if faulty it can mess up all sorts of things like gear changes and since I knew that the one on the car was really bad anyway due to bad accelerating and a really bad flat spot up until 2750rpm when the turbo finally kicks in I thought I would unplug it and see what happens. Well the car pulled away much better but the turbo still only kicks in at 2750rmp but the gear changes are like butter now even the down changes so it definitely effecting that.

Could the S and M flashing lights be related or was this all just one of them days and what are your thoughts on this MAF sensor. Apparently I need to replace with a good LR One I think its about £145 as the cheap ones are crap and a waste of money. Regards to the turbo and lag do you think this is all down to the MAF as well, the car really did drive much better once it was unplugged but the turbo was still the same. Can I leave this MAF unplugged until I replace it or would this do damaged to the car, I am guessing its going to get less MPG but if its only a few miles I am not worried. Really hope you guys can help and explain some stuff about this, I would like to get on and fix asap and my knowledge is not that great.

Many thanks as always.

The late turbo action might be due to sticking wastegate so give it some wd40 where the rod meets the turbo, grab the rod with a mole grips and push it few times toward the turbo untill the spring brings it back freely(it has some resistance but not scary), you can drive it with unplugged MAF without any worries untill you replace it, even if it affects the management it's quite unlikely to trigger the M+S warnings, a VDO unit is good enough and it's aroung 80quid... the XYZ switch and it's plug used to suffer from the dripping aircon drain which goes directy there, one common thing is here http://landroverclubvi.weebly.com/u..._manual_mode_light_illuminated_860403nasf.pdf but for the M+S the best is to read the stored fault code which will point you in the right direction

Good advice above ... also as my experience of a sticky waste gate on my td5

sierrafery said:

The late turbo action might be due to sticking wastegate so give it some wd40 where the rod meets the turbo, grab the rod with a mole grips and push it few times toward the turbo untill the spring brings it back freely(it has some resistance but not scary), you can drive it with unplugged MAF without any worries untill you replace it, even if it affects the management it's quite unlikely to trigger the M+S warnings, a VDO unit is good enough and it's aroung 80quid... the XYZ switch and it's plug used to suffer from the dripping aircon drain which goes directy there, one common thing is here http://landroverclubvi.weebly.com/u..._manual_mode_light_illuminated_860403nasf.pdf but for the M+S the best is to read the stored fault code which will point you in the right direction

Click to expand...

Brilliant advice thanks. I have looked at the wastegate and its fine there is good movement, its hard to push but feels like thats how it should be, I have fitted a new MAF today and the drive is far better so a big improvement there however the boost is still the same, there just seems like a lot of lag, the guy at the LR garage said the td5s are very laggy and that mine is standard with the turbo kicking in around 2500 / 2750, whats your opinion on this, is it normal?

I also had the car connected to a computer at the same place to check the S and M light problem and he said that there were a few logs regarding the X Y Z switch, a problem with the current. I also checked the oil on the injector loom and found a small amount on the left hand side, the wires are clean but the inside of the connector wasn't could this be a cause?



In a day of so I am taking it to get a reconditioned X Y Z switch, the garaged have said there fit it and let me drive about for a week and if the problem goes then it will be £150, If your can think or suggest anything else thats would be great or does it sound like I am covering all bases.

Replace the injector loom ASAP... and adjust back the wastegate rod as to have only 10 threads left untill the locknut, do you still have EGR? yes or no clean the MAP sensor anyway but if the EGR is still there that would be a good start by deleting, put new good brand air and fuel filters too

sierrafery said:

Replace the injector loom ASAP... and adjust back the wastegate rod as to have only 10 threads left untill the locknut, do you still have EGR? yes or no clean the MAP sensor anyway but if the EGR is still there that would be a good start by deleting, put new good brand air and fuel filters too

Click to expand...

Hi thanks for the quick reply, Ill jump on replacing this loom in the next few days if I can, I found a guide on line that seems easy to follow, I should be able to do this I think.
when you say adjust back the wastegate what direction should I turn, will it only turn one way, apologies if this is a stupid question.

The car still has EGR I think, ill get some carb cleaner and give the MAP a clean. The fuel filter is old I am sure as I do sometimes get the water light pop up on the dash, thats the next one to do, man this list is growing fast. Thanks again

turn the locknut toward the valve as to count 10 threads left out cos now there should be a13-14 as factory setup then follow it with the adjuster so the rod will be a bit shorter...if the EGR is still on it's probably full of muck which restricts the boost to the inlet