wammers said:
Ball joint splitters are for sops, fairies, TV mechanics and amateurs. :D:D:D
Click to expand...
How about Design Engineers who although a competent spanner man can't be ar$ed with banging and hammering and would rather allow the laws of physics and levers do the hard work while he sits there turning a spanner with one hand and sipping my Kopi Luwak coffee with the other...:D:D:D:D:D:p
 
Saint.V8 said:
How about Design Engineers who although a competent spanner man can't be ar$ed with banging and hammering and would rather allow the laws of physics and levers do the hard work while he sits there turning a spanner with one hand and sipping my Kopi Luwak coffee with the other...:D:D:D:D:D:p
Click to expand...

Efficiency rules Ant. One ball joint tool one spanner. Versus one hammer blow is a none starter. Fork tools are a waste of time if you are just removing TRE for access. You will usually destroy the gaiter. A ball joint tool is not something on my tool box shopping list. :):)
 
wammers said:
Efficiency rules Ant. One ball joint tool one spanner. Versus one hammer blow is a none starter. Fork tools are a waste of time if you are just removing TRE for access. You will usually destroy the gaiter. A ball joint tool is not something on my tool box shopping list. :):)
Click to expand...
+1,people should learn how to use a hammer properly
 
About thirty years ago I remember doing a ball joint on a Datsun 180B, I went through my hammer arsenal, starting with the trusty ball peen which quickly escalated to a 2 lb club, 5 lb club and then the sledgehammer. Would it budge? Would it buggery. I tried heating and cooling. Nothing, in the end I bit the bullet purchased the scissor type splitter I have to this very day. After nipping the splitter up, plus a thud with the ball peen and it was off. In the vast majority of cases you do not need a splitter but it's nice to know it's there when you need it.
 
in 30 odd years of working ive never seen a taper joint including drop arms that wouldnt split with the correct whack
 
Going to try it again with my club hammer and hopefully I will not bend the arm or miss and smash the caliper :) or something else in the way......
Bloody amateurs!
 
If in doubt, gi it a clout!

Knocked mine twice and out they came. No fancy tools, just a good 'omma. :):)
 
i belted mine repeatedly with a lump hammer and the bastid wouldn't shift :(

first one i ever met that wouldn't budge using this method, i resorted to a forked splitter that did it after a bit of huffing and puffing.
 
JamesBB said:
Ah, bugger. I bought the short TRE here:
Track Rod End (Short) QFS000010D Island 4x4 - Specialists in Land Rover and Range Rover Parts and accessories for all models. UK and worldwide mail order.

But it looks like I need the entire rod that comes with the non removable one. Which is this:
QFS000060 | Track Rod End - Long

Not that I mean to get a Britpart one, just trying to find a pic of them against the part number.

At least both will have been replaced at the same time.

Cheers again.
Click to expand...

Still researching the track rod and non-removable TRE. The part number definitely seems to be QFS000060.
I have found this site below with offerings from Britpart, Allmakes, Bearmach, Lemforder and Land Rover - although they say it is a draglink as opposed to track rod.
Joint-Drag Link - Land Rover Part QFS000060

Which would be considered as being the best value for money? Not wanting to buy a Britpart and it snap, and they look a similar cost to Allmakes or Bearmach.

Confused.............. :confused:
Cheers again
 
JamesBB said:
Still researching the track rod and non-removable TRE. The part number definitely seems to be QFS000060.
I have found this site below with offerings from Britpart, Allmakes, Bearmach, Lemforder and Land Rover - although they say it is a draglink as opposed to track rod.
Joint-Drag Link - Land Rover Part QFS000060

Which would be considered as being the best value for money? Not wanting to buy a Britpart and it snap, and they look a similar cost to Allmakes or Bearmach.

Confused.............. :confused:
Cheers again
Click to expand...

Lemforder have a look at Island 4x4.
 
StuckAgainSteve said:
After I saw a few complaints on here of (quickly) knackered lemforder TREs, I went for the cheapie Britpart trackrod assembly - it they're gonna be crap anyway - may as well save money!
Click to expand...

Interesting. How did the quality of the Britpart one seem compared to your old one?

I have read a few bad posts on the Lemforder ones too.
Seems the Bearmachs and AllMakes seem good from other forums.
 
Seemed fine, the ball joints had uniform resistance, the locking collars and bolts seemed to be good quality. No complaints so far - see how long it lasts though! Just by law of averages I think Britpart must accidentally make some things well! :)
 
StuckAgainSteve said:
Seemed fine, the ball joints had uniform resistance, the locking collars and bolts seemed to be good quality. No complaints so far - see how long it lasts though! Just by law of averages I think Britpart must accidentally make some things well! :)
Click to expand...

Yes I have had no complaints with them. I fitted one of their rads and an AC condenser last year, all is ok. Was a little awkward in the rad fitting, but generally fine.

I may go for the cheap £20 item then and buy another next year if it fails 5 mins out of warranty.
 
Well I have given it several sharp blows with a 2 pound club hammer and it will not shift. Tried several angles, tried several facial expressions.. Bugger. It is either dynamite or a splitter next.
 
JamesBB said:
Well I have given it several sharp blows with a 2 pound club hammer and it will not shift. Tried several angles, tried several facial expressions.. Bugger. It is either dynamite or a splitter next.
Click to expand...

Directly on the end of the steering arm. As if you were trying to knock steering arm into hub. NOT on the sides. Put a bar through from steering arm and under trackrod lever down and hit.
 
Or use a spare jack to put some upward pressure on the trackrod assembly to stop it dissipating hammer energy by vibrating - don't jack too much (just a tweak) or you'll risk bending the steering arm.
 
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