Disco2rover

Disco2rover

New Member
hello my tranny or transfer case is whining from like 30 mph + i dont know if its normal probably not? i checked the gear oil and its full should i replace it? would that fix the whining or is it the transmission ? also is there a way to replace the gear oil in the center diff or does it get lubricated from the gear oil in the transfer case. i just replaced the rear diff fluid it looked like chocolate milk all whitish brown and nasty i guess water got in somehow and i topped off the front diff since it looked decent. i still have a clunking noise from the front somewhere when i get on the gas after coasting the driveshaft looks fine to me no play in the uni joints :scratching_chin: i dont know what to do i just dont want to brake **** and be stranded id rather find the worn parts before hand. thanks guys any input helps
 
Hi, in a certain order:

1. The center diff is part of the Transfer Box....same oil circulating through both
2. Replaceing the oil in the TB if it's very old might help....use Texaco multi-gear 75W/90R same as in the diffs...u wouldnt believe how important is to use the proper oil in these things....especially in the gearbox when u must use Texaco MTF 94.
3. Put a greasing gun on all the UJ's
4. The clunk and the whining might be related(or not) and could have many reasons, first choice(just for whining) are the wheel hubs, these used to whine when the bearing within gets tired.. some times the 3 amigos will tell u that.... jack up the front and spin as hard as u can each wheel with your hand and listen carefully.
5. The clunk is the result of a play somewhere along transmission link CVJ > Diff > UJ's > TB itself ... for that u have to investigate harder(i'm sure u'll get other ideas too)
I'd say first of all do the simple things like oil changes and greasing... see what happens
 
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transfer box needs oil changing annually at least ,water contamination is often found through condensation,same with gear box and axles,brgs and gears dont like it ,center diff is part of main case and uses same oil ,drain both g/box and t/ box and check oil for contamination might lead you to which is whinning ,you can also remove sump on t/box and check freeplay in gears of which there should be none on input gear ,intermediate gear cluster and gears will have some on center diff but diff shouldnt also check gear teeth for fine straight lines 90 degrees to tooth as this means teeth wearing tooth should look polished if not change box as q type have a habit of shedding teeth ,with experience you can tell the difference of brg whine and gear whine not sure what yours is but also remove one prop at time and drive in diff lock to help locate noise front diff can sound like t/ box ,while prop off check out put brgs by turning t/box drive flanges and same at diff
 
ive used molyslip in my transferbox and it definately quieten things down... think ive put about 150ml in....

search for it on ebay
 
[JP];1402286 said:
ive used molyslip in my transferbox and it definately quieten things down... think ive put about 150ml in....

search for it on ebay
Click to expand...

Be VERY careful about putting it in a gearbox tho - it can **** up synchros.
 
Use a thick lube such as EP90 and the first casualty may well be the fibre oil pump within the LT77.
 
Just as a note, I thought I had gearbox whine on my d1.

Was ok in 1&2, started in 3, worse in 4, bad in 5.

I thought it was box bearing etc. Then reverse gear went.

Removed box and had it reconned, still there. Must be transfer box I thought but left it.

Then fitted lockers and noise went away, and the car I swapped with started whining.

Both my original diffs had suffered pitted teeth from water damage.

If you've had water in your back axle it could be same thing. I was CERTAIN the noise was coming from the gearbox, but in reality it was just being transmitted up the propshafts.

Worth removing rear prop and go for a drive in diff lock and see what happens before you suspect your gearbox!

Cheers
 
fanatic said:
Use a thick lube such as EP90 and the first casualty may well be the fibre oil pump within the LT77.
Click to expand...

Is that statement valid for the LT230SE too fitted on D2 ? ...coz that's what we are talking about here and i really dont know much about transfer boxes......believe me i'm actually interested not trying to correct u.
 
no pump in the transfer box........

And I would tend to agree with the post ref the whine is more likely to be a diff worn out.
 
hi what is lockers sorry that im not very good with landys im not being ignorant maybe i am just plain stupid but i have the same problem on my 1998 disco it whines in 3rd a bit louder in 4th and louder again in 5th sounds to me it coming from rear diff sometimes then i think it must be the box as its in 3rd 4th and 5th only .its not there when i let off gas just when i put on the gas so that is why im asking what lockers are thanks
 
The Mad Hat Man said:
Be VERY careful about putting it in a gearbox tho - it can **** up synchros.
Click to expand...

that's why I used in my transferbox.... Molyslip Slick G restore...
and put a bit in the diffs too.

Molyslip 2001® slick G restore UR Gearbox 50 xbeter on eBay (end time 02-Mar-11 11:21:14 GMT)

definately worked...

for the gearbox there's Molyslip Multiglide ATF, which I still have to put in the gearbox, probably tomorrow as I might be going out for a couple of hours on the plains..

