D

Ducati John

New Member
Hi, this is my first post so thanks in advance to anyone who takes time to assist. I've owned a 2003 4.4 L322 for the last 5 years and I love it. Its been very reliable and quite easy to sort whens things have gone wrong.
However it now keeps coming up with the TRANS FAILSAFE PROG message that looks to be quite common. This all started after I had a brake pipe failure in Nov 12. (Above fuel tank covers!), before that it was fine. I replaced all the brake lines and bled the system but not using the Testbook method. The brakes are working fine.
Since then randomly the message comes up when I first start the car, sometimes just before I start the motor, sometimes just after. The car does limp along and is for sure in failsafe mode. If I turn the car back off and start it again the message goes off and all is well. Sometimes it will come on for 2 or 3 consecutive starts through a day, other times it will not fault for a few starts. Once running without message the car performs properly and the message has never come on once the car is going.
I replaced the gearbox fluid and filter in Nov 11 so suspect all that is OK.
The battery is recent and the fault has showed shortly after it has had a good charge and run so I don't suspect the battery.
I haven't had it on Testbook but it has been on the latest Snap-On device which didn't show much up. Possibly the starter inhibitor switch.
So, my question right now is, is it possible to strip and clean up the starter inhibitor switch. Has someone actually done it? Does anyone have a spare, good or otherwise?
Also, are there any more simplish tests or things to check?
Regards
Ducati John.
 
You can see the inhibitor switch mounted on the outside of the gearbox

It's quite common for them to get damaged underneath

But usually you wouldn't get the trans fails safe program error
Usually just stops you starting the engine

Are you still running on the original gearbox ? If so, how many miles has it done ?

What was the condition of the oil when changed ?? Any metal filings inside the sump ?
 
Hi, the switch looks Ok externally. The gearbox is the original far as I know and car has 90K miles. Oil was pretty good and no signs of swarf etc. It seems work fine once message has gone from the dash.
The guy using the Snap-On kit is an ex-Land Rover technician but this was his first time using this kit on an L322. It didn't come up with an actual fault it seemed but he did mention the inhibitor switch as being a possible. Whether this is from previous experience or what I'm not sure. Was done as a favour so difficult to follow up. He mentioned water from air con drain can get onto this switch and cause problems.
 
Worth checking that the ignition switch is passing the full 12 volts, they are known to fail.
 
Ducati John said:
Thanks, will add that to my list of things to check. Any idea where is best to check the voltage?
Cheers
John.
Click to expand...
As Hippo said, at the switch, compare the input voltage to the output, the output has been known to be as low as 9 volts. You need to operate the switch a few times and see if the reading varies.
 
Put your location in your profile - there may be some one local with the right Diagnostic Gear to come over and read faults for you!
 
90k your allready on borrowed time,its probably on its last legs,a l322 gearbox is like a pensioner as it gets older it gets weaker,ive heard you get a letter off the queen if you hit 100k
 
Hi just searched the forum for this fault and found this post. I have same issue, with the car in park I get the trans failsafe prog with no "P" on the display, car will start but seems to be in 3rd or 4th gear? If I switch off and select neutral "N" appears in the display car starts and drives ok. It was only happening after raining but now it's every time I start the car. I can live with selecting neutral before starting but I'm worried that the switch will fail leaving me with a problem. Any ideas/help would be greatly appreciated. Thanks in adavance
 
You could first check that the pins look okay in the connector

8_zpsixrdp7mn.jpg


Pincheck1_zps07abe300.jpg


but, failing that, you could drill out the seven rivets and check that the five wiper fingers are all in place and the copper strips are clean enough to allow a good electrical contact

Switch%20Assy_zps5e1ymdrj.jpg


Backplate_zpsnnaqdij8.jpg


Wiper_zpsjhhdmko3.jpg


Contacts_zpsgvc2smwb.jpg


Positions_zps6yrvxin6.jpg


Phil
 
Thanks for the info, looks interesting and scary lol. Does the switch suffer with internal corrosion due to water ingress or would it be the wiring plug which could be the problem. Once inside the switch, if I have the courage to take it apart, can it be repaired if damage is found?
Thanks again
 
Serious question here: Is it just me , who cannot understand why , when a fault message comes up and all sorts of faffing about, starting issues, vehicle limping along , having to switch on and off to get out of fail safe mode, etc, etc, etc, the vehicle is not put of the road straight away and fixed?
I really , honestly and truly do not understand when people ignore , what seem to be quite serious warnings and try every trick they can to keep running a sick vehicle.
For clarity , I don't mean air suspension inactive or other less serious messages but messages that seem to appear hand in hand with obvious signs of distress.
Is it just me? Am I overly cautious? Or should people be paying attention to their sick, limping veh , when it throws up messages like trans-failsafe or other such things?
 
For me this is a recent problem, along with others I've had, hence why I need to sort this asap.
As the car starts and drives normally by selecting neutral before starting and the message is no longer displayed
then there isn't a pressing problem but i would like to solve this issue before it fails altogether.
Hence why I searched for this problem, with the above info I now have some direction to a solution.
 
newcybrown said:
For me this is a recent problem, along with others I've had, hence why I need to sort this asap.
As the car starts and drives normally by selecting neutral before starting and the message is no longer displayed
then there isn't a pressing problem but i would like to solve this issue before it fails altogether.
Hence why I searched for this problem, with the above info I now have some direction to a solution.
Click to expand...
Not being a mechanic , nor knowing enough as a layman , having to select neutral to start the engine would be a concern to myself , and I would not be happy to keep driving my own veh with the issue without it being checked out, However, I was referring more to the original post (and other similar posts that crop up). Which included "Since then randomly the message comes up when I first start the car, sometimes just before I start the motor, sometimes just after. The car does limp along and is for sure in failsafe mode. If I turn the car back off and start it again the message goes off and all is well. Sometimes it will come on for 2 or 3 consecutive starts through a day, other times it will not fault for a few starts".
This is more the type of thing I mean.
 
Battery is new end of last year, alternator seems ok but haven't had it tested so not 100% sure but all seems ok. It starts really strong. I had an issue with the heater relay, it continued to run after switching off and drained the battery.
At the start of the cold weather last year the battery was struggling to start the car so I replaced it, didn't have a problem starting during winter after that.
 
I agree this is a problem that I want to sort asap as I can't trust the car 100% until it's sorted.
I think it's ok to start the car in neutral as well as park, similar to a manual where the car can be started in neutral.
My car comes up with the trans message only in park, so before starting I select neutral switch off and back on again, the message is no longer displayed and the car starts/drives perfectly. Once it's been driven and warmed up I'm able to start in park throughout the day. It only seems to happen first start of day when the engine is cold.
After seeing the info above I'm going to firstly check the wiring plug for any problem, If it's ok then I'm going to either open up the switch or replace it.
 
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