Having spent 5 hours squirming under my car I have successfully removed my clunking transfer case/box.

I have bought a replacement from a breakers yard in Derby and was just in the process of removing the viscose coupling when I realised that the original box has a splined input shaft and the replacement has a castleated input shaft.

Is this game over? Can I swap the shafts? Is my car the unusual one?

Any help and (constructive) advise gratefully received.

Julian Delaney
 
t/boxes differ due to input splines manual been large splined auto fine spline, you can separate both halves of box and swap the epicyclic units with incorporated the input splines, the rest of the box is the same
 
Hi this sometimes happens, maybe no one on here has the anser you are looking for. Sorry i am unable to help. maybe someone from emmots (the sponsor) could help you.
 
Thank you, is it a big job to swap over? I suppose I could take the chain out of the replacement or do you think I should see if I can get it exchanged , rather than open another can of worms!
 
Thank you, is it a big job to swap over? I suppose I could take the chain out of the replacement or do you think I should see if I can get it exchanged , rather than open another can of worms!

i think its easy but then ive built quite a few , its a great design and requires no setting up at all, but depends on your spanner skill and confidence:)
 
once youve undne all the bolts you will notice tabs around box edge that 2 levers placed back to back and pulled together will spit box joint without damage to joint surface
 
Thank you all who aided me with the transfer case.

I swapped the manual unit for the proper automatic box (different splines) and fitted it with the aid of an assistant, two trolley jacks and chest press almost beyond my endurance. Once lined up and slid onto the shaft it was all pretty straight forward.

If I where to do it again, I wouldn't waste any time removing the centre console, the top bolts, although very awkward are accessible with a good ratchet. I have read others have also managed without removing the cross member, but I did remove this, although tight in place a rubber mallet and gradual tapping got it out, same back in, no need for forcing the side rails apart.

After driving it a couple of times I did get a 'gearbox failiure' or similar notice displayed but I put this down to having disconnected the sensors and it's been fine ever since.
 

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