9.5 litres of engine oil, iirc.

Don't think I have ever changed any fluid without doing the filter too.
 
When I flushed my engine I just swilled the oilfilter out and refitted it for the flush. It hadn’t been in there long and it will get anew one usually every oil change
 
9.5 litres of engine oil, iirc.

Don't think I have ever changed any fluid without doing the filter too.
I will change the filter for engine oil, that's easy enough for me as I don't have to get under the car, but the transmission is different, it may even get more out that doing it the traditional way, it holds 9lt, so I will have to empty is a little and then syphon the rest out, I have in the time I have had the RR done it a lot of times, and the filter has been very clean and no contaminants at all, so the chances are its fine anyway
 
Definitely worth finding someone to get under & do it properly . . . .. but I have one of those vacuum pumps and it works well. (paid a lot less tho)
Done several engines with it, but you need the oil hot or it doesn't flow properly. Not tried transmission fluid.

Also works well for creating vacuum on the cooling system when filling after engine work. Connected it to bleed hose, and my V8 filled really well - no air locks.
 
I think you can get an attachment for the brake lines to change the fluid as well, I will have to look into that
 
I think you can get an attachment for the brake lines to change the fluid as well, I will have to look into that
You can get a pressure brake fluid changing kit. Not sure how well it would work with the WABCO system on the P38. I would not want to try it.
 
I bought a fuel syphon pump from local car factors £7.99. Comes with different size pipes to fit dip stick pipes to drain engine and gearboxes as well. Well impressed so far, as I have arthritis which makes it difficult to get under car
 
I have had a couple of syringe type extractors - but although they work with EP 90 well enough the Draper one couldn't suck DIII (the Sealey one was fine). Point being, you may find that pumps suited to oil might not work for ATF - though the fuel syphon idea is probably spot on. But with EAS at high, and a pail underneath it takes seconds to undo the drain plug, and a few minutes to drain (drain a warm box) - sucking it out manually would be a right ball ache and wouldn't improve the recovery, and it could be tricky to measure the volume removed, too.
As also mentioned above - be sure you have the right level to start with, and then measure what you remove. I would add back the same less 1/2 litre, and then take the level (cold and running, all gears etc) before adding the remainder. The dipstick tube is near horizontal as it goes into the filling plug and takes v little volume to go from Low to High - if you go over then you either have to tap some off/ or suck some out
 
my petrol 4.0ltr range rover handbook states 4.75ltrs engine oil and filter change. but it actually takes 5.5 ltrs to get to max on dipstick?
 
my petrol 4.0ltr range rover handbook states 4.75ltrs engine oil and filter change. but it actually takes 5.5 ltrs to get to max on dipstick?
I believe the sump is 4.75 but the filter will take half to 3/4 of a litre
 
The capacity figure given in the manuals for the ATF capacity of the ZF autoboxes is for a completely empty system.
You can't drain all the ATF out of the torque converter in situ & it will retain a lot of fluid - as you will find out if you remove one & it falls on the ground with the open end down:oops:
So before servicing check the level on the dipstick, measure the amount of fluid that you get out & replace that amount.
Then check level by the method appropriate for your box & top up if necessary.
 
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That’s interesting as my handbook says 6.6 litres including filter.

Petrol is about 6.6 litres of engine oil. Diesel is 9.5 litres.

Manual transmission is something like 2.5 litres and the auto is over 10, maybe 11 litres.
 
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