many thanks to both of you, I have read the threads on the breather filter - will whip that out in the morning to see if that helps - in terms of the intercooler pipework leakage - is that just oil I have drawn up due to the oil level or something else?
 
What we are talking about here air leakage - everything the turbo is blowing out isn't getting to the inlet manifold.

Check the turbo hoses for splits. You may find a hole at the back of the longest pipe from the intercooler to the top front cover where it rubs up against a screw head. Also the last pipe before the EGR valve - the 90 degree bend one - often can have a split on the underside out of sight.

Check the hoses with the engine running at about at least 1200 - 1500 rpm. Feel all around them and give them a good squeeze. You are searching for splits that may look like they were cut with a Stanley knife. They only open up and leak under pressure when the turbo is working.

The over fill of oil may well be a 'red herring'.
 
Get those two top hoses off and really check them for slits or porosity then can also collapse is limp and weak. Mine hade a small split in it for some time I think - same symptoms as yours then one day all hell broke loose - black smoke power right down and engine light on. All caused by the split finally opening up. Usually the elbow one - right side into the EGR.
d92b7d03-d784-a511.jpg


Also the crankcase breather mentioned - you can just whip it out you have relaxed it - get the BMW complete replacement - best £30 ish you will spend on the vehicle - fit and virtually forget.
 
again this makes sense, i have noticed a "rush of air noise" in the engine compartment when the turbo spools, i originally thought it was the turbo - it could well be a rush of air from one of these hoses - thanks guys, I have a busy morning ahead of me tomorrow - I appreciate the effort you are all throwing into my thread
 
the sound I was getting sounds like putting the vent fan on full blast in the car, but somewhere behind the dash - I originally thought it was the ventilation system playing up -
so im taking it that the smoke is unburned fuel - the turbo is spooling - setting the fuel schedule, however the air is being lost so the fuel air ratio is wrong - hey presto incomplete combustion ... its all making sense
 
I hope all the info has helped you get your head round the idiosyncrasies of the M47R.

This forum has been invaluable to me. I watched and read posts for a long time before I registered.

Please let us know how you get on tomorrow.

Too many people don't get back with the end result.

This forum loves to get feedback.

Have fun tomorrow. :D:D
 
NavyReg1970 said:
As usual, im a new member, joined to discuss a fault - please dont all go derrrrr thats obvious you dimlow, Im an engineer by trade but not a mechanic and would hate to bugger things up.

I have a freelander 2.0 td4 on a BT54 plate

2 days ago I noticed the tone had changed on my turbo, more of an air rush than the usual turbo whistle/whine - it reminded me of the sound of putting the console fan on full blast - but sat in the drivers seat it was coming from in the engine compartment

The turbo may be shot, but im trying to rule out all other possibilities first.

the computer is giving a fault code of P0046 - turbo solenoid operating issue.

the car idles fine and when accelerating gently is fine, however the moment i hear the turbo start spooling up i get excessive black smoke and acceleration is sluggish. At 50 mph i get the worst symptoms, the turbo sounds like it is "on the hairy edge" coming in and out every few seconds even when at constant speed. At 70mph the smoke reduces and the car drives ok - little bit of smoke though.

another problem - which may be a side issue... I think I may have fuel ingress into the oil. It dipped half an inch over high level yesterday so i drained some off.

here come the questions..

1. with the turbo spooling fine does this sound like a turbo or waste gate/solenoid issue.
2. is it best practice to change both at the same time
3. does the fuel ingress sound like leakage from the full pump into the crank case (to be honest i couldnt smell diesel but there was no emulsification and the coolant level is steady)
4. Could fuel thinnig the oil and the subsequent rise in oil level result in a reduced oil pressure sufficient to effect the operation of the turbo
5. could it be something as daft as the waste gate vent filter fouled (wishful thinking it would be something that simple)

Im sorry if this first thread is just a pile of questions

regards

Lee
Click to expand...
classic case of split turbo hose:)
 
ok, here we go,

pcv filter completely clogged with crud

EGR valve full of crud - i think its been stuck open for a long time

intercooler hoses - both have MASSIVE splits in the undersides

had a look in the air manifold through the EGR valve opening - dipped my finger in, fair bit of crud.

im off to get some spares......
 
OK, the results of all the hard work

intercooler hoses changed

EGR cleaned and replaced

PCV filter removed (bmw mod ordered) it was completely choked

..... took it out for a test run

The car is running smoother than when i bought it, turbo lag has gone, acceleration has improved, everything is much quieter under the bonnet and most importantly, no more smoke even when flooring it on a hill to get the box to kick down.

Guys your help and advice has been invaluable - thanks very much, my local garage was adamant the turbo was blown. It just shows where the real experts can be found

once again many thanks indeed
 
:D:D Super - well done - another success for LandyZone :D:D

I'm very happy we were able to help and also save you the cost of a new turbo. But how many others have just fitted a new turbo as advised and paid the huge bill? :mad:

Now that the air-intake and hoses are clean, you can keep them clean by disconnecting the little vacuum hose on the EGR and plugging it off. This disables the valve.

