I know I will get shot to pieces now....but here goes...been running tubeless tyres on my tubed type rims for many rears now with not the slightest problem.
Tubeless tyres are much more reliable than tubed tyres and in the main can be self sealing on the likes of screws ect.
Just remember if puncher-ed they tend to deflate slowly where a tube tyre can quickly loose its air....and the stuff about the tyre parting company with the rim is basically tosh....if a tube tyre goes flat it will behave EXACTLY the same as a tubeless tyre ie...it may or may not come away from the rim.
I drive heavy trucks for a living...and all modern trucks run on tubeless tyres....the very latest tubeless truck rims have NO so called safety bead.
If its good enough for a heavy truck its good enough for my comparatively light Landrover....as I say I am speaking with many many year of use...big weight saving as well.
You pays you money ect ect.
I'm happy.
Nick.
Tubeless tyres are much more reliable than tubed tyres and in the main can be self sealing on the likes of screws ect.
Just remember if puncher-ed they tend to deflate slowly where a tube tyre can quickly loose its air....and the stuff about the tyre parting company with the rim is basically tosh....if a tube tyre goes flat it will behave EXACTLY the same as a tubeless tyre ie...it may or may not come away from the rim.
I drive heavy trucks for a living...and all modern trucks run on tubeless tyres....the very latest tubeless truck rims have NO so called safety bead.
If its good enough for a heavy truck its good enough for my comparatively light Landrover....as I say I am speaking with many many year of use...big weight saving as well.
You pays you money ect ect.
I'm happy.
Nick.
Just to be clear, my point about the tyres coming off the rim, I actuall should have said bead coming loose to the tyre looses stability, in my expreince is much more common with a tubed tyre on a tube type rim. the tube tyre goes down faster and there no bead retainer to hold the beads to the rim. I've had a lot of punctures over the years, tubed and tubeless, and in every case the tubeless stayed on the rim, in one of 2 tubed it came off.
Extreedoc
Well-Known Member
Just to clarify for the sake of those who aren't clear what we mean when we say: "the tyre can come off", we are talking about the tyre dropping into the well on the rim, not coming right off the wheel altogether. The fact is that a tubeless tyre will still drop into the well but it needs a lot more provocation before that happens and as others have said: a tubeless tyre is less likely to lose all its air very quickly than a tubed one. If the tyre drops into the well of the rim the vehicle will be much harder to control until you manage to stop it.
The fact remains that tubeless tyres on a tubed rim are illegal and for that reason as well as the safety aspect, should be avoided.
The fact remains that tubeless tyres on a tubed rim are illegal and for that reason as well as the safety aspect, should be avoided.
"The fact remains that tubeless tyres on a tubed rim are illegal and for that reason as well as the safety aspect, should be avoided"
Are you sure...my brand new 32t 8 wheel truck does NOT have safety beads.
No reason why they would be any more dangerous than running on a flat tubed tyre...think about it.
Are you sure...my brand new 32t 8 wheel truck does NOT have safety beads.
No reason why they would be any more dangerous than running on a flat tubed tyre...think about it.
Extreedoc
Well-Known Member
Fairly sure, yes. Do you perhaps remember the discussion we had on this subject on LRUK when I bought some Modular rims? Somebody posted a link to an EU document which went into this. I will try to find it and post the same link here if I can. As to the truck wheel, I can't say.
Extreedoc
Well-Known Member
Here is the link to the thread I mentioned; at post 28 Rob posted the link to the EU document. Go to the chapter on "Rims" and read from page 9 to 12.
https://www.lrukforums.com/threads/going-tubeless.203305/
https://www.lrukforums.com/threads/going-tubeless.203305/
Extreedoc
Well-Known Member
That's fine, I certainly don't want us to fall out over a difference of opinion.
flat
Well-Known Member
If you have another Landy handy you can also drive over the edge of the tyre to crack the bead lol
Turboman
Mab An Gov
Or if you only have one, lay the wheel flat, place a block of wood on the side of the tyre, and let the drum down gently off the jack onto the wood on the tyre.
