Hi guys,
I have a RRclassic 94 200 Tdi...with gearbox problems!
For anyone in a similar position to myself (whos not a real expert!) this is what ive done so far and how ive done it, hopefully it'll aid ure decision making if your weighing up what to do as having got as far as I have now to find its a deeper problem, I should have just gone with the replacement box in the first place rather than digging for the repair hoping I can get away with it.

Right, this is what the problem is, for a while now Ive been without 5th gear, just driving along and it went! Havent bothered to do anything about it untill now where i really need it as Im going abroad. (WAS going abroad!) There is no evidence of 5th being blocked or jammed. So when i got a few days off started digging hoping that it would be someting simple like selector fork gone or something as I was told 5th gear on this box was on the end accessible when u take off the transfer box.

Took about 2/3 hours to get to the gearbox!! Had to take off both prop shafts, the last 2 sections of the exhaust pipes, the handbrake, and of course the mighty transfer box. (PIC 91) Someone said taking off the transfer box wasnt to bad and u could lay underneath it taking the weight of it and lift off.....uve got to be a nutter to do that! It actually wasnt too bad getting it off, the nuts all came off ok. The box won't slide off the end in the position its in as it fouls with the body so we used a jack underneath the crossmember, undid the crossmember bolts and lowered it (u can get away with leaving the chasis mounts attached to the transfer box) so the whole drivetrain was angled down enough to prise off the transfer box onto some soft cushioning on the ground. (before u take all the bolts off do make sure you drain the oil!)

Oh yes, before u lower it dont forget to attack the gearbox from inside the car (like we forgot). Not only could you possibly save yourself a whole morning by venturing down this way first as the problem may be something obvious like metal blocking the shifter, you need to remove the gearsticks in order for it to be lowered otherwise it aint goin anywhere and u could do some damage! (PIC 90 + 92)

Back to the box; finally having access to the rear of the gearbox is where the fun mad started. Undoing a few bolts round the outside of the next bit of housing saw that free.(again drain the oil before removing! another thing we forgot and th oil started coming out as the box came free) It wont just slide off the end of the mainshaft as there is a circlip which holds an adapter type collar to the oil seal. We lost a lot of skin off our knuckles trying to get this collar thing off! There is a specific tool which clamps round it and screws to pull it out but unfortunately we didnt have that and all the tyre levers and prising we tried had no effect. out came the grinder and hammer and chiself and EVENTUALLY we managed to break it off. Bear in mind if you are repairing or replacing parts, get that tool as this method will no doubt end in u knicking the shaft and where the oil seal rubber sits which could create a leak. (PIC 94)

With that collar free you can pull away th gear housing to show the shaft meeting with the pinions etc. (PIC 96) This is the point where we could have a real look at what was going on. The components looked but obviously with the gears engaged u shouldn't be able to freely rotate the main shaft. With 5th gear engaged the main shaft was rotating. The splines on the main shaft had gone. bugger.

The only reason my mechanic decided to help me and even think about touching a gearbox is because 5th gear is accessible at the rear of the gearbox without having to delve deep into the heart of the gearbox, or worse still getting a crane and taking the gearbox out to do it.

So this is the point im at, ive spent a lot of painstaking time, spent money on the mechanic, am in a fix of what to do next and have just written an essay! Whether I jus bite the bullet and buy a re-con box, or attempt to rebuild/repair the one I have, as far as I know I still will have to take the box off? Plus theres the point of whether there will be a different problem if I just repair it. I think the direction is a reconditioned gearbox.

Does anyone have any thoughts on this? Is a recon box the way forward? Also does anyone know if I can get away with leaving the bell housing where it is and Are all bolts engine side accessible?

Apologies for the long spiel, hope its not a waste of time and someone finds it usefull knowing what I did.

Cheers, Dom

TAKE THIS ANY WAY YOU LIKE-QUIT ****ING AROUND AND REMOVE THE BOX.

Animals


Now we are fully introduced, it is most likely that if you select 5th that the dogs/teeth on the syncro/bulk ring have gone. this would give symptoms you describe. it more likely than the selector splines going-worth checking again

it's a different box but look hear will give you an idea
http://www.landyzone.co.uk/lz/f38/lt85-split-case-rebuild-pics-85773.html

hmmmm i assume you agree then

take the box out, properly, I dont know what you think you are trying to achieve, but I doubt you will!
Split the bell-housing from the engine, take it all out, and decide what to do next.
Personally, I'd be minded to strip the box and recondition it, having taken it half way apart already, but that's me.
I tend to keep my cars a long while, and would figure, the gearbox, being right in the middle of the car and a pain to get at or get out, is ONE bit that's worth being sure about.
Plenty of dead disco's you could salvage a second hand box from, and probably more cheaply than doing a recon.
Probably get an 'exchange' gearbox more cheaply than doing a full, and propper DIY recon, TBH, but then that notion throws up a very big question over such 'cheap' exchance boxes and DOES suggest that they dont have many if any new bits inside them, and in all probability are no more than a take-out from a dead disco blown over with a steam cleaner......
But, funds time and potential life left in the rest of the vehicle, may be a risk you think is worth taking.....
Either which way, you need the whole box out in the traditional manner!

When you have removed the gearbox and checked that you have not damaged the shaft with an angle grinder.

The syncro on most boxes can be checked with a feeler gauge between the taper and cone-there are gearbox overhaul manuals to be found on the Internet.

carefully removing 5th gear without loosing selector springs and ball bearings and examine parts and if needed post photo's for help.

Generally for a gearbox rebuild you will need an air gun/ hydraulic press and plenty of care-Unless you have access to the above I would find another box

yep both good points,

I am going to take the whole shabang out because like you said Teflon, its a pain to get to and I want to be satisfied its ok when it goes back together.
Being a novice at DIY I just like to have a look how things work and see whats goingon in there!
I was going to venture down to Newbury showground this Sunday to try my luck at a second hand gearbox, but again, its probably not a risk worth taking for such an important part as I cant really tell how the internals are by looking at the outside no matter how much of a 'bargain' it is!
So a whip round my mates see if they have any lying about, otherwise its to the LRO pages for one.

Cheers for your input lads