P38_Ireland

Well-Known Member

• Nov 3, 2012

• #1

Hi Lads

Just been reading up on getting a bulkhead galvanized and have seen conflicting information. some seem to say that if its done too quickly it can warp the bulk head others say its ok if you weld some bars and drill holes to allow the fluid to escape after the dipping.

:monitor_punch: what to do??

 

C

craigyb

New Member

• Nov 3, 2012

• #2

It's the heat that warps it I'm told that if you get them to hold the bulkhead above the tank to warm it up before dipping it will lessen the warping. Was going to get
Mine done but decided against it

 

Boris113

Well-Known Member

• Nov 3, 2012

• #3

Go with the galv option, plenty of people have done it with no problems, you just need to brace it properly so that it doesn't warp. If you are particularly concerned, you could get it cold zinc sprayed. That wouldn't cover the insides though.

 

tacr2man

Well-Known Member

• Nov 3, 2012

• #4

If the galv firm is a good one then you wont have any probs , its how they warm and cool it that causes the problems .
I got mine double dipped , and the only difficult part was clearing the dash vent mounting tubes , as they were full of zinc , also you have to clean all the sealant off beforehand . HTSH

 

XRIZLAX

Active Member

• Nov 5, 2012

• #5

hi guys, i work at a galvanising plant and sometimes stuff we dip does warp. usually longer items with welded bits running down. we dip the chassis from richards chassis, but ive not seen a bulkhead dipped.
we preheat items in the flux tank prior to dipping, but its only 70 degrees or so, the zinc bath is 450 ish.holes are needed to allow air to escape,and then to drain the zinc.trapped air rapidly heats/expands and if trapped can explode sending molten zinc flying :clap2: and a loud bang.
as a bulkhead has inner channels etc its a slow dip to allow all the air to escape and then zinc to drain.
i wouldnt weld a brace to stop any warpage as this would cause a mess when grinding off the brace.you would have bits not galved.
have i done my bulkhead? nope.
would i? you bet.
iam planning a total rebuild in 2014, and believe me, anything that i can galvanise i will.
oh, and to anyone thinking about getting anything dipped, heres something to think about.
if its still got paint on, dont worry, a pre-dip in the galv bath will fetch off the paint,but try and get as much crap off before you take yourbits, then it goes through the acid and flux before a final dip in the zinc.
also try going to your local gav plant on a weekend, ahem, when there,s no gaffers around, you might just get your stuff dipped for a couple of quid and a bag of sweets.

 

Tonks4x4

Active Member

• Nov 6, 2012

• #6

I have had lots of bulkheads done and they have all come back pretty good.

A few hints and tips.....

Remove the grill screens from behind the vent flaps as if you don't they come back solid.
If yours are the welded in version cut them out and see if you can get the older rivet in type.

File out all the little square holes that the plastic fixings clip into.
Don't take to much out, just a little on each side. So when it comes back from Galv you don't have to file as much out.

Where the pins for the vents fit and where the bonnet hinge slots in can be a pain as they tend to fill up.

Any aluminium rivnuts melt out in the process so be prepared to fit new ones where required.

Use a blow torch and wire brush to burn out as much seam sealer as possible before sending for blast and Galv

Sometimes you can end up with runs in the Galv just where you don't want them!

They can be lightly ground back but obviously if you go to far you will be back down to steel.

 

R

Rockwood

New Member

• Nov 6, 2012

• #7

Have a galvy ashtree unit on my truck. Fitted to chassis easily. Now to bolt up the rest of the truck.
A second one didn't bolt up easily at all. Something happened in manufacturing it but customer happy

 

Shifty1962

Well-Known Member

• Nov 6, 2012

• #8

XRIZLAX said:

hi guys, i work at a galvanising plant and sometimes stuff we dip does warp. usually longer items with welded bits running down. we dip the chassis from richards chassis, but ive not seen a bulkhead dipped.

Click to expand...

Mate I've been looking for a hot dip galvanisers somewhere in Surrey for years with no success. Internet and asking at local fabricators has come up with nothing. Any ideas?

I'm hoping I cant see for looking and somebody will know a place down south (to save mileage) as all the advertised galvy works seem to be up your way. I dont want to post my bits and bobs and would rather take them in person as it would be cheaper.

 

The Mad Hat Man

Well-Known Member

LZIR Despatch Agent

• Nov 6, 2012

• #9

I may have a contact for you. Will pm you laters.

 

L

Litch

Well-Known Member

• Nov 6, 2012

• #10

"I dont want to post my bits and bobs and would rather take them in person as it would be cheaper."

That was always my concern but after I had my first lot of parts done at a place 50-miles from me (East Anglian Galvanising in Sawtry) I found it wasn't an issue as their prices are so reasonable anyway.
When I had my first batch done I had budgeted about £100-£150 (Ashtree had quoted me more than twice that) but when I paid the bill it was £45 inc VAT! Since then I have been back again and never even asked about cash payments as I have been so pleased with the price on the invoice.

Bulkhead being done next spring.
Transport is the biggest problem as with the bulkhead off I can't take it in the LR and it won't fit in my wife's Freelander however EAG have quoted £50 for collection & delivery and I am more than happy with that. Obviously I would like to see it before I accept delivery so I will pop up on the bike when it is done to make sure it is ok and then let them bring it down to me.

 

P38_Ireland

Well-Known Member

• Nov 8, 2012

• #11

Well i took the plunge today, got the bulkhead shot blasted and dropped it up to a massive plant where they told me it would be put in to a jig and dipped twice just to get rid of all the impurity's like plastic clips etc that might not have come out €25 a dip, so €50 in total. Bargain or at least i think so!

 

Tonks4x4

Active Member

• Nov 9, 2012

• #12

I take it that you made the repairs to the a pillar before you took it for Galv?

Also if you get a blow torch and a wire brush to remove more of that seam sealer as is very very thick on the engine bay side in places up to 3/4".

Dipping still may not remove it all.

 

matchmetisse

New Member

• Nov 9, 2012

• #13

I had ours done at a place in dudley, west mids, they charged a standard £90, but talking to the lads doing the job it could have been done cheaper if i had just drove round to them!they even offered me a 110 chassis that had never been picked up.i a m now fitting the doors on the 90 and there is a bit of distortion but nothing a bit of fettling wont sort.