You've beaten me to it!
The U section sits against the ball side of the arm the pin fits through & presses against the arm & the solid arm presses on the top of the pin where it pokes out of the top so no pressure exerted on the ball & its socket. Tightening the screw squeezes both arms towards each other popping the pin out of the tapered hole.

I do have the pickle fork type as well but that's only for use when I'm going to replace the joint as it exerts high force on the ball.
 
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the amount of pressure usually effects the ball and socket joint might not be noticeable straight away

Sorry but i don't see how a scissor type splitter can affect the ball joint socket.

We use the scissor type but only to put some pressure on the taper the give the cast it a smack with a copper hammer (the bit the tapper goes through not the joint itself) or with a copper/brass drift and hammer if we cant get in with a hammer.
 
The Halfords one is fine btw. Taken off loads no problems. Pickle forks are a bit crap TBH. Working on suspension requires joints to be broken and put back all the time . Tighten with an impact driver or tighten then tap repeat.
 
As said, ramp up the forces with the scissor type and A) a good whack with a hammer will pop it or B) make yourself a brew and watch it pop off on it's own.

Pickle forks are quicker and are obviously only for ball joint renewal and nothing else but that's just my experience.
 

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