Funonthefarm
Active Member
Thanks for the advice, with the Richards construction, in terms of “heavier” do you mean thicker steel? Just wondering if this may last a longer?
Retroanaconda
Well-Known Member
Yes, thicker steel. I think they used to do several options of thickness too.
Would last longer yes, though I wouldn’t see that as an issue as given that a non-galvanised chassis will do 25 years easily a galv one of any thickness should last long enough for anyone.
Would last longer yes, though I wouldn’t see that as an issue as given that a non-galvanised chassis will do 25 years easily a galv one of any thickness should last long enough for anyone.
Funonthefarm
Active Member
True enough! Thanks for the info. I saw in your profile you are sw Scotland, I’m that area also.
eprothe
Member
Hello,
I'd go for it - re-chassis and rebuild it.
I replaced the chassis and bulkhead for galvanised on mine about four years ago...a word of warning, though - I also ended up replacing the seat-box, all the bushes, all the chassis brackets, the roof, the dampers, the steering-box, most of the interior...the list goes on. I also replaced every single bolt I took out for a stainless equivalent from LRM and I stopped adding up the bills about half-way through.
It's very hard, when you've got it all stripped down and you've spent ages cleaning and painting bits, to then bolt back on rusty old rubbish with rusty old bolts - if you can, you've got more self-control than me! I managed to strip and rebuild my Defender 110 in about 18 months, working on it every night and most weekends - I could probably have done it quicker if I'd just started out with an angle-grinder rather than a socket-set on the strip down
Good luck with it!
I'd go for it - re-chassis and rebuild it.
I replaced the chassis and bulkhead for galvanised on mine about four years ago...a word of warning, though - I also ended up replacing the seat-box, all the bushes, all the chassis brackets, the roof, the dampers, the steering-box, most of the interior...the list goes on. I also replaced every single bolt I took out for a stainless equivalent from LRM and I stopped adding up the bills about half-way through.
It's very hard, when you've got it all stripped down and you've spent ages cleaning and painting bits, to then bolt back on rusty old rubbish with rusty old bolts - if you can, you've got more self-control than me! I managed to strip and rebuild my Defender 110 in about 18 months, working on it every night and most weekends - I could probably have done it quicker if I'd just started out with an angle-grinder rather than a socket-set on the strip down
Good luck with it!
Funonthefarm
Active Member
Thanks for the encouragement! I was going to start a thread in the rebuild as a step by step. I just need to chose a chassis!!!Hello,
I'd go for it - re-chassis and rebuild it.
I replaced the chassis and bulkhead for galvanised on mine about four years ago...a word of warning, though - I also ended up replacing the seat-box, all the bushes, all the chassis brackets, the roof, the dampers, the steering-box, most of the interior...the list goes on. I also replaced every single bolt I took out for a stainless equivalent from LRM and I stopped adding up the bills about half-way through.
It's very hard, when you've got it all stripped down and you've spent ages cleaning and painting bits, to then bolt back on rusty old rubbish with rusty old bolts - if you can, you've got more self-control than me! I managed to strip and rebuild my Defender 110 in about 18 months, working on it every night and most weekends - I could probably have done it quicker if I'd just started out with an angle-grinder rather than a socket-set on the strip down
Good luck with it!
I'm re chasseing my 1996 90 at the moment and I would recommend budgeting 3x the chassis and labour costs for the bits you will find when work commences
this is a conservative estimate as you will probably want the bulkhead, seat box etc attending to as well as suspension and gearboxes, hub bearings, stub axles, swivels etc etc etc
this is a conservative estimate as you will probably want the bulkhead, seat box etc attending to as well as suspension and gearboxes, hub bearings, stub axles, swivels etc etc etc
payydg
Well-Known Member
We always like pics. Where in Scotland are you?
Funonthefarm
Active Member
Do you mind sharing your reasoning? Very interested in the Richards one
Funonthefarm
Active Member
South west Galloway area
Looked at Marsland but research showed some rework is often required, Holes filled with Galv, brackets not aligning fully, also looked at Shielder but was discouraged by feedback on here and other peoples experiences, Workshop I use have re chassis many defenders and as a coincidence they only recommend Richards, arrived when it should and only minor re threading required
dag019
Well-Known Member
The heavier construction was a bonus for me but the ability to have the older style rear cross member was the real winner. The later td5 style is not as strong if you want to mount a nato hItch. Also I would have needed to buy a new tow bar setup
Funonthefarm
Active Member
Super thanks guys very helpful. On the marsland are all the rails the same across the 90 chassis?
and you are saying Richards is a little more substantial in general?
and you are saying Richards is a little more substantial in general?
Funonthefarm
Active Member
Hi all, so needing to buy a chassis in the coming days, but came across this one on Bearmach - anyone got experience of them? https://bearmach.com/full-galvanise...able-for-defender-90-td5-vehicles-kvd100330hd
