Skynet
Well-Known Member
I seem to remember that the 1.8 had an upgraded oil rail that should be changed same time as a HGF.
My VCU has completed 140K but I'm considering changing it now just in case, esp as it's only £200 for a recon unit.
But the thing that gets me is how much work and replacement other LR owners will do without a quibble at cost then point a finger at Freelanders and say how expensive they are to fix!!!
My VCU has completed 140K but I'm considering changing it now just in case, esp as it's only £200 for a recon unit.
But the thing that gets me is how much work and replacement other LR owners will do without a quibble at cost then point a finger at Freelanders and say how expensive they are to fix!!!
What if the Nun was in fact a covert 'Mud-Head' who -as the designated driver-simply couldn't resist taking a 'cross country' route she'd discovered whilst on her weekly shopping sortie to Sainsburys?
As such sinful indulgences would be seriously frowned upon she'd clearly have to hide the evidence from her Mother superior and thus have the vehicle hand washed whilst engaged up her shopping (and would also no doubt use her Nunley influence to cajole the boys into pressure washing the underside as well)
Upon such a basis, Sir, I suggest that your reasoning is flawed!!
Nice one. Whilst my 99'er is currently in dry dock, and being aware of the fact that she's also exhibiting one or two symptoms on this list I'm now going to make a call and highlight the relevant issues to the dealer.
Thank you Howard.
howardo
New Member
happy to help, despite me being a cnut
Kalahari_Pete
Member
My Freelander 1 td4 built in 2003 has done over 140,000 miles and still original VCU.
Should I be worried that it's done twice the mileage it's supposed to do?
Should I be worried that it's done twice the mileage it's supposed to do?
GrumpyGel
Well-Known Member
Depends on if you've tested it or not.
https://www.landyzone.co.uk/land-rover/tests-new-freelander-1-owners-should-do-on-their-car.312863/
Kalahari_Pete
Member
I wouldn't test anything that seems to be working ok
Nodge68
Well-Known Member
How the VCU has been treated is more important than the mileage.
If it's always had identical tyres all round, kept at the correct pressure, with new identical tyres fitted to the rear only, then the VCU has a very long life.
Nodge68
Well-Known Member
How do you know it's working correctly without testing it?
Testing the VCU is important. Testing it regularly will give you advanced warning of it stiffening, so preventing a destroyed IRD.
Kalahari_Pete
Member
It had a mix of different tyres when I bought it three years ago.
It now has two sets of two different tyres fitted earlier this year.
Kalahari_Pete
Member
It works obviously because I have 4WD and no noise/vibration issues.
Whether it works 100% I do not know but I am not in the habit of testing things that appear to be working properly. Just like I wouldn't remove my water pump or alternator and test it.
andyfreelandy
Well-Known Member
Testing the VCU is a non invasive test that requires no dismantling. If you search the one wheel up test.
@Nodge68 is suggesting leaving it to fail will cause significant and expensive secondary damage, unlike the alternator or water pump (mostly !!).
Routine testing is very worthwhile. Also, from experience, they can degrade very quickly sometimes. I tested mine at a pass and a few months later it went very tight and I had to take action. Depends on mileage, type of use and probs many other factors we don't understand.
Kalahari_Pete
Member
Okay, I'll have a go at the test and see what's what.
Thanks for your advice chaps.
Nodge68
Well-Known Member
If the VCU goes stiff, you'll still have 4 WD, it'll just be active all the time, which massively reduces the life of the IRD.
Oh and it's wise to have 4 identical tyres, or it shortens the life of the VCU, which as a secondary issue destroys the IRD.
Kalahari_Pete
Member
So if I test the VCU and there's nothing wrong with it are you still going to make that claim? I mean what time period/mileage are you going to specify because really what you're claiming means the damage starts as soon as there's not 4 identical tyres fitted.If the VCU goes stiff, you'll still have 4 WD, it'll just be active all the time, which massively reduces the life of the IRD.
Oh and it's wise to have 4 identical tyres, or it shortens the life of the VCU, which as a secondary issue destroys the IRD.
My F1 has done 135,000 miles on original VCU and mixed tyres for at least 2 years since I've had it and for however long the previous owner had them.
GrumpyGel
Well-Known Member
lol, I'm sure you'll keep making arrogant posts - then all of a sudden go very quiet when your car's ****ed.
Hippo
Lord Hippo
Ere we go again...
The truth is you do not need 4x tyres which are the same make, model and size. What you need is 4x tyres of the same circumferance, and therefore radious, with nearly the same tread pattern. The vcu can take out a bit of difference between them if its of good health.
Problem is two tyres from different manufacturers can be different sizes. Their numbers may be the same but the overall circumfrance when fitted and under pressure of weight of said Freelander, can cause the tyre to 'seat' differenly on the ground. Hence a differing radius. The way to get round this is to fit 4x tyres of the same make, model and size. That way we take out any variations of how tyres bend when supporting yer Freelander due to their design. Its easier to use the make, model and size rule as opposed to fighting ourselfs over which tyres are a good match for others.
If you have tyres of mixed tread depth the deepest tread goes on the rear.
The theory of testing yer vcu is down to peeps like me getting upset at how many had vcu failures which caused expensive damage to transmission components. Ird and rear diff mainly. So we came up with a relatively easy test to follow (some still struggle) so we could all compare our results, with the hope we could come up with a standard to work too. My results in me signatre below. I have probably tested more vcu's than any on ere, not including thems who do it for a job.
It is also good practice to test yer vcu regular, in order to track its timing. If the time suddenly starts to increase then either somefink is wrong (like hand brake catching fer example) or yer vcu is starting to seize up. When that happens it causes additional stress in yer transmission that can end in somefink expensive snapping. Like the ird or rear diff.
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