Molyslip MultiGlide Auto Transmission beats slick 50 on eBay (end time 14-Mar-11 17:25:36 GMT)
 
mtf is absolutely no better at lubricating brgs or gears than atf but can some times help gear change in some boxes lr only recommend it as theoreticaly it lastsd longer ,putting additives in lt77s or r380s especially molyslip isnt good for baulk rings as they have to strip oil off gears to grab gear cone to match synchro and gear speed,if people changed oil more regulary even with cheap oil boxes would last longer
 
well, i can only speak from what it done to my transferbox.... was really good, definately quiten the noise...

now i only have the gearbox noise... which I hope the molyslip will cure..

do you have experience with the molyslip doing damage to a LT77?
 
jamesmartin said:
mtf is absolutely no better at lubricating brgs or gears than atf but can some times help gear change in some boxes lr only recommend it as theoretically it lasted longer ,putting additives in lt77s or r380s especially molyslip isn't good for baulk rings as they have to strip oil off gears to grab gear cone to match synchro and gear speed,if people changed oil more regularly even with cheap oil boxes would last longer
Click to expand...


My understanding is that ref R380 gearbox and the ATF versus MTF94 debate, one of the main reasons for using MTF is that it has the friction modifiers to allow the synchros to work - whereas the ATF does not.
 
well, you might be right on what you say....
i think i'm not going to add it to my gearbox, but I've added it to the transferbox and seen results..

the reason why im not going to add it to my gearbox is because i've seen this statement in several forums...

LT77/R380 gearboxes have an internal oil pump, I personally wouldn't add any other fluids to the ATF or MTF, is it might make the pump work harder
Click to expand...
 
jamesmartin said:
mtf is absolutely no better at lubricating brgs or gears than atf but can some times help gear change in some boxes lr only recommend it as theoreticaly it lastsd longer ,putting additives in lt77s or r380s especially molyslip isnt good for baulk rings as they have to strip oil off gears to grab gear cone to match synchro and gear speed,if people changed oil more regulary even with cheap oil boxes would last longer
Click to expand...


What he said, JP. Syncro rings work by being tapered and when the get pushed against a tapered surface, they increase the surface area and therefore increase the friction, therby stopping the bearings rotating, or making both shafts rotate at the same speed, enabling the gear to engage. By adding a highly slippery agent such as Molybdenum Sulphide into that friction area, it reduces the friction, increases the slippage and make it more difficult to allow both shafts to rotate at the same speed. There used to be major problems with putting MS into devices which relied on friction, such as gearboxes.
Having said that, Molyslip now produce an addative specifically designed for gearboxes, so I would hope that it wont have the same effect as it used to.
 
if you strip and build enough you can see that it may aid gear selection sometimes ,and we added to a lot were it didnt ,but was noticeable when gear selection changed when box got hot ,that the wear on gears brgs and baulk rings isnt improved,unless you altered viscousity of oil pump wouldnt be effected,r380 dont have resin fibre pumps but use eccentric rotor steel pump,so would manage with thicker oil , i use both but unless its needed for help with gear selection it serves no better than atf ,lt77s run on atf and rarely suffered baulk ring wear to the same extent as r380
 
mmmm... i dont know what to do then!

I got the molyslip slick for the transferbox and it worked, but it said on the box, not to use with ATF...

so I emailed the guy at pitchief crew (or something like that) and he even asked me if I had the LT77 or R380 as the quantities of additive would be different.
and then said to get the Molyslip Multiglide as its done to be used with ATF...

this is what he wrote back to me

Yes I have an additive that works with ATF/MTF applications it's called Molyslip Multiglide® instead of forming plating layers like the Moly E or G, the M MoS2 stays in an ethyl ester based synthetic suspension, but this is fortified with anti foaming agents, corrosion inhibitors, seal preservatives and it raises the thermal breakdown level of the fluid and viscosity stabilisers.
Click to expand...

then I asked if there wasnt a risk of everything seizing solid, which he replied:

No I know this for a fact I just sold a case to a taxi company in Israel, for the automatic transmissions, I have been using it in my wifes automatic honda for just about 4 years, and I have supplied it to the Canadian land rover owners club.
Application amount is very important you don't want to use to much.
This stuff has been very popular with Le Mans drivers in the semi automatic gear boxes. It will not seize up anything.

LT77 is exactly what I needed that's why I asked the year the app amounts for the LT77 and the R380 are a lil different.
for the LT77 the app is 280ml but 305ml for the R380 I have notes some where that tell me why, this is all stuff I worked out with the land rover owners club boffins and the guy who invented Multiglide.
Click to expand...
 
done... sent them an email.
never seen that website when I was looking for molyslip!

all I found was the guys that actually sell it..

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