carrot

New Member
Hi people

First post here so i will say hello first.

Secondly, i would like to ask if it's an easyish job to wire a manual switch inside of my freelander so when it's hot and i'm stuck in traffic, then i could turn the fan on for peace of mind. If so, is there a diagram or anything i could lokk at somewhere.

I had the head gasket fail and was it replaced in january, so i'm a little cautious. Strangley enough, since owning the car i have never heard or think that the fan has ever come on before so this worries me a little.

Thankyou in advance.
 
free fings.

one - download the Rave manual fur the squirkit digrams.
two - turning on the air con turns on the fans.
free - i fink how to check the fans has bin posted on hear before - so do a search;)
 
Thankyou mad hat man

In reply to your pointers

one - downloaded the rave thingy, but it crashes my pc when i try to run it.

two - haven't got aircon!

three - i've searched but had no luck in finding anything

Cheers though for your help
 
2 ways to do it, i did this on my rs turbo for the same reason, and for towing my boat to the lakes,

1 , as a tempory messure / find the electonic temp sender switch and unplug and fashion a bridging wire across the terminals , this will bring on the fan.

2, nice neat way / same sender , piggy back 2 wires to the sender. attach the wires to a normal 5 pin relay. then run on of the wires from the relay to the 12V live with a 10 amp in line fuse , the other to a switched earth inside the car installing a nice neat auxillery switch on the dash somewhere.
when this is on the contacts close and the fans come on , in the off position
the fan will work in the normal way.

hope this helps.

oh and if it was a frontera , there is a brown plug on the passinger inside wing which you connect together to bring on the fan full time.

Mick
 
Here Mick, you payed attention in electronics class. That makes two candidates applying for the post of Landyzone FL1 consultant autospark.
Its a brown connector in the k-series as well, disconnect when engine running from cold, relay should kick fan on straight away. reconnect, job done!
 
Point 4, if your fan does come on then temp gauge should be above halfway. Switch your heater on to position 4 and the fan will soon go off again. I have a drilled stat, I switch the heater on to position 4 and the temp gauge plummets LOL, more than position 2 in Winter and it sucks all heat out of the engine LOL
 
Cheers NI :D

did'nt know that about the plug as "touch wood" never had a issue with over heating even with towing , " i have said it now tho, JINXED"

i shall have a mooch under the bonnet later and have a look once i have fixed my window regulater.

following the post that you did ( got to be good if NI posted it )

What a ball ache getting the regulater out of the door (2Door Model)

stripped it all down and the cable was goosed. snapped on the spool.

got me 2 back brake cable from a racer. has large nipples. i have filed them to fit the spool , and then i will use a small nut and bolt witch i have drilled out using a piller drill. this will go on the up and down bit , ( the silvery thing the window ataches too.

that is todays job fitting that back in the car. ran out of patience and plasters yesterday!!!

Mick
 
am confused here. if yer fan is controlled by a thermostat switch then even if yer towing the QE11 along the manchester ship canal, the fan will still switch on when it gets to the preset temperature. if it dint then you have a fault somewhere.
Turning your fan on manually before it gets to the preset temp will negate the benefits of having a leccy fan in the first place and could lead to higher fuel consumption by causing yer injun to run cooler that it wur designed to run
 
Hey Mick

That is a great bit of info and just what i need, thankyou. Stupid question though, do i need to fit a new relay? or can i just tap into an exisiting one? Sorry, not to good with car electronics but i am learning.

Also, something i did find out though, was that if you unplug the sensor and then crank up the engine the fan kicks in automatically. I presume that the sensor detects a fault and then does its job.

Thanks
 
yes you need to put your hand in your pocket and buy a 5 pin relay , and some 20 amp wire and a inline blade fuse holder. and a neat switch.
30 goes to one side of the temp switch / 87 goes to the other wire on the temp switch / 85 goes to 12V live or Ign Live / 86 goes to one side of the new switch and the other side of the new switch goes to earth.

hope this helps
mick
 
Anyone found away of getting this right I have a 1.8 petrol would like to do this properly as disconnecting the temp sensor messes with the engine management. I am sure there are some sparkies on here than can get this right by using a fat really and powering the fans direct
 
There is no point in running the cooling fan if the thermostat stops the cooler water getting to the engine ;) the ECU runs the fan as and when needed.
 
There is no point in running the cooling fan if the thermostat stops the cooler water getting to the engine ;) the ECU runs the fan as and when needed.

Point taken however when driving slowly up a rough single track rocky mountain pass in South Africa with outside temp running at near 40degres c you can understand the need to keep cool air flowing though the engine bay. It gets so hot under there you can smell the dirt burning on the sump plate
 
Point taken however when driving slowly up a rough single track rocky mountain pass in South Africa with outside temp running at near 40degres c you can understand the need to keep cool air flowing though the engine bay. It gets so hot under there you can smell the dirt burning on the sump plate

If you only want to run the fan manually on occasion? Could you not install an independent booster fan in front of the rad?
 
I dont think there is really space. for another fan my thoughts were to turn the fans on on the load side with oanother relay. That way the rest of the system should run as normal.
 
I dont think there is really space. for another fan my thoughts were to turn the fans on on the load side with oanother relay. That way the rest of the system should run as normal.

It would be possible to do that but, I think you would need to put a 25 Amp blocking diode on the control unit side of your connection. I don't know if the fan control unit would like 12 volts being shoved down it's output?? I did think a change over relay wired to feed 12 volts when switched on or normal fan control when switched off.
 

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