My 2003 TD4 Kalahari Auto has a fault. I had the VCU bearings replaced last November as the transmission noise over 30 mph was bad. When I got it back the noise was only a little better and I was told my rear diff had excessive play and this was probably the main source of noise. On top of this, the driver's side rear brake was binding. I 'fixed' this and continued to drive it over Christmas. Noise was still bad and then in February the propshaft really started to thump such that the car was bad to drive. I sourced a second hand diff and arranged to have this fitted. As I drove to the workshop the thumping was very bad.
The workshop fitted the new diff, replaced one of the VCU bearings and also a diff support bearing which was worn. They told me the vibration was still apparent at certain speeds and this may be down to the binding rear brake, which would need urgent action. As I drove home, the car was quieter, much better, but the thumping from the transmission was apparent intermittently.
I found the fault with the brake, a lower handbrake lever had siezed making the wheel bind. I set out on a test run hoping the problem had gone, no such luck!

The propshaft now appears to thump at 30 mph and 1500 to 1600 rpm. This is apparent between the front seats. Higher or lower speed makes this disappear. Otherwise it drives ok.

Any help would be appreciated as even the workshop team are at a loss to find the fault. They say that the VCU is ok and they can't see the IRD or auto box as an obvious source of the problem. I'm running out of options and cash!

Thanks.
 
the bad old diff and binding brake could have caused a problem in the IRD or may be some one on here knows different
 
Check the engine mounts for wear. These can transmit noises into the body, knocks clonks etc.
 
Teddy,

Workshop think not on the IRD they feel the problem would be more apparent across speed and rpm.

Diesel,

Its in for check at end of month. i've asked them to look further than just transmission.

Thanks to you both, I'd love to get it sorted.
 
If you lift the front end and turn the front wheels manually do you feel anything strange? If you disconnect the front prop and turn the pinion into the ird do you feel anything strange? Whats the ird oil like (remove the filler plug before the drain plug as the filler can be a sod to get oft) and does it contain fragments of metal? The ird drain plug collects fragments of metal so you may see bit's of metal on it. you always get a little bit. Loads is a problem. Are your props bent?
 
Hippo,

Thanks for the advice. I'm getting it ready for the MOT so I'll check out the front end as you suggest. The workshop is going to take off the prop during their investigation, so I'll pass on the ird info.
 
hiya

dont know if this is any use to you, but on my front prop shaft the cv joint which has a y shaped bearing inside and has needle bearings inside had gone,

it feels like the wheel balancing is out and vibrates or knocks at different speeds,

i had my front cv bearing replaced on its on without having to buy a new front prop

it may not have anything to do with ur fault but just in case gives u room for thought

hope u get it sorted buddy

gary
 
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Right or left? I think I've heard a slight noise from my right as I reverse from my driveway. Big thanks for your replies this is really doin my head in.

Andy
 
Right or left? I think I've heard a slight noise from my right as I reverse from my driveway. Big thanks for your replies this is really doin my head in.

Andy

Neither, front prop CV joint where it joins ird unit. Check for rotational play. Also check all the uj's on prop for play. If you can, remove prop and see if noise stops
 
Neither, front prop CV joint where it joins ird unit. Check for rotational play. Also check all the uj's on prop for play. If you can, remove prop and see if noise stops

thats exactly what happended to mine, had the wheels rebalanced twice, still no difference, then found alot of play in the front cv joint, the y shaped bearing inside had broke

done the same removed front prop to prevent any further damage and also to see if the noise had gone, which it did,

got just the cv joint replaced and problem solved

the noise , vibration came in at 50 mph

hope u get it sorted out

gary
 
Cheers Gary.

It's going in to the workshop at the end of the month and I'll pass on your advice. They said they would remove the propshaft to see if the noise goes away, that should give them a chance to check/change the cv joint. I'll update in this thread.

Thanks Andy
 
Austen/Gary,

It passed the MOT on Saturday, no probs. I left it with the workshop this afternoon and highlighted what you had said about the CV joint. They will check this but they said they thought there weren't any serviceable parts at the front of the shaft and that it may require a new front shaft. Were you able to change the CV joint only?

Thanks again for your help,

Andy
 
hiya

i think this is the joint your talking about, i went to an engineering company in welling kent and they just replaced the front cv joint which also included a new needle bearings and holders, if that makes sense, i think it cost around £50 to get it repaired

had it put back on and vibration was gone

hope that helps u

gary
 

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Gary

Thanks for the pic, I think this is the joint. At least what you're saying backs up what the workshop said in that there's not a landrover replacement part for the problem.

Ta once again,

Andy
 
Repacked my front prop cv joint when I replaced the VCU, the grease had turned into a thickish oil a bit like EP 90.
 
Update

Got the car back yesterday. The workshop couldn't find any problems, I had passed your suggestions to them. The only thing they could see was a small amount of play on the front prop rearmost uj. They replaced this.

The result is that the thumping sound from underneath at 30-35 mph has lessened. With careful use of the right foot the noise has gone. Now and again it still appears, but it is more controllable.

They theorised that as I have changed the VCU bearings, the rear diff and its supports, the noise may be amplified more than before, as everything is tighter. It may also have been there for some time but masked by the diff and bearing noise.

The next stage in the process of elimination is to replace the prop assembly. I think I'll see how the car drives for a while before taking that step.

Thanks again for your help and advice,

Andy
 

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