discool
Well-Known Member
myfirstl322
Well-Known Member
I've got a Sykes Pickavant, but it's rarely needed, you need to direct the hammer blows on the cast steering arm, not the ball joint.
discool
Well-Known Member
I know where u mean that is why I stated joint and not ball joint which I expect would do nothing.
Ive got 2 snap on ones like these does the job every time with ease, probably way too expensive if your
not in the trade but has proven there worth over the years, beats smashing the beans out of ball joins with
a 5lb hammer even though you smile inside when it goes
myfirstl322
Well-Known Member
Clear as mud.......I know where u mean that is why I stated joint and not ball joint which I expect would do nothing.
discool
Well-Known Member
Ive got 2 snap on ones like these does the job every time with ease, probably way too expensive if your
not in the trade but has proven there worth over the years, beats smashing the beans out of ball joins with
a 5lb hammer even though you smile inside when it goes
It does pay to get a good quality tools as they don't break, my ball joint separator is at least 40 years old and Ive only used it three times, once when I got it and around 4 years ago to replace the joints on my disco over a weekend
myfirstl322
Well-Known Member
Even better, 2 x 2.5lb hammers............one each side simultaneously. (on the cast steering arm)
Yes, jack up on it a little if you like, if it fits from above.
Yes, jack up on it a little if you like, if it fits from above.
It does pay to get a good quality tools as they don't break, my ball joint separator is at least 40 years old and Ive only used it three times, once when I got it and around 4 years ago to replace the joints on my disco over a weekend
I'm a mechanic to trade & only bought mac & snap on tools when I was serving my time. I seen the local snap on dealer
on Tuesday for a ratchet service & a broken torque which of course was completely free
If that was any other brand it would have been in the bin & off to get replacements hence why I still buy the best tools
Hicap phill
Well-Known Member
Don't draper have a returns policy( yep very small writing) & only if you have not miss used it.
Fergie46
Active Member
The scissor type is best (as Illustrated) but if the joint is going to be replaced you can get a tool which looks like a forked chisel. I have two, one about a foot long an another about two and a half feet long which is more useful as you don't have to be cramped in the wheelarch etc and gives you more room to use the hammer on it. It completely rogers the rubber gaiter though but it is very successful. And cheaper.
jamesmartin
Well-Known Member
if your going to refit the joint the hammer method is the only one that doesnt effect the boot or joint
jamesmartin
Well-Known Member
the amount of pressure usually effects the ball and socket joint might not be noticeable straight away
Tall Ratbag
Active Member
I don't understand your point James - the scissor type doesn't put any load on the ball joint and cup - the load is only applied to the end of the threaded section of the shaft of the ball pin and the outer part of the taper. The only possible forms of damage to the joint is to the last thread on the shaft of the ball pin, and that's unlikely if the tool is on square, and damage to the boot if the tool is fitted clumsily.
