FreelanderMT

FreelanderMT

New Member
Hi I own a 2002 freelandie td4 and lately fitted a cone filter instead of the piece of tubing which goes inside the mud guard.. Probably this is not related but Now I'm noticing that it seems that there is too much lag like getting to 2300 revs aprox so that the turbo kicks in:mad: .. could be there any problem with the egr valve for sludge:(? Will removing of the 8mm braded tube which goes inside the egr valve help this (even while being conscious of Nox):rolleyes:? Thanks for your helpful replies guys..while hoping to get a better throttle response. :eek:
 
Already tried to disconnect the MAF to see whether you can rev it up easier ?? When MAF failed it's hard to get it going.
 
definatly try disconnecting air mass meter it was the problem for my old td4 , I disconnected it and suddenly it had a turbo!
 
FreelanderMT said:
Ok i will try to disconnect the air mass meter...and will let you know what happens...hopefully will solve it:confused:
Click to expand...

And if there is a difference I'd try first, before buying a new one/go to the dealer, to remove and clean it (with brakecleaner for example) as it's a rather expensive item. Good luck.
 
So... Today i tried disconnecting the maf sensor and left it in place and sprayed some brake cleaner:confused:. I started the engine and all of a sudden it started to make a clinking noise and revved up high by itself without even touching the gas:mad:... I switched it off..left it for a minute and tried again with the sensor connected this time..and almost did the same but less clinking could be heard... I switched it off and back on and it ran as nothing had happened...Can someone give me an indication of what could had happened? Anyways it seems that the turbo it could be kicking in at lower revs but I only feel the kick at approx 2300 revs.. Why didnt the MAF sensor disconnection work? :(
 
the knocking you heard is the engine running on brake cleaner, a diesel engine will run on anything remotely flammable that is squirted in the intake, this will also cause it to rev uncontrollably.

Its a bit of a bitch to get to but check the small elbow pipe that comes off the turbo to the metal intercooler pipe, I have seen these collapse in the past causing lack of power, while you're at it, check all the intercooler hoses.
 
Ive also heard that the intercooler hoses can get holed under the engine shield giving less boost especially at low revs its worth checking all these hoses and make sure they are all on!
 
the knocking you heard is the engine running on brake cleaner, a diesel engine will run on anything remotely flammable that is squirted in the intake, this will also cause it to rev uncontrollably
Click to expand...
pheww.. i thought the turbo got weird causing damage..but Id have to continue investigating whats wrong..I tried detaching the 8mm braded tube from the egr valve but that gave no better solution neither.. now id give a check with the tubing of the intercooler..
 
PROBLEM SOLVED.. I cleaned the EGR Valve which was full of Dirt and black viscious material with various solvents. I saw this already happening to another user somewhere online.. I tried a couple of runs and it worked smooth and accelerated from lower revs..:eek: Thanks for your help guys..
 
This might be an indication that the rocker breather cover filter needs replacing as it is gunged up and causing all the crap to go through your hoses/turbo etc etc
 
If it is the MAF sensor (mine was the same till i replaced it) landrover expect around 200 quid for one, you can fit an alternative one that costs around 50 quid (it's a peirburg rather than bosch)

found a Chap that sells em online at TUNEAM , it's a rover site , they put the same bmw motor in the 75 z diesel.

Also sells some intersting tuning boxes, worth a look!
 
I do!

On the egr valve front, a chap who makes decat pipes for the L series (fits the early Frelander diesels as well - good for reduced lag, and a few more ponies) is working on an egr valve bypass pipe.

I.e. a bolt on alternative without all the egr valve gubbins in it, just a nice smooth unobstructed bore. (Apparently you can get them for the TD5)

As for mafs, I do sell alot of Pierbugh mafs and MF75s - works out at half the cost of a Bosch maf.

Beware the mafs on Ebay. These are unbranded Chinese copies and from the charts I've been sent by a 75 owner, they work fine if you don't want to use more than 2500rpm.!! After that the signal actually drops to zero instead of heading for 4.5V!

Ron
 
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