Turboman
Mab An Gov
You can tell if there is a tube in there without removing the tyres. The valves are different on tubes. Also, on tubeless rims, the hole for the valve stem will be bigger.
Personally, I have tubes in my tube type tyres, but they are on tubeless rims. Not had any issues.
In 35 years of landrover operation, I have only had 3 punctures, and those were all in my own yard. Landrover tyres are pretty thick. And if they are in good nick, and the tubes likewise, it will take a large nail to puncture them.
Webley1991
Well-Known Member
I picked up a set of Kingpin Mud Tracker remoulds in size 205R16 Today.
I thought they were quite good value at £54 each. In my opinion they also look more Series like. Now to get the wheels sand blasted and painted. The vehicle will have to sit on blocks of wood without wheels for a while as that gets done. I did have another set of the same wheels, but unfortunately sold them thinking they were taking up space and I would never use them.
For anyone wanting to change tyres themselves, surely the military split rims with the bolts are the best option for that.
I thought they were quite good value at £54 each. In my opinion they also look more Series like. Now to get the wheels sand blasted and painted. The vehicle will have to sit on blocks of wood without wheels for a while as that gets done. I did have another set of the same wheels, but unfortunately sold them thinking they were taking up space and I would never use them.
For anyone wanting to change tyres themselves, surely the military split rims with the bolts are the best option for that.
As someone who has read (and fell asleep doing so) the EU docs there are some important weezle words in the annexes. It is safe to use a tubless tyre as a tubed tyre so long as the maker or tyre says you can. I run 235/85 BFGs on tubed rims and I'm confident that is safe becuase the tyre says it can be used with tubes and I fit tubes so I am using it as a "tubed tyre". What this means is it is safe and leagal to use tubless tyre on tubed rims so long as they are suitable to be used as a "tubed tyre" and are installed and run as a "tubed tyre". This will be as safe and leagal as a tubed tyre on a tubed rim which as we all know is not quite as safe as a tubeless tyre on a tubeless rim but that's because technology has moved on, not because its wrong. That's how we run drum brakes and are not required to update to disks.
A bold 2nd post from me I guess, but it might make you laugh , when I bought my s3 it had 265/75r16 Insa turbo dakars squeezed onto the original swb tubed rims, I'm not joking ! I ran them for about a year before taking an interest in what rims I had on, before changing to defender take offs. Didn't have any problems but when I realised quite what the set up was I didn't want to risk something happening. I'll try and post a picture when I figure out how
blue beasty
Leaks an prone to bits dropping off
A bold 2nd post from me I guess, but it might make you laugh , when I bought my s3 it had 265/75r16 Insa turbo dakars squeezed onto the original swb tubed rims, I'm not joking ! I ran them for about a year before taking an interest in what rims I had on, before changing to defender take offs. Didn't have any problems but when I realised quite what the set up was I didn't want to risk something happening. I'll try and post a picture when I figure out how
It's amazing what people do and get away with......for a while
Use the 'upload a file' button in the reply box to upload pics.
When I bought my Series it had 3 radials and one crossply, the radials were 205s and the cross ply was a 7.50 so it was about 2" bigger dia. The MOT was a couple of weeks old. The odd tyre was on the front and amazingly it drove ok - I had a 60 mile drive home mostly on the M25. It sat so lopsided I thought a spring had gone. I was probably more focuseed on the discovery that the lights didn't work and it was getting dark. Odd because I checked all these things when I viewed it the week before. A few months later I was looking at the MOT and noticed the tester's name was the same as the seller; could this explain anything I wonder?
nathanglasgow
Active Member
Run the same KP 205R16 MT on my 1967 swb ex mil. Fitted on mil split rims with tubes and yes fixing punctures with the split rims is easy. It's only easy though as they are blasted and painted so not glued together with rust. Had to fix puncture when driving the North Coast 500 this summer
