tylerd

Member
Hi, I have a 2005 TD4 Freestyle.

Last year I had a problem where the large S shaped(ish) intercooler pipe on the left hand side of the air temp sensor developed a split and was resulting in lack of power and making sounds like a dyson when the revs were above 2500rpm. I replaced it with a genuine LR spare.

Last week I developed the same fault again. After reading up on the problem, I see it is a common-ish fault due to the hose rubbing on the engine.

I removed the hose and could see a fingerprint sized dent in the expected location with a pin prick sized hole in the middle of it.
So I ordered another replacement and fitted it, this time protecting it with a piece cut from the damaged hose and jubilee clipped on.

I took it for a test drive and thought all was fixed.
A couple of days later a started to hear the familiar blowing sound again.
I got home and removed all the hoses and visually inspected them but i couldn't see any obvious holes so i refitted them making sure that all the clips were suitably tight, just in case i hadn't put enough torque on them when i fitted them last time.

This hasn't fixed the problem though.

My issue is how to i track down the problem.

The "blowing" sound only occurs when i am actually driving with the revs above 2000. If i sit in my driveway and rev the nuts off it, it wont make the blowing sound.

Is the an easy-ish way to track down if there is a hole or maybe a weak jubilee clip?
I was thinking of wrapping wet toilet roll around the hoses and joints and driving round the block to see i it blows any holes in it but that may just make a mess and not work?

I do intend replacing all the hoses with silicone when i have a spare £100 but that is a couple of months down the line on the house hold priority list ;-)

Any ideas are gratefully received.

James
 
hi you checked the input air hose on the bottom of the turbo has not come off there is not a clip on it as it is just shoved on that will give a whooshing sound
 
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I've visually checked all the hoses but I'm guessing it could be a pin prick hole or maybe even a clip that's not tight enough. Problem is I cant track it down.

If I drive it and let the whoosing go on too long without dropping the revs, the orange engine management light comes on now and it goes into limp home mode. Have to restart the engine to clear it.
 
I've just spent an hour removing all the hoses, cleaning them and replacing them.
I've just taken it for a test drive and it is still whistling, its almost a hollow whistle if that makes sense?

I have just come across something else.
The inter cooler seems to have a bit of play in it where the pipe connects. I can move it backwards and forwards a couple of centimetres.

As i am standing at the front of the engine looking towards the rear, it is where the bottom right pipe connects to it on the radiator side, not the engine side.
(This isn't my car but it shows where i mean)

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Does anybody have a quick guide to inspecting the intercooler, or even how i get to it?
 
I got my hoses from here: Land Rover Hose Kits

I can't remember which kit I bought- the 3 hose kit I think, but I had to cut the hose on the left (as shown in the pic above) to fit the sensor in. Worked out fine and a lot cheaper than anywhere else and when I fitted it, I managed to position it so that no part of the hose rubbed on anything. Cost me £83 total, but looks like prices gone up. Mines red too!
 
If it is a hollow sound, perhaps its air being forced out of the filter on the end of the open ended vaccuum pipe attached to the boost control valve/solenoid. I forget what this vent filter is called, but if the turbo vanes are sticking or the boost valve is damaged then it could be venting instead of operating the actuator on the turbo. The management light might come on because of over or underboosting. If you have a code scanner, you may get some further indication of the cause.
 
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If it is a hollow sound, perhaps its air being forced out of the filter on the end of the open ended vaccuum pipe attached to the boost control valve/solenoid. I forget what this vent filter is called, but if the turbo vanes are sticking or the boost valve is damaged then it could be venting instead of operating the actuator on the turbo. The management light might come on because of over or underboosting. If you have a code scanner, you may get some further indication of the cause.

it is called turbo vent filter
 

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