Tezlane

New Member
Hello having a trans failsafe with my l322 2005 117k it's fine in sports mode and manual in 1st to 4th you can go in and out of 5th but if it stays there for 30 seconds it has the failsafe and its same in drive. I paid to have on diagnostic's came back with 38 gear monitor 5. Read on here could be alternator so waiting for it to arrive. When it was on life feed it was showing between 8-11 volts when driving 😡 any 1 please help me and point me in the right direction to fix itn
 

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Low volts will wreck havoc on a Range Rover....

Sort that first and go from there, trying to fault find with a flat/duff battery is pointless
 
Thanks for reply. The battery is 2 month old it's reading fine had battery tested it said needed good charge an car struggled to start. But it charges when in park soon as you drive an it starts going threw gears it hits the voltage shown in the picture and then a failsafe . Had 2 diagnostic's oil and filter changed and today found the low voltage on a live feed from diagnostic's. It also keeps saying check fog lights some times they work done times drivers side won't. Just really stuck as what to do
 
Fully charge the battery, not just with engine running, a duff battery will drag alternator output low enough to cause issues...

Number 1 rule on Range Rovers - Keep the battery tip top, trying to figure other stuff out with a suspect battery/voltage level is pointless.

These beasts are very power hungrey and you have to be assured of a strong battery AND alternator output at all times....expect to see 14.0 - 14.2V at the battery with engine running
 
It was 14.0 when started an was ok but after about a min into driving it shot that crazy low voltage 8.20 was lowest I was shocked. I'll get battery on a good charge and check alternator I have 1 in the post so all being well I can get that put on in next day or 2. Just carnt see why in sport mode that it's fine and drive with no trans failsafe were drive dose an also manual when left in 5th. Do you think defo eletrical fault coz gear change ect is fine it's just the trans and voltage
 
If it drives OK in sport and drops out in Drive and manual, that could indicate the Torque Convertor is having difficulty controlling slip during lock up.

Petrol or Diesel??
 
3.0 d. On the live feed said TQ was fine in the reading only thing the fella noticed was the voltage while driving he said alternator faulty but I'm clueless just want it sorted as easy ( cheap) as I can haha no such thing ey
 
3.0 d. On the live feed said TQ was fine in the reading only thing the fella noticed was the voltage while driving he said alternator faulty but I'm clueless just want it sorted as easy ( cheap) as I can haha no such thing ey

No such thing as a cheap fix on a Range Rover.

The GN box is known for TQ issues...

But if you are assured the ox seems well apart from this drive issue but the Alternator is suspect....get that done first as I said above, they need a strong output to work properly, any weakness will cause any amount of issues....

Change the Alt so you are sure you have good voltages, and go from there, if you still experience Drive issues and you know you have good volts and a strong alternator...then it must be an issue with the box of the box ECU.
 
The CANbus is the Carrier Area Network bus.

It is the data line that the car systems talk on....

The L322 has multiple Data Buses...I Bus, K Bus, M Bus, P Bus etc etc....

When an ECU sends a message on the CAN, but doesn't receive a reply from the unit it is talking to, it tries several more times, then times out and stores a Timeout fault.

It could mean the ECU it was trying to talk to is faulty or there is a fault in the wiring to it, low volts will cause ECU's to shut down...the L322 has a power shedding system which will turn off non-essential systems in the event of voltage failures

I attach a Bus system troubleshooting document ....this is BMW biased, but considering the Range Rover is a BMW in a posh frock, and it uses the exact same electronics as the E38, E39 and E53 Bimmers it is still relevant to the Range Rover.
 

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Ok thank you I'll look at charging battery an changing alternator if that comes today and let you know if out changed thanks ��
 
Fully charge the battery, not just with engine running, a duff battery will drag alternator output low enough to cause issues...

Number 1 rule on Range Rovers - Keep the battery tip top, trying to figure other stuff out with a suspect battery/voltage level is pointless.

These beasts are very power hungrey and you have to be assured of a strong battery AND alternator output at all times....expect to see 14.0 - 14.2V at the battery with engine running
No way should a poor battery drag the alternator voltage down 8 to 11 volts, something would burn first:eek:
Sounds to me like the alternator is faulty faining as the temperature rises.
Certainly the first step is to fix the low voltage, the rest of the problems will then most likely disappear.
 
Been for battery an alternator test both are saying there fine :-s. And it drives in sport mode with not a problem 1-4th in manual and drive fine it's once it hits 5th in drive an man that it failsafes . And just driving in drive last night was giving me them readings voltage
 
Haha very true. What do Ya think stick alternator on or just get an auto eletrical to have a look seems funny how it's only when you drive it to me but I'm clueless with cars
 
Haha very true. What do Ya think stick alternator on or just get an auto eletrical to have a look seems funny how it's only when you drive it to me but I'm clueless with cars
Alternators can fail as they warm up and recover when cold.
You need to sort the low voltage problem be it a dodgy connection or a faulty alternator. If you cannot DIY you need a competant auto electrician and they are as rare as hens teeth.
 
So it looks like I'm ****ing in the wind. Any easy way of finding the problem at all or is it just 1 of them time consuming pulling every plug
 

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