Trailpug

New Member
Quick one,
Am i correct in thinking to take the tub floor out on a Defender all i need to do is drill out all the rivets give it a tap and job done?????
 
Quick one,
Am i correct in thinking to take the tub floor out on a Defender all i need to do is drill out all the rivets give it a tap and job done?????

Yes, but it doesn't actually go as easily as it sounds. The above description could have you believe it's a 10 minute job...

Rivets on the floor near the bulkhead cannot be easily drilled unless you have a right angle drill and short drill bit or need ground down and generally it's not quick. So allow time.
 
Cheers Discomania,
I was looking at them this morning and having a think about how to get at them no right angle drill so may have to bodge something up....
 
Got to agree with doc :eek: Welding would be much easier with it out of the way. Tubs not a bad job to remove either.
 
middle crossmember, seatbox and rear crossmember then just unplug the lights and remove fuel tank filler pipe before lifting off

roof too obviously

easy to lift tub on and off with a mate
 
Hi. Want to renew rear x member on my defender 110. 1997 county would it be best if I take back floor out had a look the floor has 4 pop rivets the rest are oval headed x 20 which will have to be ground out ,,is there an easier way or do I need to remove the floor Help please. RASCO
 
Hi. Want to renew rear x member on my defender 110. 1997 county would it be best if I take back floor out had a look the floor has 4 pop rivets the rest are oval headed x 20 which will have to be ground out ,,is there an easier way or do I need to remove the floor Help please. RASCO


Nice :rolleyes: How about popping over to the introduce yourself part of the forum before jumping in with your questions.
 

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