tomhop

tomhop

Active Member
Evening all, i have a 2001 TD5 Defender 90, i have started to notice that when pulling off from junctions it sometimes pulls away sluggishly then the turbo kicks in and its away, i gave the engine a full service (all fluids & filters) to see if that helped but it seems to be happening more regularly, is the turbo on its way out or is there something a little simpler (and cheaper)?
 
What can happen is that the turbo to intercooler and intercooler to intake pipes delaminate on the inside reducing the air flow.
Check these. Normally you can feel if they have gone as the pipe feels softer/easier to squash (by hand).
There are several silicone versions of these pipes available in a variety of colours.
These are good ( https://www.allisport.com/?s=ASH09&...ws_id=1&aws_filter=1&awscat=Form:1+Filter:All ) there are other/lower cost alternatives ...
 
On a TD5 it could also be a dirty sensor or other sensor fault. Might have nothing to do with the actual turbo. Were the engine oil and filter changed as per the service schedule all of it's life?
 
Last edited:
Al2O3 said:
On a TD5 it could also be a dirt sensor or other sensor fault. Might have nothing to do with the actual turbo. Were the engine oil and filter changed as per the service schedule all of it's life?
Click to expand...
as far as i am aware yes, i have owned the vehicle for about a year and a half now.
 
miktdish said:
What can happen is that the turbo to intercooler and intercooler to intake pipes delaminate on the inside reducing the air flow.
Check these. Normally you can feel if they have gone as the pipe feels softer/easier to squash (by hand).
There are several silicone versions of these pipes available in a variety of colours.
These are good ( https://www.allisport.com/?s=ASH09&post_type=product&type_aws=true&aws_id=1&aws_filter=1&awscat=Form:1+Filter:All ) there are other/lower cost alternatives ...
Click to expand...
thanks for that will go have a look, the Bearmach ones are about half the price their stuff is normally ok what are there hoses like?
 
i read a lot of stuff about the waste gate but assume that is only an issue at the top end of the boost not when its spooling up?
 
Check the actuator isn't sticky, mine was very gravelly, gave it a clean up and oil and OK now.
 
It may not be the turbo itself. The signal from the accelerator pedal to the injectors goes via the ECU. With one of my old ECUs, shortly before it failed there were a few occasions on which it was unusually sluggish pulling away, and then something seemed to reset itself and away it went. That's not particularly reassuring because an ECU is probably more expensive than a turbo these days.
 
Few mins work to check turbo, engine switched off and cold! remove rubber inlet trunking, look at turbine vanes, if they clean and spin freely with not to much wiggle on the shaft then its good to go, check wastegate with a pair of pliers, if ifs hard to lever out and springs back its good to go.
 
mine runs better keeping it over 2000 revs i drive at about 2000 and change up at about 2500 could be egr sticking open or part shut mines ran like that since doing injector seals dont worry its a landy could be a hundred things till it gets to a point you know what it is enjoy
 
Waste gate is seized solid, actuator is seized solid and two of the pipes on the turbo side of the engine look like they goosed, free’d off the waste gate tonight but new actuator and silicone pipes don’t arrive until tomorrow. Checked the leads to the ECU and looks like I have oil creep ‍♂️. Is there anyway of checking if it’s in the ECU itself?
 
tomhop said:
Waste gate is seized solid, actuator is seized solid and two of the pipes on the turbo side of the engine look like they goosed, free’d off the waste gate tonight but new actuator and silicone pipes don’t arrive until tomorrow. Checked the leads to the ECU and looks like I have oil creep ‍♂️. Is there anyway of checking if it’s in the ECU itself?
Click to expand...
Unplug the maf sensor as well, they are known for failing and causing the issue you described
 
Changed the actuator and put the new turbo pipes on, the 2 the turbo side of the engine went on simple enough but the one the drivers side would not go on no matter what I tried (bloody LR Center sent me Britpart ones instead of the Terra Firma ones I ordered) the old one was still good and it went back on with only a minor amount of swearing. But what a difference there is a lot more power and it is fairly instant.
 
bugger, took the landy out his afternoon and the problem seems to have returned, i have ordered an EGR blank and a new MAF sensor will fi and see if that fixes it, also wondering about an uprated intercooler?
 
tomhop said:
bugger, took the landy out his afternoon and the problem seems to have returned, i have ordered an EGR blank and a new MAF sensor will fi and see if that fixes it, also wondering about an uprated intercooler?
Click to expand...
Did you order a cheap, after market sensor? I've read bad things about those ones on here. If you sort the turbo issue out you won't need an uprated intercooler.
 
I am ashamed to admit I did order a Britpart one as it was £28 an original was £150, will it be totally useless?
The EGR blank is an Allisport one.
Some scumbags tried to steal the vehicle last night, luckily it has a very loud alarm and they scarppered. Hope they don’t come back.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.

Similar threads

heggars
Disco 1 Turbo air leak under boost
Replies
2
Views
747
heggars
heggars
S
Smoking from oil filler
Replies
4
Views
532
Skanny78
S
M
Sporadic lack of power at very low speed
Replies
6
Views
492
Meerkat1234
M
dconnrt
80's 110 - Braking pulling to the right in wet conditions
Replies
5
Views
564
dconnrt
dconnrt
spacebrodie
Freelander 2 (LR2) Cut out - P0045-19
Replies
6
Views
696
Arctic2
Arctic2