You do not need an EGR - it was a ploy used by the manufactures as a sop to the EU pollution regs. It allows hot sooty exhaust gasses to mix with the clean, but oily, air from the turbo. So it reduces the efficiency (cool air is better) and produces the syrupy crud you spent the morning cleaning. :(

If you want to go a stage further than disabling it, you can buy an EGR by-pass kit to improve the air flow to the intake manifold. The now inactive valve restricts the size of the pipe.

Lots of info & differing opinions on how best to do it - just search on here for EGR by-pass.

I and many others feel our engines run better if unrestricted by an EGR.
Removing it does not affect the MOT test in any way. :)

Have you got your finger nails clean of the black crud yet?? :cool:
 
NavyReg1970 said:
that crud just doesnt come out of fingernails at all
Click to expand...

Oooh yes it does!! :rolleyes:

You have 2 choices:

No. 1. Wait three or four weeks - you will never know the difference.
No. 2. Use a nail brush and the Multi-Purpose De-greaser from Lidl.

That's the one in the orange spray bottle. Nothing else seems to work. I now use it for all sorts of jobs around the car - it's even great for getting rid of the green that appears around the door window seals. Wife's not getting it back - she'll have to buy another! :D
 
Just a quick update, since changing the intercooler hoses & the crankcase breather filter I am getting an extra 80-100 miles per tank.
I am getting a major service tomorrow as I just received the service history and found its 18,000 miles since the last service !!!!!! no wonder the seller hummed and arred about finding the service book

Have explained all this to the garage (landy specialist in Hoddesdon) who will give it a right good going over -

I will let you know how it drives after the work.......
 
NavyReg1970 said:
Just a quick update, since changing the intercooler hoses & the crankcase breather filter I am getting an extra 80-100 miles per tank.
I am getting a major service tomorrow as I just received the service history and found its 18,000 miles since the last service !!!!!! no wonder the seller hummed and arred about finding the service book

Have explained all this to the garage (landy specialist in Hoddesdon) who will give it a right good going over -

I will let you know how it drives after the work.......
Click to expand...

Are we talking about FOLEY by any chance?
Been there a few times, very helpful and know there stuff but quite expensive.
 
No its gone to AJD Landrovers, I went there as they are 200 yds from where I work, he always looks busy with lots of obviously modded offroaders going through his doors, we shall see later when i pick it up. I was quoted £280 + vat for a 30,000 service - with a few extra little things I have asked him to look at. I explained it was well overdue so would need the extra scrutiny
 
check the turbo hoses a tiny little crack or hole will make plenty of Black smoke and be down on accelerating alway a first thing to check then the others if one has a crack in it the outside of it will be coated in diesel hope this helps
 
All was well after the service - however the niggly alternator issue reared its ugly head driving home today after a week without issue - 5 minutes after starting the drive home the alternator light flickered on and off, then stayed on for about 2 minutes. I was at a steady 55mph on a smooth flat road.

My initial thought is its a slipping belt as I kicked down a gear - and the light cut out for a few seconds. after the 2 mins the light extinguished and stayed off for the rest of the drive home.

This is the fourth time this has happened in the last 3 weeks, always around 5 mins after setting off, always for 1-2 mins then off for the rest of the journey - its never happened when driving difficult / bumpy roads so I dont think its anything loose.

so here are my thoughts:
loose belt
or weak battery - its only happened when driving with stereo on, fan & headlights on after the car has been parked overnight / after work, I am thinking maybe just after the effort of starting, the load on the system is dropping the battery down - causing the light to illuminate - eventually the alternator manages to get the battery back up to normal and the light goes out - or am i talking out of my 'Arris ?

would a slipping belt tend to present the fault during rapid acceleration rather than when at a steady speed (2000 rpm)

final thought, when i changed the intercooler hoses I disconnected a water hose to improve access and may have dropped a pint of antifreeze dosed water onto the alternator - are they waterproof? can i clean it? have i knacked it?

will get my head under the bonnet tomorrow.....
 
how tight should the belt be on the alternator, i can move it an inch if i pull on it / can twist it through 90 degrees - i seem to remember the one on my megane was much tighter
 
am i able to retension it from above or am i going to have to faff about - i think i might just take it to the garage and ask them to change the belt
 
You must log in or register to reply here.

Similar threads

S
Freelander 1 Turbo whistle gone suddenly (SOLVED)
Replies
6
Views
452
hd3
hd3
M
freelander 1 td4 no turbo boost
Replies
10
Views
965
MGT
M
ggrupea
Freelander TD4 vacuum hose servo EGR and turbo
Replies
9
Views
570
ggrupea
ggrupea
Spanky-spangler
Freelander 2 remap
Replies
10
Views
653
WhiskyLassie
WhiskyLassie
H
Hi everyone
Replies
2
Views
668
Nodge68
Nodge68