Ruari

Active Member
As per title I have joined the club to being a proud owner with a TD5 that turns but won't start :mad:

We were out last Sunday in the 2000 110. Parked up and came out of the meeting an hour later to find she would only turn over and not start.
A phone call later and we had a mate from up the road with his nanocom.

Nothing obvious, MAF - but this has been like this for some years.
Checked the rubber button thingy - name eludes me for now - on the inside of bulkhead.
Fuel pump relay clicking in & running. Maybe it was quieter than usual or was I just thinking it was??
All engine management lights com on as they should.
Click test on nanocom for injectors is ok for all 5.
No fuel in oil
No oil in ecu injector harness.
Ecu plugs checked, relays & fuses checked. All seems ok.
She turns over but won't fire.
I did notice a small amount of water in the tray under the ecu. But wires & ecu were dry.

RAC man joins our party. His only comment was no RPM on his diagnostics.
He tried some spray in the air inlet to which it fired on this briefly. I'm not keen on this spray in a diesel.
Fuel pumps out the fuel cooler when disconnected.

Onto the flatbed home - at least it saved a few quid in diesel.

I have since changed the crankcase sensor.
Charged the battery
Removed the ecu & plug in chip had them in the house ontop the boiler.
But no further on.

SO we look the Airportable Landy with a caravan on the back. :eek:
Only in dire emergencies will that be done again.

Now I'm back to fix the problem.

I've been reading the posts - the only thing that seems to come up that could be my fault is fuel pressure.
Can someone give me an idiots guide to check for the 4bar of fuel pressure. Where do I take it and what size of thread is it to screw in a gauge etc.
 
Haynes manual shows a fuse F37 for egr & maf. Where is it located?
Is the fuel temp switch normally open or closed?
 
I've dropped my tank out from under neath and removed the fuel pump. It was a wee bit black but not too bad. I could still see through the filter on the base.

Does anyone know the part numbers for the metal retaining ring for the pump and the metal support / cradle that goes under the 110 tank?
 
A wee update for you.

Fuel tank back in with new pump and tank cradle. Pretty but no further forward.
ECU gets power - so not immobilised
Fuel pump running when cranking.
Took off the rocker cover to do the injector loom - it didn't help but I did find that the injector rocker arm had a bolt that wasn't even finger tight.
Took off the rocker rail - it has a flat spot on a roller.
Injector where the loose bolt was is bust.

New injector seals fitted.
Waiting for replacement black top injector and rocker rail.

Where can you buy new black top injectors? I had to go 2nd hand from fleabay
 
Still not running. Sounds to me like no fuel. This is either caused by air in the system or electrickery.

So far to date:
Cranksensor
Fuel pump
Fuel filter
Air bleed vlave
Injector washers & seals
2nd hand injector (x1) & rocker rail
Injector loom
Rocker seal

These have all been replaced.
Battery charged, several times
Fuel system purged several times
Tow start
Power is to the Ecu
Ecu tested OK by AliveTuning
No faults on nanaocom other than ABS & Aircon
Ecu reads not immobilised.

Still dosen't even try to fire.

My thoughts are change filter head, replace filter gauze at fuel regulator. Remove pipes from fuel regulator to make sure all air is removed.
Electric wise, check voltage at crank sensor replace starter motor. And then it's continuity checks of loom / replace.

Is there anything I'm missing?
 
Bloody Hell :eek:

Still not got it going :mad:

I've had TD5's for over 5 years that have never missed a beat until my current 110 just would'nt start one morning. Tried everthing like you and eventualy changed the tank fuel pump and the bastid still would'nt start.

After reading on here that TD5's were a reight bastid to start after working on the fuel system I went back out side and cranked her over not stop for about 30 or 40 seconds with me foot to the floor until she eventualy fired once then still cranking and pumping the peddle for another 10 seconds she fired again and again until she would run on her own.
 
Yup 2 months now off the road. Nights are cold & wet so difficult to get stuff done.
Tried foot to floor whilst cranking and a long tow start. Pain i the arse to revsre park, lucky other landy has a winch.
Injectors all coded and pass click test.

Thinking its not getting fuel either due to blockage in fuel regulator gauze, air still in the system or electrickery.
Seen that a starter motor can shut down the signals to injectors & crank sensor. So going to fit a re-con starter soon.

There is no RPM showing on nanocom when cranking. is this normal?
 
Checked for leaks ? smell diesel ?

I would have thought bump starting ruled out the starter motor !

You did'nt get one of those cheap pumps off ebay did you ?

Mine was also full of that diesel bug crap !! cleaned old pump and it worked again for a month until it stopped as abrubtly as the first time (at home, nice one) Pump seemed to be working perfectly but it would'nt start until I fitted a new one.

I cut a hole in the boot floor-very handy !

Good luck!
 
Sounds very similar to my experience with the td5.
If injectors and cps are working , you have fuel and are not immobilised it should start.

No rpm on nanocom while cranking does not sound right though.

I had to crank the engine for prob 30-60 secs while spraying ezzi-start into the inlet manifold.
Spluttered and eventually caught .....ran under its own steam from that point onwards.
 
Took the car for a long tow start. Rpm on nano com read zero the hole time.
What would cause this? Crank sensor was swapped and ecu tests were OK but it was never fitted to another vehicle to make sure it did work.
 

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