dave21478 · Feb 22, 2015

Your avatar is the Special Vehicles badge - do you have a commercial?
Mine is a commercial and I need to keep the load bed clear, so will be fitting the second battery behind the front seat in the space under the overhang of the load bed - ie what would have been the rear footwells of a normal 3-door. I need to double check the measurements but I think a standard td4 engine battery will fit quite snugly there. Obviously it will need a decent fixing system, but I dont use that space for anything else so it seems ideal.

dave21478 · Feb 22, 2015

gstuart said:
funny enough I thought if im unabke to get all the works completed by May, have got a starter unit that has cig lighter plugs built in and a 240 in ertor and could use that.

I wouldnt do that. The power draw from a starter pack with an invertor on it is going to be a bit much to be pulling through the ciggy socket and wiring.

gstuart · Feb 22, 2015

dave21478 said:
Your avatar is the Special Vehicles badge - do you have a commercial?
Mine is a commercial and I need to keep the load bed clear, so will be fitting the second battery behind the front seat in the space under the overhang of the load bed - ie what would have been the rear footwells of a normal 3-door. I need to double check the measurements but I think a standard td4 engine battery will fit quite snugly there. Obviously it will need a decent fixing system, but I dont use that space for anything else so it seems ideal.

i converted mine to have seats and the proper door panels in it etc

is a 3 door and found buying a commercial a lot cheaper as could loose the vat

fitted the quarter light windows myself, hardest bit was getting the metal panels unstuck

fitted the 60/40 rear seat system without the arm rest so the dogs didnt have that digging in there backs , not that their spoilt

gave away all the floor and side panels , inc the floor and grill , knowone wanted none of it

also changed my v5 , got it motd and also informed insurance company of change

on the back passenger side, behind the rear panel I noticed some vent installed in the body , going to try and cut out the shape of a battery box, then use some fibreglass to try and mould into shape then spray it black , so hopefully it will blend in better

but will have to see ??

gstuart · Feb 22, 2015

dave21478 said:
I wouldnt do that. The power draw from a starter pack with an invertor on it is going to be a bit much to be pulling through the ciggy socket and wiring.

this is what I've got

would use it as a stand alone unit and nothing plugged into it from the car

sorry for the confusion , lol

thought it easier to explain via a pic

gstuart · Feb 22, 2015

the back of it,

could plug a led lamp directly into the cig lighter of the starter unit

does that make more sense.

longdog · Feb 22, 2015

Fit an Anderson connector to your spare battery either in the boot, or on the tow bar. Then make up a lead to get power into your tent.

timster66 · Feb 22, 2015

Back to the towing bit, you mentioned getting a breakaway chain, make you do as I believe that is a legal requirement now, know someone who got a ticket for not having one whilst towing their trailer!

dave21478 · Feb 22, 2015

Depends on the trailer. Under 750kgs gross weight needs a chain strong enough and the correct length to keep the trailer attached and prevent the hitch from hitting the ground if it uncouples. Over 750kgs needs a breakaway cable that pulls on the trailers handbrake and then snaps, allowing the trailer to separate and slow by itself.

gstuart · Feb 22, 2015

ref the chain funny enough I didn't realise it was a requirement

spent my youth with my parents and caravaning , dad always taught me different things including chains and also stabilisers etc and how they worked

so just though it would be a good practice to fit a chain for the what if secaneros

freelance · Feb 22, 2015

Don' t forget when obtaining the long bolts they are a metric fine thread, 1 mm pitch against the standard 1.25 mm pitch, it might be best to just give the existing bolts a good wire brush and fit them with copper slip .

gstuart · Feb 23, 2015

freelance said:
Don' t forget when obtaining the long bolts they are a metric fine thread, 1 mm pitch against the standard 1.25 mm pitch, it might be best to just give the existing bolts a good wire brush and fit them with copper slip .

thks for that

the old ones are pretty rusty and for the sake of a tenner would prefer to get new ones

I had wrote down the 1.25 pitch and didn't know what they were but thks to u now know , with them being the 1 mm pitch

plus when u fitted ur bolts did u have to fit any nuts at all plse

I assume all the threads are built i to the body of the car this not needing any nuts as in the instruction manual it shows nuts on there

thks for that

just put one coat onto the towbar after rub i g it down to bare metal , used hammerite straight on rust via a spray can and put a dust coat onto it to prevent it from oxidising again, then will take it down in betwen each layer , got a tin of hammerite smooth in black and will use that where I can get to and the spray tin on the less access areas

will take a few weeks to do but not bothered

just appreciate all the great help

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