ozzyboydeano
Well-Known Member
you also have to take into consideration power to weight ratio compared to others
the TD5 discovery weight just over 2 ton considering the TD5 is only a 2.5 litre engine (SMALL ENGINE) so basically then buy the time you add bar work and accessories the vehicle is now closer to 3 ton...... the only way this Td5 can pull the amount of weight is all turbo work this is very hard to do when trying to nurse in or a slow drive as the slightest could be any where from 5 to 10 psi how ever using TD5 is actually does have a nice torque
other example the 4jx1 turbo diesel engine is a 3 litre this is installed on a vehicle that weights in under 2 ton even though this is a bigger engine than the TD5.... boost levels peak earlier than the td5 ....also 3 litre is a bigger engine it has a lower tow rating than TD5
this is why i installed a accumulator tank to my TD5 and on not my 2 litre ford. as boost levels are really low when nursing the car ... as boost levels vary from vehicle to vehicle (engine load )
this is why I recommend to fit a boost gauge to any turbo engine this actually gives you a better idea of what is going on ..... like nursing my 2 litre before shut down maybe 2 or 3 psi compared to the old landrover td5 that uses the same road and speed that may be 7 to 10 psi
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ozzyboydeano
Well-Known Member
are you referring to a engine runaway ? full boost as the engine oil is now the fuel supply and there is no regulation
when the turbo seizes up yes the engine will run in vac depending on engine load
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LennyK
Member
No just on overrun e.g. coasting down hill with foot off of the accelerator and throttle closed.
jamesmartin
Well-Known Member
petrols have a butterfly valve to control the air, when idling valve is shut ,diesel have no butterfly so air is never restricted so causing a vacuum
ozzyboydeano
Well-Known Member
the butterfly flap is for the EGR system not an actual throttle position.... the butterfly opens and closes this does create a pressure drop to allow exhaust gasses to be pulled from another loacation but this system isn't active at all times and isn't active in the complete rev and engine loads
however I can relate to what your trying to say..... as I have a boost gauge installed .. coasting or engine braking there is no vacuum
one of the reasons there is a vac pump on the rear of the alternator
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LennyK
Member
Sooooo… after a couple weeks of constant shifts and miserable weather am back into it today.
Just a little oil*** in the inlet pipe leading to the inter-cooler
Have pressure tested the system from the turbo side to the inlet manifold side and it holds 14lbs/in2 no problems and will repeat when it goes back together so that there should be no problems causing over spooling etc.
Then pulled the inter-cooler and pipework out and flushed it out; all clean and no nasty bits from the disintegrating turbo.
Bad stuff….inlet manifold is full of sludge and exhaust manifold is full of oil, so quite a lot of oil went through the engine which might have accounted for the engine knock heard just before shutdown. Anyone have any thoughts???
Just a little oil*** in the inlet pipe leading to the inter-cooler
Have pressure tested the system from the turbo side to the inlet manifold side and it holds 14lbs/in2 no problems and will repeat when it goes back together so that there should be no problems causing over spooling etc.
Then pulled the inter-cooler and pipework out and flushed it out; all clean and no nasty bits from the disintegrating turbo.
Bad stuff….inlet manifold is full of sludge and exhaust manifold is full of oil, so quite a lot of oil went through the engine which might have accounted for the engine knock heard just before shutdown. Anyone have any thoughts???
Gazbo
Well-Known Member
Your engine may have started ingesting engine oil, that usually gives a lot of "diesel knock" as the oil is in droplet form, it doesn't combust as well as diesel and it is being introduced with the air, and not injected and it only takes a small amount of oil droplets to set it off, that could have caused the knocking noise.Sooooo… after a couple weeks of constant shifts and miserable weather am back into it today.
View attachment 130490
Just a little oil*** in the inlet pipe leading to the inter-cooler
View attachment 130491
raywin
Well-Known Member
If you still have the EGR fitted the muck in the manifold will be from that remember the EGR is downstream of the turbo and so it will not put any soot on the turbo blades, as you feared earlier, but it puts loads of crap into the manifold especial if it gets old and the EGR valve is not shutting tight so it weeps muck all the time.Sooooo… after a couple weeks of constant shifts and miserable weather am back into it today.
View attachment 130490
Just a little oil*** in the inlet pipe leading to the inter-cooler
View attachment 130491
Have pressure tested the system from the turbo side to the inlet manifold side and it holds 14lbs/in2 no problems and will repeat when it goes back together so that there should be no problems causing over spooling etc.
Then pulled the inter-cooler and pipework out and flushed it out; all clean and no nasty bits from the disintegrating turbo.
I bought a blanking kit for mine and when I fitted it I took off the manifold and took it to a local farmers jet wash where I blasted it clean and then dried it I don't really notice any big improvement on power or economy but at least its not pushing oily exhaust into the manifold and through the inlet valves.
As with many here my TD5 has now done 120 K miles and turbo works OK some very slight axial play but its almost nothing, look at some of the threads and people report TD5s which have traveled star-ship mileage and still go well.
Turbo is a highly stressed component acceleration and surprisingly deceleration are pretty extreme I think you can say it is not a badly flawed design and just need to drive it using a bit of common sense, cant imagine why anyone would shut one down when its boosting unless they had some kind of death wish on their bank account, I stop pull on the handbrake take off the seat belt and turn off the key, and change the fully synthetic oil regularly, works for me.
LennyK
Member
I'm hoping for something like that. Pulled the pre-heaters out the other day and only No 1 cylinder was fouled. Am waiting for some days off and weather above zero to have another crack. We're sooks over here. Am thinking about taking the sump off to check the conrods. Can give it a cleanout and check the oil pump bolt as well.
