I have found that, along with cavity wax etc is to regularly clean your chassis so that mud doesn’t sit wet in nooks and crannies eating away the metal

K14 said:

why would I weld through waxoyl when it is easily removed with a good scraper

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If you don't put it on in the first place, you won't have to remove it at all.

Waxoyl is pretty old tech, and really too thick to get into problem areas.

If you top up the wax annually you will never need to weld it ever, quick and easy to do if somewhat messy!

As said makes work on the underside a seriously messy affair.

Turboman said:

Waxoyl is pretty old tech, and really too thick to get into problem areas.

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Agreed - Bilt Hamber and Dinitrol do much better products for similar money. Waxoyl used to be good stuff, but IME, not anymore ( Waxoyl can be thinned with white spirit, but this just makes the other products cheaper )

I dinitroled my chassis and bulkhead 3 years ago with dinitrol, got 5l in The chassis and 1.5 in the bulkhead. Topped it up a year ago with a tin of waxoyl I got given.

I endoscoped it the other day to see if I need to top it up again, most bit were covered in dinitrol still but the waxoyl has dried and is hanging down in flakey lumps....

Can’t get dinitrol 3125 in 5l cans anymore so got some dynax s-50 by hilt hamber to use instead.

Outside of my chassis is just painted and I jet ash it regularly, concentrating particularly on the hidden areas where mud sits. I brought and adjustable nozzle for me pressure washer to I can get into every spot.

Also I drilled a 20mm hole either end of the rear wings - inline with the end of the rear x-member where it’s open ended. I rinse the inside of the cross member out regularly with tap water.

I do have some corrosion but have been monitoring it carefully and it’s barely progressed in 6 years by being proactive.

Passenger footwell is another story. Patched that sucker 3 times now. Gonna get a new mig then redo the whole footwell....