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Barry McGill

Member
I have a Defender 90 1998 and it has the normal tow hook and 7 pin socket which the previous owner fitted. Since owning the dashboard trailer light has always come on once the ignition is switched on and never goes out other than when the indicators are used then it blinks in time with the indicator panel lights. I have removed the tow socket and it was full of mud and corroded wires. Even when these were separated and cleaned the panel light still stays on and still blinks in time with the indicators. Anyone have any ideas about what may be the problem other than an earth fault which I am busy trying to check.
As I believe this is an MoT issue I'm going to remove the hook and panel light for the forthcoming MoT, bit cheeky but I don't want a fail based on the panel light not coming on then off as it should and who on earth needs a panel light to know if they had a trailer hitched up??
 
Hi Barry has it got LED lights fitted ? Because if they are fitted that can cause issues like this , the problem would be the relay.
cheers Ian
 
The instrument panel bulb I changed for an led as the existing defender bulb had virtually no light typical of defenders but even the standard panel bulb remained dimly lit all the time. However the actual indicator lights and rear lights are all standard not led's
 
I'm fairly certain if no towball or socket fitted not a test issue, as you say whip the bulb out to be sure. NOT cheeky or illegal! Not there can't be tested. My old Merc is downrated to 3.5 tonne, as originally built had no seatbelts, as such they're not tested now.
Good luck with MOT
 
The trailer light is wired to the indicator relay - light green and purple. take the relay out - if the light goes out with the ignition on, the relay may be faulty. If it doesn't go out, you have a wiring fault, probably behind the dash.
 
I will try taking the relay out tomorrow as its cold and raining cats n dogs here but hopefully it will be the relay as tracing a faulty wire in an old Land Rover I think will be patience trying task lol
 
The wiring is actually very simple which is a blessing. From the stalk it will leave through the bulkhead in the middle and then goes to the front indicators or down the drivers side chassis leg inside and pops out the rear near the x member which sometimes they rub through the wires there
 
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I changed the instrument panel led for an original bulb and everything worked so will leave it like that with original relay for the moment and change out the relay for a one suitable for led's later. Well it also passed the MoT although I had to make sure the smoke out the exhaust was reduced. Did this via a diesel treatment and cleaning out the air intake. As I didn't have a lot of time prior to the MoT test I used a less conventional method than removal of the intake (see attached pics). Now its a proper clean including removal of the intercooler and also the vent system pipes. Thanks for all the help.
 
Yes I know and sorry if this upset the protocol but I only put it in for some light relief as I had mentioned the MoT. The point about the air filter cover is absolutely correct. The previous owner fitted a snorkel badly and as a result the filter could not be located on the metal plinth attached to the engine and hence he zipped locked the whole thing to the plinth instead of bolting it and the consequence is that the vibration rotates the cover. I am making an adaptor plate to fix this so the air filter can be bolted down. Its one of the many jobs I have on my list to correct previous work people have done badly on my Defender. The mechanical stuff is relatively easy albeit time consuming its the electrical mods that have been done which are all head scratchers like the tow electrics posted here. Again sorry if I have upset won't happen again.
 
Barry McGill said:
Yes I know and sorry if this upset the protocol but I only put it in for some light relief as I had mentioned the MoT. The point about the air filter cover is absolutely correct. The previous owner fitted a snorkel badly and as a result the filter could not be located on the metal plinth attached to the engine and hence he zipped locked the whole thing to the plinth instead of bolting it and the consequence is that the vibration rotates the cover. I am making an adaptor plate to fix this so the air filter can be bolted down. Its one of the many jobs I have on my list to correct previous work people have done badly on my Defender. The mechanical stuff is relatively easy albeit time consuming its the electrical mods that have been done which are all head scratchers like the tow electrics posted here. Again sorry if I have upset won't happen again.
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I wouldn't worry about it there is a lot of taking the mick on this forum as you will find out, that's the way it is. Give more than you receive and you will get on well!
 
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