ovalandrover
Well-Known Member
As long as they havnt rusted into the tower or the pins rusted into the spigots you should be ok.
Littelwill
Well-Known Member
Good luck not a bad job if things come off easily
tomcat59alan
Well-Known Member
If your pins are rusted and you have new ones then don't bother trying to get them out. Levering the ends will snap the old pins.
kurtjohnson10
Well-Known Member
+1 I just replaced the pins as the old ones were rusty
I used an old flat bladed screw driver or an old 1 1/4 chisel to shatter the tops of the old bags to remove them as the pins were totally seized
Had to remove the nearside road wheel to get the pin in the front bag didn't remove the liners but would have been easier had I done so.
Other than that ok job despite a few mistakes on my part
Hope it all goes well
Had to remove the nearside road wheel to get the pin in the front bag didn't remove the liners but would have been easier had I done so.
Other than that ok job despite a few mistakes on my part
Hope it all goes well
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JamesBB
Active Member
Who said the rears are easier?
Minus a trip to the shop and lunch it has been 2.5 hours and I have the bottom end of 1 spring off.
Top just partially snapped in situ. The inner side rusted solid and stopping me pulling it out. Chisel has helped, being very careful with the air lines..... Need a longer chisel now though.........
Minus a trip to the shop and lunch it has been 2.5 hours and I have the bottom end of 1 spring off.
Top just partially snapped in situ. The inner side rusted solid and stopping me pulling it out. Chisel has helped, being very careful with the air lines..... Need a longer chisel now though.........
I dunno, it took me a lot of effort, swearing, and a couple of hours to do the rears.
However, having done it once, I now know that brute force and ignorance trumps any logical approach.
Prybar through the wheel arch managed to free the top of mine in the end.
Inner side rusted to buggary sounds like an interesting challenge.
JamesBB
Active Member
Well a good pry bar with a chisel type end did it.
Smacked the plastic off of the end and gave it all a brute force pull down.
Cleaned up the area and installed the new one, started her up and waited 5 mins, closed the doors and it lifted to standard height.
Tomorrow morning I will put the other rear on. Looks like next week for the fronts then. Hoping for more fair weather.
Thanks for the tips guys.
Smacked the plastic off of the end and gave it all a brute force pull down.
Cleaned up the area and installed the new one, started her up and waited 5 mins, closed the doors and it lifted to standard height.
Tomorrow morning I will put the other rear on. Looks like next week for the fronts then. Hoping for more fair weather.
Thanks for the tips guys.
Musicmaker
Active Member
I've still to replace my rears. When doing the front springs I found it easier to remove the arch liners, otherwise I would have been all day fitting in the small retainer clips (arthritis)
PS, the bottom pin is secured with a bolt
PS, the bottom pin is secured with a bolt
gazzab79
New Member
I've still to replace my rears. When doing the front springs I found it easier to remove the arch liners, otherwise I would have been all day fitting in the small retainer clips (arthritis)
PS, the bottom pin is secured with a bolt
You dont need to completely remove the liners, I just levered it out of the way with a bar.
JamesBB
Active Member
Some pics of the old springs......
I think they maybe were the originals. Marked Land Rover and Made in Britain.
The 3rd pic shows the top pin that was rusted to extreme........
The good news is both rears are done and seemed to inflate.
Thanks for all the hints and for Datatek's "how to"....
I think they maybe were the originals. Marked Land Rover and Made in Britain.
The 3rd pic shows the top pin that was rusted to extreme........
The good news is both rears are done and seemed to inflate.
Thanks for all the hints and for Datatek's "how to"....
Attachments
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StuckAgainSteve
Well-Known Member
Who said the rears are easier?
Minus a trip to the shop and lunch it has been 2.5 hours and I have the bottom end of 1 spring off.
Top just partially snapped in situ. The inner side rusted solid and stopping me pulling it out. Chisel has helped, being very careful with the air lines..... Need a longer chisel now though.........
You must have the old metal-cased springs that can corrode in. I did mine 20 mins per side with a pair of long-nosed pliers, a screwdriver and an old wire coat-hanger. (plus jack and axle stands of course.)
JamesBB
Active Member
Well a quick update. I got one front spring on, I have come to a sudden stop with the other front. Basically I cannot get the bleedin wheel off.... Last guys to take it off was back in Oct when the main ball joints were all replaced. They must have over tightened it with the air line. All but 1 nut have loosened. I will take it up to the local tyre fitter and see if he will loosen it for me.
Other than that, I have been up to a lot of other things and got more planned but it sounds like a rainy weekend ahead.
Other than that, I have been up to a lot of other things and got more planned but it sounds like a rainy weekend ahead.
tomcat59alan
Well-Known Member
You've got a coat haven't you?
You would never make a living fitting them that's for sure 
