Did you replace (new or S/Hand) or rebuild the compressor???
Just wondering if the compressos big-end/little-end are siezing???
OK,,,,I'II shut up.......
That is possible but not the little end there ain't one.
awillemsen
Active Member
Compressor was purchased new in December and fitted over Christmas. It's a genuine, brand new, not reconditioned, Dunlop item from Island 4x4
NicP38
Member
Have a look on PaulP38A webpage.
EAS Valve Block Renew « PaulP38A.com
At the end of his valve block renewal page he shows a procedure to avoid excessive cabin noise due to the air compressor operating if the EAS housing is rubbing on the body of your Rangie.
He cure this inserting a metal machine washer and three fibre washers.
EAS Valve Block Renew « PaulP38A.com
At the end of his valve block renewal page he shows a procedure to avoid excessive cabin noise due to the air compressor operating if the EAS housing is rubbing on the body of your Rangie.
He cure this inserting a metal machine washer and three fibre washers.
Datatek
Well-Known Member
I cured that particular problem on mine with a big soft faced mallet, I bashed the inner wing down until it cleared the underside of the box
awillemsen
Active Member
I've checked the earth point - contact surfaces are clean and shiny, and nut was done up tight. Just in case, I've cleaned it all and done it up nice and tight.
However, problem is still there. I've done a bit of trial and error, and it seems that the trigger is not the brake circuit, as the compressor doesn't come on if braking when reversing or when stationary. Also, the compressor doesn't always come on if braking when going forward. It looks like the compressor is being triggered by deceleration or weight transfer.
Every time the speed goes below 1 mph the front valves open to equalise pressure across the axle. If one side is set slightly higher than the other, air will then be required to return it to position. If as i explained earlier your pressure switch is on a very short differential, that could theoretically turn compresssor on and off with only a slight depletion of stored air. I had a problem that whilst working on the car with the engine running, the compressor came on for a few seconds then went off continually. In that case a new pressure sensor cured it. Maybe the combination of a failing sensor and a high resistance connection could compound the problem.
awillemsen
Active Member
Yep - that makes sense. I ordered a new pressure sensor yesterday.
I have just fitted a Dunlop item from Island 4x4 and have the same problem with noise!!! If I put my old rebuilt pump back on the problem is gone! The old pump had a failed bearing which I have now fixed. Could this be the mounts on the new Dunlop pump? I think I will swap the mounts over on the pump and see what happens.
I also have the Dunlop compressor, no problems at all.
awillemsen
Active Member
An update, if anyone's interested...
New pressure sensor fixed the problem of the compressor coming on all the time. So, that's the good news.
Yesterday, the compressor failed - it was running (suspiciously quietly) but no air at all was being output. Taking it apart, I found that the little Allen key bolt thingy that locks the crank onto the motor drive shaft was not clamping at all - in fact, the whole crank just fell out the end when I took the cover off. Looks like either it wasn't done up properly when the compressor was manufactured, or wasn't Loctited in and worked loose. Goodness knows how it worked up to now. Anyway, reclamping the crank with Loctite fixed it (for now). I couldn't see any evidence of wear to the end of the drive shaft, but there was a spiral groove cut into it where the crank must have suddenly made its exit.
Incidentally, the excessive vibration didn't last long after my original posts - it gradually got better and then disappeared completely.
New pressure sensor fixed the problem of the compressor coming on all the time. So, that's the good news.
Yesterday, the compressor failed - it was running (suspiciously quietly) but no air at all was being output. Taking it apart, I found that the little Allen key bolt thingy that locks the crank onto the motor drive shaft was not clamping at all - in fact, the whole crank just fell out the end when I took the cover off. Looks like either it wasn't done up properly when the compressor was manufactured, or wasn't Loctited in and worked loose. Goodness knows how it worked up to now. Anyway, reclamping the crank with Loctite fixed it (for now). I couldn't see any evidence of wear to the end of the drive shaft, but there was a spiral groove cut into it where the crank must have suddenly made its exit.
Incidentally, the excessive vibration didn't last long after my original posts - it gradually got better and then disappeared completely.
StuckAgainSteve
Well-Known Member
I hope you let the supplier of your new compressor know your findings.
An update, if anyone's interested...
New pressure sensor fixed the problem of the compressor coming on all the time. So, that's the good news.
Yesterday, the compressor failed - it was running (suspiciously quietly) but no air at all was being output. Taking it apart, I found that the little Allen key bolt thingy that locks the crank onto the motor drive shaft was not clamping at all - in fact, the whole crank just fell out the end when I took the cover off. Looks like either it wasn't done up properly when the compressor was manufactured, or wasn't Loctited in and worked loose. Goodness knows how it worked up to now. Anyway, reclamping the crank with Loctite fixed it (for now). I couldn't see any evidence of wear to the end of the drive shaft, but there was a spiral groove cut into it where the crank must have suddenly made its exit.
Incidentally, the excessive vibration didn't last long after my original posts - it gradually got better and then disappeared completely.
Putting Locktite in there is fatal, soft lock yes Locktite no. You may never get it out again unless you heat the part to over 150 degrees first..
awillemsen
Active Member
Well, I did a test first
The first time I replaced the compressor (just over a year ago), I rebuilt the original compressor and Loctited the bolt thingy in. That compressor has been sitting in my garage ever since - admittedly not doing any work. Yesterday the bolt thingy came out OK once the Loctite cracked. Anyway, the bolt is so far in the thread that I would guess not a lot of Loctite ends up on the bolt...
And another point of interest - the crank out of my original compressor (which as far as I know is the one originally fitted to the car) won't fit in my new compressor - it looks like the new drive shaft has a very slightly bigger circumference than the original.
awillemsen
Active Member
I will. It's Island 4x4. The first compressor I bought from them in June last year failed in February - don't know why, just sent it back and got a replacement. The replacement has now failed. Both have been new Dunlop compressors.
Well, I did a test first
The first time I replaced the compressor (just over a year ago), I rebuilt the original compressor and Loctited the bolt thingy in. That compressor has been sitting in my garage ever since - admittedly not doing any work. Yesterday the bolt thingy came out OK once the Loctite cracked. Anyway, the bolt is so far in the thread that I would guess not a lot of Loctite ends up on the bolt...
And another point of interest - the crank out of my original compressor (which as far as I know is the one originally fitted to the car) won't fit in my new compressor - it looks like the new drive shaft has a very slightly bigger circumference than the original.
The new shaft will be 8.00mm .3149" the old one will be 5/16" .3125" or 7.9375mm. You need an 8.00mm reamer through it.
