lynall said:

Heat proof sleeving on ebay.
Ps just guessed size, https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Silicone...530298?hash=item3fe5ee297a:g:6hEAAOSw-q5fHsCA

I forgot to ask, what exactly are you making?

Click to expand...

Now that's interesting stuff! That's tremendous that, lynall. Cheers.

I'm trying to make a return pipe from the turbo that doesn't restrict the oil as it heads towards the sump.
This is how the end of the pipe normally lines up with the union on the block.


JM suggested I rotated the turbo cartridge to see if that would help, so I did and it got to here.


When I pull the pipe across to the union it sits like this.

The pipe is already bent and kinked in this position, but you can see that the end of the pipe does not sit square on in the union. When I tighten it up the kink gets worse.
It's a mystery, because since the rebuild the turbo return pipe does not fit properly. I'm on to my third turbo and about four return pipes. My homemade one will be number five.

Re the oil stat it may have opened even before 93C not sure if it’s stamped , Britannia restorations tested one I think

steve2286w said:

Re the oil stat it may have opened even before 93C not sure if it’s stamped , Britannia restorationsView attachment 221159 tested one I think

Click to expand...

Cheers, Steve. Good to know!

Are you sure you do not have an oil supply problem?
I have heard/read of similair on cars (normally vag motors at the time) original turbo fail, new turbo, it fails soon after then they twigged it was oil supply problem, in this case (lots of tthem in fact so many there were yards full of cars waiting for back ordered parts) it was the oil pump drive hex key rounding out and slipping, so it would supply some oil so appeared ok, but not enough to the estremities such as the turbo.

I realise 300 pump is crank driven, but what actually transmits the drive from crank to pump? could there be an oil seal failure between pick up gauze to oil pump so sucking air in with the oil?

lynall said:

Are you sure you do not have an oil supply problem?
I have heard/read of similair on cars (normally vag motors at the time) original turbo fail, new turbo, it fails soon after then they twigged it was oil supply problem, in this case (lots of tthem in fact so many there were yards full of cars waiting for back ordered parts) it was the oil pump drive hex key rounding out and slipping, so it would supply some oil so appeared ok, but not enough to the estremities such as the turbo.

I realise 300 pump is crank driven, but what actually transmits the drive from crank to pump? could there be an oil seal failure between pick up gauze to oil pump so sucking air in with the oil?

Click to expand...

No, I'm not sure.
I do get a lot of oil coming through the turbo and in to the induction pipework though, hence the oil consumption. Which is the nub of the problem. The turbo seems to be working too as the Landy goes well enough.
It's a bloody mystery to me, mate, honestly I'm willing to listen to any ideas though!
I'm struggling to find pipe online that does high temp, oil and is reinforced. I've found a couple of UK companies that I'm going to call in the morning RALCO and MOCAP there's also a place called Hose World just over the border in Berwickshire.
I'm tempted to try it with the set up I've created today It's booked in for the MOT on Monday, so will have to be on the road for that day at least. I do have a spare standard return pipe I can loosely fit on in the meantime.

I would say if you have oil coming though the trubine shaft you have a seal failure which has got to be either poor recon or lack of oil wrecking the bearing which then damages the seals.

How much is a new turbo, new as in new new?

I am sure there are a few threads on here where people have replaced the turbo cartridge themselves with cheapies from China 100 quid ish?

Only a 9 foot long reel! but maybe what you need?
Amazon product

lynall said:

I would say if you have oil coming though the trubine shaft you have a seal failure which has got to be either poor recon or lack of oil wrecking the bearing which then damages the seals.

How much is a new turbo, new as in new new?

I am sure there are a few threads on here where people have replaced the turbo cartridge themselves with cheapies from China 100 quid ish?

Click to expand...

This one was new new from Turner Engineering and its been on since December last year, so about 11 months. It cost £499 inc VAT back then.
What do you mean by poor recon?

Forgot to say I replaced the oil rotor (pump) when I rebuilt the engine.
Here's the new one I bought from Turners

Here it is in the housing, crank driven as you say.


And it's got a cover

I fitted an oil pressure gauge and it's about 4bar at start up on these cold mornings and drops to under 3bar when hot.

Al2O3 said:

This one was new new from Turner Engineering and its been on since December last year, so about 11 months. It cost £499 inc VAT back then.
What do you mean by poor recon?

Click to expand...

I meant poor as in cheap, did not realise you had a turner unit on there.
Have you spoke to Turners about your issue, to see what their take on it is?

Where I work we have 150 trucks, and we might change two turbos a year, 140 of them trucks do 100k per year, so that is

two turbos in 14000000 kms, it is considered very unusual for a turbo to fail, many of the trucks are at a million kms.
So for you to have so many fail is mega unusual.

Al2O3 said:

Forgot to say I replaced the oil rotor (pump) when I rebuilt the engine.
Here's the new one I bought from Turners
View attachment 221172
Here it is in the housing, crank driven as you say.
View attachment 221175

And it's got a cover
View attachment 221176

Click to expand...

Is there a seal/o-ring/gasket between that cover and the oil pump rotors?

lynall said:

I meant poor as in cheap, did not realise you had a turner unit on there.
Have you spoke to Turners about your issue, to see what their take on it is?

Where I work we have 150 trucks, and we might change two turbos a year, 140 of them trucks do 100k per year, so that is

two turbos in 14000000 kms, it is considered very unusual for a turbo to fail, many of the trucks are at a million kms.
So for you to have so many fail is mega unusual.

Click to expand...

Sorry for late reply. Wasn't raining today so I've been changing the clutch in my son's Citroen C3.

Ah, I see what you mean. Yes, when I did the engine rebuild I replaced the turbo with a reconditioned one, which was cheaper than a brand new one.
There was an issue with that one straight away. It didn't boost very well and I'd noticed that the blades didn't spin very easily when I was fitting it. The passing oil issue started straight away with this one. I complained to the company about it passing oil and they swapped it. The replacement transformed the Landy it terms of power and acceleration, so there obviously was something wrong with the turbo's ability to spool up as well as passing oil. However, the replacement also passed oil in to the induction system Can't remember now at which stage I realised the return pipe was kinked. Also, I'd done a lot of googling and the consensus for turbos passing oil was a restriction in the return pipe of the fitting for the return pipe being below the oil level in the sump. So, I've fannied on for about 18 months with several return pipes. However, that misalignment of the pipe to the union I have not been able to overcome.
In the middle of this I've also taken the cylinder head back of in order to check the honing. I had the valves checked and new stems put in for the exhaust valves. I took the pistons back out because a huge amount of carbon had built up around the crowns and so I cleaned them. I also took the pressure valve back out and checked that it was sliding smoothly in the housing.
After a bit more faffing about with return pipes from the second recon turbo I thought I might as well bite the bullet and buy a brand new one. Which is what the current one is that I bought from Turners.
I can only think that the issue is with the ill fitting return pipe and not the turbos.

lynall said:

Is there a seal/o-ring/gasket between that cover and the oil pump rotors?

Click to expand...

No, there was no gasket on it. Just a well machined face for the plate to fit on to.